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2001 F250 7.3l turbo diesel. Motor acted like it ran out of fuel-and then no start. discovered oil reservoir in front of fuel filter was not full of oil, i attempted to fill it up and realized that the oil was going directly into oil pan. could this be the cause of engine not trying to start? and if so why would oil not stay in reservoir?
please help. At the same time i discovered the electric fuel pump on from under driver side does not come on when trying to start. I ran a jumper wire to run it and pressurize and get fuel to the filter. Checked all fuses several times-they are all good. Totally Baffled!!! Any ideas would be great! thanks~salena
You must have oil pressure...High Pressure Oil Pump.....for the injectors to fire. This is different than engine oil pressure. Not sure why it would run back to the pan unless the high pressure pump is bad.
My good friend who worked on 7.3s at the dealership for a decade says that check valve in the bottom of the reservoir can fail. He said he's seen a few. They are a PITA to fix...
It is possible this could be your problem. I'm about to replace my fuel pump. It is tired and not keeping up pressure on hard acceleration.
If your check valve failed, it is part of the front cover. You need to pull the reservoir and HPOP to get at it. It is right next to the unserviceable plug on the bottom of the HPOP on driver's side. Very rare for it to fail, but it does happen.
hope you dont mind if i pick your brain. the plug for IPR has one hot leg and assume the other is ground. is this ground controlled by PCM? I had an issue with glow plugs not working- found it was not getting ground at relay, so i put a momentary switch for ground to temp. correct that issue and now that works. Does the PCM control all of these grounds? and could this be my problem. If so, what would be the easiest way to check it?
Your 2001 does not have any check valve in the reservoir or front cover so don't bother looking for it. The anti drain back check ball (short circuit check ball) is in the block. It won't cause your engine to shut down. The HPOP reservoir has a stand pipe that drains to the pan...if you fill it up enougn, it will fill your pan. The oil level should be about 3/8" from the top so stop when you get to that point.
A faulty IPR (Injection Pressure Regulator) coil can cause the engine to shut down but it won't cause your fuel pump to shut down.
The PCM controls the fuel pump. Does your Wait To Start light come on? If not, then suspect bad power to the PCM. Do you have a chip. If WTS light works, then check for power at the pump as soon as you turn the key to run. You will have about 20 seconds to check for power until that circuit shuts off. If no power at the pump, then check your fuel cut off enertia switch located in the passenger front kick panel...there should be a hole in there to find and reset the switch.
hope you dont mind if i pick your brain. the plug for IPR has one hot leg and assume the other is ground. is this ground controlled by PCM? I had an issue with glow plugs not working- found it was not getting ground at relay, so i put a momentary switch for ground to temp. correct that issue and now that works. Does the PCM control all of these grounds? and could this be my problem. If so, what would be the easiest way to check it?
The IPR receives a pulse width modulated signal so you will need to set your meter to a dwell setting to see the value. Should be around 10-15% when key on and ready to start.
Your 2001 does not have any check valve in the reservoir or front cover so don't bother looking for it. The anti drain back check ball (short circuit check ball) is in the block.
This is what I was talking about, but obviously my terminology was wrong. Sorry about that...and thanks go to Greg for setting it straight.
Try unplugging your fuel bowl heater and then checking all the fuses. Fuel bowl heater plug is on the back lower part of the fuel bowl. I was getting momentary shorts in mine. I would get stumbles in running for quite a while until the fuse finally blew and it also takes out the fuel pump, the fuel pump is on the same fuse. You don't really need the fuel bowl heater. Mine has been unplugged for 2 years. Good luck.
This is what I was talking about, but obviously my terminology was wrong. Sorry about that...and thanks go to Greg for setting it straight.
At one time there was some sort of valve in the front cover but that design was revised prior to the '99 SD introduction. Same for the IPR drain routing. Even if the IPR hangs open, there is no way for the reservoir or HPOP oil to drain back to the pan. The early years may have had that issue but our trucks do not.
I will attach some tech sheets with that info...
At one time there was some sort of valve in the front cover but that design was revised prior to the '99 SD introduction. Same for the IPR drain routing. Even if the IPR hangs open, there is no way for the reservoir or HPOP oil to drain back to the pan. The early years may have had that issue but our trucks do not.
I will attach some tech sheets with that info...
Because of glow plug relay not getting ground from PCM the fuel pump not working and the WTS light NOT coming on I'm convinced that its a bad PCM. I have checked all fuses and relays. Is there only one PCM (under driver side dash) there is a chip that has a selection screen that says the PCM is not responding. Or am I missing something? Now when I try to start the relays just click- no power to solenoid from ignition. (This is a new issue) every day it's something new even when I haven't touched it. Thanks~ Salena
Because of glow plug relay not getting ground from PCM the fuel pump not working and the WTS light NOT coming on I'm convinced that its a bad PCM. I have checked all fuses and relays. Is there only one PCM (under driver side dash) there is a chip that has a selection screen that says the PCM is not responding. Or am I missing something? Now when I try to start the relays just click- no power to solenoid from ignition. (This is a new issue) every day it's something new even when I haven't touched it. Thanks~ Salena
What kind of chip do you have? If that thing comes loose while driving it could cause all the problems you describe. It is also possible the switcher cable has come loose. I recommend you remove the negative battery cables before you do anything further (disconnect both negative cables on both batteries)