Seat Covers
Thanks
Greg
Not hard to make - just made AWESOME patriotic ones for Fathers Day. Know anyone who sews? I've got instructions if you want 'em - the ones I made, I put pocket on back for "stuff" and cup holder big enough for Big Gulp
MUCH nicer now - get LOTS of comments on covers! Hmmmmmmm......now to do a tire cover!!
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Thanks
Greg
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
For example, my measurements were: 46 1/2"w top to thigh, 21 1/2"w seat & back, 27 1/2 top to bottom of fab, 30"w prv-prv. You can use these as a reference - these are the ACTUAL measurements, before the addition of 6"etc.
You also need two (that's one for ea seat) strips of fab 44"x12" for the "skirt" - this is the piece that covers the side and front of your seat, and helps keep it secure. you also need two(one for ea seat) rectangles of 10x6, this will be used to secure the seat through the middle. If you want pockets - mine are 12x12 (14x14) and the large cup holder is 10x6 (12x8). Most fabric that is appropriate for use for the seat covers (durable) comes in 54 - 60 inch width - so graph out 54 and 60 and see how many yards of fab you'll need (I think I bought 3? maybe 4 - but I've got extra)
If this is sounding too complicated, reread it. You're just makin a slipcover - not a quilt LOL I just want to be thorough for you.
Best fabs are: Denim, Twill, Corduroy, fur - ugh, home dec fab (but keep in mind that even though these are usually REAL durable, they are most often dry clean only - ugh). I used tan cord - it matches the interior. Pick a color you like to match - darker is better if you're bringing in dirt. Do you want design on seat front? you can either have someone make you an applique, or just check out garden flags - they come in a variation of sizes, lots of diff pics - they are usually ripstop nylon (durable, weather&fade resistant).
You're gonna want to cut you're fab in the squares that you've measured, and then pin (wrong side out) over seat - this ensures that you get a perfect fit. Start with the large rectangle you'll be using for the main part, and the smaller rectangle you'll be using for the back. You will have lots of excess - this is in case you should make a mistake - better to have too much than too little. Don't worry, you can trim it off!!! Pin it nice and tight around the back rest - then slowly pull off. **Before pulling off** if you are doing pockets, etc - mark location of each while you have cover on seat. Using pencil, center art on front and mark location of pocket and cupholder on back (yes, I know you'll be doing it on the wrong side - but it'll make sense later). If you are adding pockets, cup holder, art - you need to mark your pins. Use a pencil to draw lines between pins on both the front and back - this way you can remove pins, and still be assured you will be able to pin it back together correctly before sewing later.
**If doing pockets, etc. Remove pins. Pin art/applique in designated area on the CORRRECT side(put pins in incorrect side to mark your top& side borders - flip and pin on art - flip and remove orig pins)Sew on with straight or zig zag. For Pocket - first make top hem in pocket - then follow above directions to place in correct location. DO NOT sew straight - make at least one pleat in bottom so you can fit more "stuff" in pocket - if you sew straight, you'll be able to fit a mag - that's it. To sew - fold in edges twice (about 1/4" ea fold) before pinning. to pleat - basically just take your 12" pocketand pin sides at 10", grab middle of pocket (excess fab) and pinch, then - keeping bottom straight, lay down excess. You'll basically have equally overrlapping fab. Make sure to keep pleat straight while making your two folds. For Cup holder - grab a big gulp to use as filler. Take your 12x8 and sew top 12" like you did on pocket - position in spot you choose earlier and pin in place (same folds before pinning), bottom will require SEVERAL pleats, since you've got so much space in holder. Doesn't have to be pretty - just secure**
When done sewing the etc. (or if you didn't) Make a hem of the bottom of your small back piece and sew - then sew front and back together.You'll have to repin if youdid etc. Turn right side in and try it on your seat - should be perfect fit. Now, the part of the seat cover that you'll actuall SIT on needs to be tucked into the middle some (maybe 1-2"). Tuck it in and either use a small pencil to mark the tuck line, or run your fingers across it several times(tuck in and while fingers are still in mid of seat, move your hand side to side several times) most fab will hold this impression long enough for you to pull out the tuck, and mark with pins the line your hand created. You are going to sew your 10x6 rectangle here (10 is width) with straight & zig zag (for extra strength) (don't worry about hemming 10x6 - you can zig edges to stop fray in case of washing) When you've finished seat - this 10x6 will be pulled through the middle, it will keep seat cover in place.
So remove seat cover and sew on the 10x6.
Now fold seat cover in half length wise - mark your half point. take your 44x12 "skirt" and find 22 - pin 22 to half of seat (wrong sides showing). Continue pinning around each side (this skirt will protect your seat cover, your seat and keep it in place). Sew. Use 1"-1 1/2" wide elastic. Put seat cover on seat - most of this 12" skirt can remain, but on sides you will want to trim to about 6". Make your cuts while it's on seat (doesn't have to be perfect) Remove from seat - stretch elastic completely, and sew to bottom of your 44 edge.
Put seat cover on - using 1/8" (baby) elastic, you need to make loops. From the center, left and right of that 10x6 through-the-middle piece. Cut three strips of the elastic - 4" long (2" loops) and hand sew onto R, M, L of 10x6. Now take elastic to mid of your elastic on skirt - hold tightly to skirt and stretch 1'8 elastic UNDER seat through to M loop - keep hold of how much you need to reach loop (you want it STRETCHED tight - M loop stretched too), double and sew loop onto elastic skirt. Now take 1/8 elastic and stretch from L side of skirt, around seat and "lift" handle to L loop (again, make sure both loop and straight are STRETCHED) - now double and sew loop to L side elastic skirt - repeat for R side. To connect the loops together - M&M, R&R, L&L, use small S hooks (or, if you have none - picture hangers work, ask me how I know
You're done!!TIPS!! Sew with T8 thread - T2 is too light duty!
If your seats getting worn - is it needing some padding too? Add a little foam to this - just get some 1/2"-1" foam (you've got enough excess fab that you shouldn't need to alter mesurements). You need only foam to fit your measurements of the seat itself, not back or skirt. Make sure you've got your foam on the seat when you do your original pinning - so you don't make it too tight. Foam should not move once you've got seat cover on - but if you find it does, just stitch it to seat cover (I would suggest NOT doing this unless you have to - it will affect the washability of your covers to have foam attached)
Pinning - Use long quilt pins. They've got a big head and they're long - good for this kind of pinning.
If you don't sew, and no one you know does - let me know. I could maybe be persuaded - I try to stay busy

Also - if you've got a sweetie and ya'll like to hold hands - but the middle console is too solid - you could make a small square foam pillow to rest your hands. Sew velcro to pillow, and sticky back velcro on console - and it'll stay in place - and you can remove it easily.
Too give extra strength to all the threads and cuts - apply "Fray Block". It is a clear liquid that is washable, dries clear - and prevents fraying and protects threads - made by June Tailor, and available EVERYWHERE. Apply it to every seam and cut you made - let it dry before putting seat covers back on. When ii first dries, it's a little hard - but with each washing it gets softer.
Like I said - let me know if you've got any ?s - it really isn't hard once you read it over again. I just didn't want to leave anything out.



Good Luck