My thinking was that one of the wheels were trying to pull straight causing the other to push the truck to the right. So if the pass wheel was trying to go straight,,, then the driver wheel might be toe in,, or if the driver wheel was the one trying to go straight, then that would mean the pass wheel would be toe out. I did some adjusting,, then rolled the truck back n forth n it seemed like the driver wheel was the one trying to go straight. ??????

 

Ok guys,,, u both know what ur talking about. Both more than me. Lol. I'm trying to take a common sense approach,,, but my common sense must b uncommon. Lol. Cause it ain't working. I'm gonna stop n a bit n measure the wheelbase.

 

Did you try swapping tires side to side? A tire with weird belting etc can cause pulling.

Josh

 

I haven't,,, I will try that. I also want to take off the centramatics n see if the ride is worse neways.

 

Agree with swapping tires side to side, like I said I just picked up a pull to the left by rotating tires. Also interested in a review of your Centramatics. I can't get tires to balance on my truck for anything, two sets now and the all seem to vibrate at different speeds and worse on different road surfaces than others. Bugs me no end.

Brian

 

Castor is a British term, I'm Canadian and I spell things with proper British English... It is indeed caster out in the rebellious colonies...

However you spell it, I think you are under minimum spec. I was able to find a spec for F250/F350 4WD, but id didn't have specifically for 2006 model year. It was negative 3.5 degrees, plus or minus 2 degrees, max difference side to side 1 degree. So at neg 1.1 degrees you are under minimum spec.

Edit: Don't worry about your rear axle, the alignment readout shows that your axle is in pretty much the right place, a little positive toe on one side and negative toe on the other side means it is canted marginally from dead square, but not much.


Brian

 

Cool!!! Thx Brian. I know the adjustment sleeves have the hole for the upper BJ off center. Could I just spin the sleeve to adjust it??? If I'm understanding correctly, the caster is side to side??? Camber is in n out??? Can you tell which side needs to go forward on the top? Does negative mean forward, or backwards???

 

Also,,, the caster numbers on the readout should've been addressed huh?? That's upsetting that both shops pushed me out the door when I am out of spec. And the rear axle being toe in n out??? I'm trying to follow those numbers but wtf???? Lol. You lost me. Lol. Can you explain in dummy terms??? Like top of driver tire needs to go forward,,, ect. Lol. I can do all the adjustments,,, just can't figure out if negative is forward or backwards.

 

Yes, the adjusting sleeves spin. Castor is front/back, camber is sideways and the sleeves affect both. Ignore camber and maximize castor with the top of the hub/tire leaning backwards, in the simplest terms. Think of a bicycle fork that slants backwards towards the handle bars. Aftermarket sleeves are available to increase the range of adjustment. Try for at least 3 to 4 degrees of positive castor (caster for y'all, equal opportunity speller...) Ignore the numbers on the rear axle, they are showing fine. I would have asked for the front castor to be addressed in the alignment shop, knowing that castor of 3.5 degrees positive is midpoint in the designed range of what is acceptable, but if you don't know that stuff, you don't know what to ask for or challenge.

I had a Chev truck brand new once, around 1996, that would change lanes if you got on the brakes hard. The entire front brake system was changed under warranty, no change to the problem. My sister was an engineer with GM then, I got her involved, they said to take it to an aftermarket alignment shop, have castor adjusters installed (it was not adjustable stock) and do an alignment to max spec positive castor. Fixed it right up, for a brand new truck...

Brian

 

Here's a video

 

I finally read through this whole thread and you've got a couple excellent and knowledgeable experts on alignment giving you good advice.

But what bugs me, just common sense wise: is this problem either happened when you were rear-ended, and I don't see the correlation to the front, other than now it's been messed with. Or, you got new tires around the time of the accident and now have a radial pull. Have you put tires on say 20k ago Anthony?

Otherwise, I have to believe it's related to the frame/rear end. Sorry, I just don't see a change in the front due to the accident. Any possibility the rear frame is not tweaked side-ways, but rather in a twist?

ok my $.02, back to your regularly scheduled experts...

 

The ins company is giving me a cold shoulder. I'm gonna have to take them to court to get any resolution.

But yes Dan,, Brian and Josh chime ing in here is great. I've been calling around to alignment shops in kc. It really sounds like I've got a caster issue. Maybe Sean can chime in with the alignment info specs for me. I'd really like to just have a shop give me a printout n I will do the adjustments n tell them when I'm happy. The info I've gotten here definitely gives me insight to where the caster should be, which if i understand correctly, it should be as far forward as the spec calls for +(3.5 deg). And I'm understanding the toe on our trucks should be dead center.

But should the camber be to the left a bit to allow for the road??

 

Anthony i feel for you after being let down by alighment shops . since tou have had the rear accident many things come into play . mc5 is absolutely correct with all his info. however i encourage you to find a reputable frame shop and have a complete 4 wheel alighment usng laser equipment. or at the least have them do an analysis.most shps use fmc equipment in my area and can shoot visual to computer screen. right and left toe egualize (equal value on both sides) once the truck is in motion however if only one side is adjusted then sterring wheel (box) will be off center causing pull. proper 4 wheeel alighment always works on principle of steering wheel being centered.also because of road crown when checking for pull try driving stradeling both lanes if it pulls then you know you have aproblem.good luck p.s. a diamond frame can offset your rear to front axle but a 4 whell alighment analysis will pick this up

 

Zone offroad adjustable track bar is $100 on amazon. Just got mine today, nice piece

edit: i think its only for 99-04

 

Anthony, A ez way to ck if your frame is diamond is to take a tape measure and measure from the front of the lower ball joint to the bolt on the back of the track bar in the middle of the truck. The measurement shoukd be all most the same (+/- 1/8 inch) then to ck the rear axle take the tape and x measure the truck from the left lower ball joint to the passenger bolt on the axle where it bolts to the spring, then go the other way ( use the same bolt on each side of the axle) and it shoukd be a 1/8. out no more and if it's good find a good front end shop to line it up. I think that's half your problem the shops just want to set the toe and let it go. It's a little work to set a Ford up just right.