Does this need patched?
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,257
Likes: 1
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Does this need patched?
I was looking over the cab today, bc the PO is a retard. Noticed some rust coming through the airplane primer on drivers cab corner. Got the wire wheel out and took off the primer. Noticed some pin holes. Do I have to patch it or just fill in the pin holes? This is my first time at body work so go easy on me. I know it's not as bad as some cab corners 
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 948
Likes: 0
From: Central Oregon
Depends on what you want your end product to look like and how long you want it to last. Generally, if you can see that much, there is more waiting to peek through. You could probably shoot some rust neutralizer inside, then fill what you can see and paint. Would probably last several years, depending on your climate.
Just ask yourself if, when you are all done, how upset will you be in 2 or so years if you start seeing bubbles in your paint? Because, if you are like me, you will know where every flaw in your project is and that will be the first thing you look at whenever you walk by.
Just ask yourself if, when you are all done, how upset will you be in 2 or so years if you start seeing bubbles in your paint? Because, if you are like me, you will know where every flaw in your project is and that will be the first thing you look at whenever you walk by.
Elder User
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 728
Likes: 2
From: North Idaho
You will get a better read on the amount of damage if you can get your sand blast nozzle in there and clean the inside surface. Then take your thumb nail and press around all the existing pin hole to see how weak and thin the panel is.
If the panel is fairly solid You can form backing plates that cover the back of the pin holes and use panel bond to cement the backing plates in place, or you can drill the outer panel and plug weld the backing plates in. then coat everything inside with rust neutralizer and a top coat of POR 15. Then re-finish the outside.
After cutting out and repairing all the cancer in my cab I air injected rust neutralizer into every single seam on my cab before the first coats of epoxy primer went on. When I finally start the finish work I intend to go back and seam seal every joint and seam then lay down another coat of epoxy primer.
Gary
If the panel is fairly solid You can form backing plates that cover the back of the pin holes and use panel bond to cement the backing plates in place, or you can drill the outer panel and plug weld the backing plates in. then coat everything inside with rust neutralizer and a top coat of POR 15. Then re-finish the outside.
After cutting out and repairing all the cancer in my cab I air injected rust neutralizer into every single seam on my cab before the first coats of epoxy primer went on. When I finally start the finish work I intend to go back and seam seal every joint and seam then lay down another coat of epoxy primer.
Gary
Believe Nothing
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7,516
Likes: 403
From: W. Central FL.
Don't be so quick to call a PO a retard, at least RE about the rust coming through primer in that location. There is a very good possibility the rust was there unseen or uncovered when he put down the primer. You don't know what is behind that panel. Take an ice pick and tap around various places and I will almost guarantee you the pick will go through in other areas. My SWAG is you'll be replacing a panel. Depending how bad it is, you may clean it up and patch it with filler and have it last a long time.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,257
Likes: 1
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Ray, we are talking about the same retard that welded in the Mustang two front crossmember backwards
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,644
Likes: 55
From: Moro Bay, AR
From looking at your pics, I would not hesitate to replace the panel. Everywhere that you see the darker spots around the holes is an area where the metal is very thin and pretty much all that is left is rust 
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,994
Likes: 3
From: Morgan Hill, CA
Really? I missed that one.
Check it out well before you make any plans. The skills that you've shown us here say that you could do a set of cab corners. I don't know about you, but I don't like taking project vehicles back apart after I've done a ton of work. If it's thick enough you could do a POR job to slow down future rust and fill the pin holes. That could last for years, but you have to poke around the damaged area a little to find out how bad it really is.
Dan
Phantom of the Phorum
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Kentucky
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Do it right and do it once! I'll guarantee the whole area is thin and ready to go thru. Poke hard at each dark spot with an awl or ice pick then put a strong light behind the panel with the shop lights off and see just how bad it actually is. It will be less work to cut out the entire corroded area and replace it all with new metal than to try to weld each pinhole, you'll just blow thru the thin metal, warp it beyond repair and grind thru trying to flatten the welds.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,603
Likes: 44
Welcome to the wonderful world of cab corners hood lips etc. Thats not
bad, how about making the last truck payment and the rear fender lips
already bubblin?? We got four F350s and every bloody one already needs
the mig. What I gotta do take these things to bed with me.
bad, how about making the last truck payment and the rear fender lips
already bubblin?? We got four F350s and every bloody one already needs
the mig. What I gotta do take these things to bed with me.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Unfortunately that's what happens when you cover over corrosion rather than cut it out, it soon shows up again, and is usually more expensive to repair the second time. If there was an easy or miracle fix we'd all be driving our trucks rather than working on them!
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,094
Likes: 654
From: Brentwood, TN
I wouldn't think twice about replacing that panel...if you don't get rid of the bad metal now then you will become the PO that you are now cussing. Here is a pic of the panel I recently installed on my 56. I mention it because I wanted to emphasize the point that you can cut down the repair panel so that you only replace the bad area on your cab. Start cutting out the thin metal and stop when you hit solid panel...then cut your repair panel to size.