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Anyway jump it and let it run a minute. Unhook the cables and watch it for 10 or 15 minutes. If it dies your alternator is bad.
Greg:
Please, do not do this. If it's a Chevrolet, you can do this. Doing this to a Ford will ruin the truck.
Optimal voltage on the battery with the motor running is 14.2 volts.
If your truck has "idiot lights", check to see if the battery light is on while the motor is running. If so, it's either a bad alternator or a burnt up voltage regulator.
A Ford alternator has a diode on the inside that can burn up and cause a battery drain with the vehicle shut off.
Check to make sure your battery clamps and cables are rust free and clean first. Unhook them and clean them, then reinstall and tighten them up.
Hesitation on cranking can be a low battery, failings starter, poor connections, etc. So eliminate basic issues first.
I think he meant unhook the jumper cables, which is fine, not the battery cables, which should never be done on any running vehicle equipped with an alternator.
An alternator needs a battery to regulate the voltage, it doesn't matter the car make. Without the battery to help regulate the alternator voltage you can burn out diodes in the alternator, not to mention wreck voltage sensitive components. If you possibly have a flakey alternator that you're testing then then you're likely to cause even more damage because the issue could be a bad diode to start with. Rev the engine with them disconnected and you could instantly send 35 volts through the electrical system.
The "remove the cable" test is a holdover from the days when vehicles had generators, and it was ok to run it without a battery. Technology changed and some practices needed to change.
Well when i did it we were starting my truck or a different on then putting the dead battery back in. We were 16/17 or so and never thinking to get jumpers to carry. I only thought they had to do quit because some computers wouldnt run without a battery.