E4OD problem
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Ok I went out and cleared the codes and started it up. Manually shifted the gears and all. I can get movement in all gears if I rev to high RPM. Ran codes again....KOEO....452......KOER.....none.....All warning lights are out now so it was low brake fluid.Is the 452 code the sensor on the rearend or the one on the transmission tailpiece? Could this cause why I'm having to hit high RPM to move now?
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My 0.02 USD worth . . .
Originally Posted by Cowboydesperado
Ok I went out and cleared the codes and started it up. Manually shifted the gears and all. I can get movement in all gears if I rev to high RPM. Ran codes again....KOEO....452......KOER.....none.....All warning lights are out now so it was low brake fluid.Is the 452 code the sensor on the rearend or the one on the transmission tailpiece? Could this cause why I'm having to hit high RPM to move now?
Did you change out the MLPS? Could be a bad MLPS telling the PCM you're not in gear. Not likely, but a thought.
Have you tried unplugging the transmission solenoid pack to test for full manual function? Manual low is 1st, manual second is 2nd, D position might be OD, I think. If you have the same problems with the transmission unplugged, the problem lays inside the case.
You said you did not replace the pump. Did you do an internal inspection? To me, that pump is still suspect.
By the way, VSS is on the rear axle. Pull it out, clean the gunk off of it with a rag, check electrical connections. Be careful, you can break it or damage the wires.
Running out of suggestions, here.
Ray
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I put a new VSS in and got same code....KOEO....452. Now get a KOER.....213.....Spout circuit open. Guess it could be a bad EEC/PCM......just getting alot of eratic codes. Also unplugged the solenoid in the trans and it doesn't change a thing. Maybe going to be pulling her out again to take a look at the pump and all internals......damn it....(crying in my hands now)......any other ideas before I go do what I don't want to do?
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From: Central Indiana
I put a new VSS in and got same code....KOEO....452. Now get a KOER.....213.....Spout circuit open. Guess it could be a bad EEC/PCM......just getting alot of eratic codes. Also unplugged the solenoid in the trans and it doesn't change a thing. Maybe going to be pulling her out again to take a look at the pump and all internals......damn it....(crying in my hands now)......any other ideas before I go do what I don't want to do?
Like I've said before, a good manual will tell you which ports are for the forward and direct clutches. Energizing the forward clutch with air and turning the input shaft should make the gearset turn the output shaft. 60 psi should be enough. Should turn fairly easily, too.
I feel for ya. When I worked at Sequoia, this happened from time to time. Give that pump and forward clutch great scrutiny.
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HTH
Tuned
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When it does move, does it feel like it's binding or does it feel like it's slipping?
It could be that it's trying to apply multiple clutch packs at one time OR you could have cut a lip seal and the clutches aren't able to fully engage due to the lack of pressure.
If I were you, that thing would be back on my work bench and I would be air checking every clutch pack possible and verifying proper ball locations in the valve body.
It could be that it's trying to apply multiple clutch packs at one time OR you could have cut a lip seal and the clutches aren't able to fully engage due to the lack of pressure.
If I were you, that thing would be back on my work bench and I would be air checking every clutch pack possible and verifying proper ball locations in the valve body.
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From: Central Indiana
My head hurts!
When it does move, does it feel like it's binding or does it feel like it's slipping?
It could be that it's trying to apply multiple clutch packs at one time OR you could have cut a lip seal and the clutches aren't able to fully engage due to the lack of pressure.
If I were you, that thing would be back on my work bench and I would be air checking every clutch pack possible and verifying proper ball locations in the valve body.
It could be that it's trying to apply multiple clutch packs at one time OR you could have cut a lip seal and the clutches aren't able to fully engage due to the lack of pressure.
If I were you, that thing would be back on my work bench and I would be air checking every clutch pack possible and verifying proper ball locations in the valve body.
He's had the same problem both before and after the rebuild, so that leaves not many things it could be. I'm still leaning toward a bad pump. Volume may not be enough or something is amiss with the forward clutch circuit. The clutch circuits can be tested on the bench using shop air and a rubber-tipped air nozzle.
Pump pressure can be tested with a transmission pressure gauge, using the specs from the manual. One other place to look would be the forward clutch housing. A crack or leak here would cause the symptoms that have been presented.
Man, this one is a real mystery.
Last edited by raystankewitz; Apr 22, 2013 at 08:22 PM. Reason: Falied at a multiple post quote
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Ok i"m still kickin' and we have a solution I think. Pulled it out took valve body off and ran an air check. Forward clutch seal is hissing like a pissed off snake. Noticed there are several seals in the diagrams. Which one would cause the hissing noise? Going to tear it down to get to the seal and go from there.
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From: Central Indiana
Ok i"m still kickin' and we have a solution I think. Pulled it out took valve body off and ran an air check. Forward clutch seal is hissing like a pissed off snake. Noticed there are several seals in the diagrams. Which one would cause the hissing noise? Going to tear it down to get to the seal and go from there.
Two rubber lip seals on the forward clutch apply piston and two sealing rings out of four on the center support would be the possible leak points. I would check the piston first. You'll have to disassemble the clutch completely to do that. Use plenty of vaseline or transmission assembly lube on the seals and ease the piston back into its bore using a loop of .020 piano wire.
I make that tool out of a piece of K&S piano wire folded over but not bent sharp. Make the loop over a pencil to be sure it's not too sharp. Leave the legs about 4" long, put them into a small tube about the size of a pencil and peen the tube flat over the wire. Use the rounded end of the wire to ease the seal home in the bore. Does that make sense?
Ray
