I have a 2003 4x4 and I'll be doing new outer stub axles, new needle bearings in the hub, new u-joints, new hub seals and inner dust seals pretty soon.

I'm thinking I'm so close to those inner oil seals that I might aswell do them too and get a diff fluid change out of it.

I have read as much as I can find on the inner seals but the only bump in the road for me will be the remove / replace of the gears (it's called the carrier is that correct?). I found descriptions of the process which as I read them they sound like something that might be so simple and yet simple to mess up too.

I've never touched the gears in a differential before other than seeing them when I do diff fluid swaps, so as I understand it correctly if I want to remove that big mass of gears then:

I undo 4 bolts ... 2 on the left, 2 on the right. A top and bottom on both sides (is that correct?)

Then the half moon shaped straps (dont know what they are called) come off (is that correct?)

Then I keep track of what bolt went where and which strap and what was up / down etc. (is that correct?)

There are no other things to disconnect such as the driveshaft coming in from the transfer case or any other internal bolts (is that correct?)

Then the gears just come out as one large heavy unit (is that correct?)

I don't need a special tool to get it out (is that correct?)

It might require prying out with a crowbar as a lever (is that correct?)

Chilling it to shrink it so it goes back in easier is a good idea (is that correct?)

It should go back into place without any special tools (is that correct?)

Getting it back in shouldn't take some secret old timers trick that I'll never learn because I wasn't there to see it (is that correct?)

Put the straps back on with the bolts where they came from in the correct orientation, torque correctly (is that correct?)

Then it's just new fluid, new gasket, replace diff cover.

Thanks for any help if you've been in there before.

 

Yes you are correct...The only hitch may be getting it out and in depending how tight it was..I think there is a case spreader tool. Also the seals are a PIA. There is a special tool that expands to install the seals from the inside. Always check the bearings for wear.
Front is usually ok. Rear takes a beating.
Bolts don't matter just the clamps. Up is up left is left don't mix em.

 

Youtube is your friend in this case. The DANA 60 differential has been around for a few decades. There are many videos on tearing them down and rebuilding them. The axles and stuff at the hubs may be different, but the differential is pretty much the same.

 

Like this one



I was hoping for something with a little more finesse.

 

There will be a shim or multiple shims under those caps also. There will also be a bearing race under each cap. Make sure you don't mix them up. Left side stays on the left, and right side stays on the right. Have someone else with you when you pull the differential to watch those parts, as they tend to go flying when the differential case "pops" out. When you reassemble everything, you usually have to gently hammer the last shim in until it's in enough to install the cap, and then draw it in as you tighten the cap bolts.


RON

 

Good info Ron. Thank you.

 

I took my f250 2005 apart as described by "Dave " at this site and now it sits.
made it all the way to pulling axle out and it will not pry out? ?!
feels stuck in the pumpkin?

 

Can't stick in there. Its the seal in the knuckle. Bang the seal out from behind with a screwdriver...You'll need a new one...Other than that 2 big pry bars where the dust seal is near the end of the axle tube.

 

Love that video.
Blair Witch Project and Redneck shop tools.

Already been said but it can't be said too many times.
Parts have to go back where they came from. There are a
lot of loose ones that will fall. Extra set of eyes and
hands are a big help.

Even with a spreader it is hard to remove the carrier.

Sean

 

I ended up cutting a 4 inch piece of pvc pipe 2 inches long and cutting a 2 inch section out of the side and pressing it around the u joint.
Tapped it several times with a ball peen hammer and it was out..
Now the question is what are the white markings for on the new ball joints?
also how bad is it going to be to find ALL the seals? ??

 

You can find the 2 outer seals pretty much anywhere...Was way worse years ago.
Inner seal maybe local also or dealer. Never saw markings on ball joints. Just did mine last week.

 

DriveTrain America

Best prices I found and good people to deal with. When I called the (888) number I got a lower quote on shipping than the default choices on the website.

These parts are for my 2003 6.0 so confirm yours is the same ... or call the company above.


Yellow O-Ring, for between hub and knuckle
FORD F81Z-4A322-AA, SPICER 41784-2


Axle Seal (knuckle seal), Large outer seal
FORD F81Z-3254-CB, SPICER 50491

Dust Seal, Small inner seal
FORD F81Z-1S175-HCA, SPICER 50381


Inner Axleshaft Oil Seal (in at the differential)
FORD 2C3Z-3254-AA, SPICER 52148

 

Ok-- just replaced my dana 60 inner and dust cap seals. The outer floating oil seal doesn't go all the way on the yoke like the old one. So now the wheel bearing/hub two washers with the nut /washer wont let the lock ring go on?

Any body have this problem? I am an old aircraft mechanic and I do work on my own truck so I know it is the national seal 710493 that is the problem. The seal will not go on all the way like the old on even put in my press.

Billy

 

Maybe the attached .pdf. will help you out.

You are talking about the large seal that goes on the outer stub axle, right?
If so, there is a description of a homemade tool you can make to set the seal. I went ahead and bought the OTC tool off amazon.com and it worked perfectly. A couple of real good whacks with a lump hammer set it perfectly and won't let you overdrive it.

 

Over driving is not the problem -- It wont go on all the way
Yes-- but I do have the correct tool to install the seal. It just wont go all the way on either axle. So I think the seal has been sold to me as the right seal but is differant. I'll take one off to morrow and see. I put one side in my press and it just is bottomed out. I have been a mechanic most of my life but I don't know it all! So I thought maybe some one had had the same problem.