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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 10:12 PM
  #1  
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Alignment or tire wear

This Friday I will be sitting in the stealership gettin my girl aligned, I have to do it every 5000 miles or my tires start cupping bad, yes I have hankook mt tires and I know they are more likely to cup than a at or ht but 5000 miles for alignment doesn't seem good, and I try and baby it not hit curbs or big bumps mainly highway travel any idea, I also have a problem with it wondering left them right goin down the road everything seems tight, the steelership says that this is normal ? Any insite
 
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 10:22 PM
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The dealer will only go with factory alinement spec's. If your front end is all good it should track straight. I'd go somewhere else, they can correct your problem if you tell them what it is. Hows your shocks? I left mine on for 130,ooo miles so they did that. As soon as I changed them all was well. Some tires cup way easier then others, I run michilen and get 70K out of a set. I have CC LB 4x4 7.3L stock height.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 10:38 PM
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What do you mean factory alignment specs is there a better spec it should be set at
 
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 11:49 PM
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Vip offers lifetime alignments, I think I paid $209. 4x4 dually.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by dmanshane
What do you mean factory alignment specs is there a better spec it should be set at
Changes in alignment specs are needed when you vary from stock tires and/or rim sizes. Changes in width or wheel offset can need less camber to properly "wear" a tire. Mine is set "fairly flat" (slight camber) and toe-in is ~ 1/32". I get good wear and drivability with its settings. I feel the factory specs are too broad of a range. Most alignment shops check them and if it's in that range, "call it good". I prefer to set them to my personal specs and try to be a little more precise. I used to do alignments with the old "bubble type" Snap On alignment machine over 20yrs ago. I did my last alignment with a level and a tape measure.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by mueckster
Changes in alignment specs are needed when you vary from stock tires and/or rim sizes. Changes in width or wheel offset can need less camber to properly "wear" a tire. Mine is set "fairly flat" (slight camber) and toe-in is ~ 1/32". I get good wear and drivability with its settings. I feel the factory specs are too broad of a range. Most alignment shops check them and if it's in that range, "call it good". I prefer to set them to my personal specs and try to be a little more precise. I used to do alignments with the old "bubble type" Snap On alignment machine over 20yrs ago. I did my last alignment with a level and a tape measure.
There's an alignment shop here in PC that everyone recommends. Everytime I drive by its just a small carport and a lean to with some wrenches and jacks underneath. No lift or alignment machine. I haven't used them because I'm afraid they only use a piece of chalk, level, and a tape, but I know deep down they'd probably do it right...
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 08:54 AM
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Never discount the power of the MkI eyeball and a plumb or level. I was working on a very long machine that was being extended. We had to draw a centerline extending out from the existing center of the machine. One of my coworkers neglected to bring the laser and it was holding us up. I grabbed a plumb and we "roughed in" a center line so we could start work and adjust as needed when the laser arrived. After going through all the gyrations of aligning thousands of dollars worth of sophistcated hardware, the laser confirmed our plumb line was dead on... 60 feet from the end of the machine.

Ya just gotta know whatcher lookin' fer.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 08:58 AM
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A light bulb should have went off in your head that there is something else going on if you have to have your front end aligned every 5,000 miles.

The stealership is stealing your money.... er... (re)-aligning your truck, but the underlining problem is still there.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 09:42 AM
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I have NEVER taken my truck to a shop for alignment. For that matter none of my cars (Porsche 928, RX8, Mini Cooper) karts and race cars (Tube frame and open wheel formula cars) ever had a shop of monkies do an alignment.

String, camber gauge, chalk, measuring tape and protractor is all you need.

Assuming ball joints tie rods wheel bearing shocks etc. are up to snuff.

For specs? -1/2 degree negative, All the caster I can get that is even on both sides. Toe is nearly dead straight to 1/16" total toe in. NOTE: hang a big trailer on the back end toe is changed.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 09:46 AM
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where do you measure from when your measuring toe in
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 10:15 AM
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ok so i just measured from the outside lug to outside lug on the front and rear of the tire they bothe measured 77 5/8 inches so it should be perfectly straight.. why are my tires cupping. the front right is just cupping on the outside lugs and the front left is cupping on the inside and outside lugs but not near as much ? what do i do
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 11:33 AM
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are you sure what you are seeing is "Cupping" and not "feathering" ?

HOW TO READ TIRE WEAR

Can you maybe post some pictures of the wear?

have you played wih tire pressure.....if you are running the "door tag" pressure it may be to high for the MTs you are running.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 11:47 AM
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Air pressure?

Does it track straight?

Are the wheels actually pointing straight in relation to rear tires and centerline of the truck?

and lastly what shocks and how old.

Tough to be accurate to 1/32" per side using tread features at the tire face specially when they are worn.
Better to have your youngins hold a yard stick to the sidewall on each side X inches off the pavement and level.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 12:20 PM
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Tires are straight I'm gonna check the trac bar tonight shocks are federated parts store shocks and they are put on bout march 2011 on front
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 12:36 PM
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And what psi should I run in front tires they are rated 10 ply 80 psi I fill them with compressed dry nitrogen
 
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