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ok so after three months of lookin for and test driving trucks, doing lots of web research and reading. I bit the bullet and bought a used 07 F350 with jus under 100k miles on it everything checked ok on the test drive scan gauge showed all good numbers, nothing negative powertrain wise so I brought her home.. I drove the truck a few hundred miles then took the camper on about a 300 mile round trip and I get back and its pushing coolant out the bottle.
I purchased an extends warranty plan that covers 86% of the truck including head gaskets. so I followed the warranty guidelines and returned the truck to the dealer were I purchased it. they checked it and said my hg's are blown and that warranty should cover it so I said cool. Then I ask them that if I buy the arp studs will they install them under the covered repair and they agreed to, but the service writer told me that he couldn't guarantee that if they failed again under warranty that they would be covered because it was not an OEM part but he also said that he hasn't seen one come back that they have studded.
so here is my question should I spend the 4-500 bucks on studs and possibly void my 2yr 24k mile warranty for future hg problems which are not likely to happen or should I go with stock parts that are known to fail???
the dealer has treated me good so far and I don't believe they sold me a truck with blown head gaskets knowingly, I jus wanted some opinions from guys that no more about this repair than I do. I have to make a decision tomorrow in order to get the parts to the dealer in time to get the repair done.
..... only if the dealer actually checks the heads, and not just for flatness but for cracks. If the head is cracked, they do the reinstall, and it fails again you've just lost the warranty because they did a shade-tree repair. Make sure you get it up front that the heads WILL be correctly checked.
Bryan. can you expand on exactly what a correctly checked head would be. I am going to get a surviving head checked on mine, as the other is in fact cracked. I wish to "correctly" have the other checked while doing arps.
Thank you
.... only if the dealer actually checks the heads, and not just for flatness but for cracks
that's what bothers me.... When I asked about checking the heads correctly the service writer said that they check them per ford spec and they only send them out if they need to be surfaced or they suspect a problem internally with the head. I was taught that any time a head is off you should always send it out and have it pressure checked for cracks and leaks not jus magna fluxed, and re surfaced if needed. I honestly don't feel that I have a cracked head but I can't say that for sure with the proper testing.
Warranty now, studs latter
I hate to pass up a labor free stud job but if its not done correctly then I could lose the warranty. I plan in keeping the miles off the truck and trying to get the full 24 months out of the warranty but I am gonna work the truck that's why I bought it and if it fails again I want it covered
I hate being in this posistion but I'm kinda siding with stock for now then do the repair right my self or pay a trustworthy tech to do it. My truck is currently at a dealer that is about 80 miles out of state so its hard for me to jus drop in and check on the job or lean on them to doing right
Here's an idea, why don't you get an Oasis report on you truck and see if this type of work has been performed on you truck before. That might make your decision a little easier
ok so after three months of lookin for and test driving trucks, doing lots of web research and reading. I bit the bullet and bought a used 07 F350 with jus under 100k miles on it everything checked ok on the test drive scan gauge showed all good numbers, nothing negative powertrain wise so I brought her home.. I drove the truck a few hundred miles then took the camper on about a 300 mile round trip and I get back and its pushing coolant out the bottle.
I purchased an extends warranty plan that covers 86% of the truck including head gaskets. so I followed the warranty guidelines and returned the truck to the dealer were I purchased it. they checked it and said my hg's are blown and that warranty should cover it so I said cool. Then I ask them that if I buy the arp studs will they install them under the covered repair and they agreed to, but the service writer told me that he couldn't guarantee that if they failed again under warranty that they would be covered because it was not an OEM part but he also said that he hasn't seen one come back that they have studded.
so here is my question should I spend the 4-500 bucks on studs and possibly void my 2yr 24k mile warranty for future hg problems which are not likely to happen or should I go with stock parts that are known to fail???
the dealer has treated me good so far and I don't believe they sold me a truck with blown head gaskets knowingly, I jus wanted some opinions from guys that no more about this repair than I do. I have to make a decision tomorrow in order to get the parts to the dealer in time to get the repair done.
thanks
i'd put in the studs and take my chances. you say you are going
with one new head already. if it was mine, i'd probably drop the
dimes on a second head, and be done with it.
two refurbished heads, oem gaskets, and arp studs.... you may
have problems down the road, but i'd bet a cheeseburger that
the heads and gaskets won't be part of it.
just for grins, i googled 6.0 head prices..... and
they came up at $625.... what price will
the dealer charge you for a reman head to match
the one they are giving a warranty on?
Bryan. can you expand on exactly what a correctly checked head would be.
Basically this:
Originally Posted by smoke20
you should always send it out and have it pressure checked for cracks and leaks not jus magna fluxed, and re surfaced if needed.
The best way is to get a machine shop to do the works on it, including the valves, seats, and guides.
The head would probably have to be pretty jacked up to not last 24k after the install, I'd go ahead and have them stud it, just see if you can get it written down up front that they're doing more than poking a feeler gauge around and they'll put in a new head or get it machined if it fails.
jus to clarify that was oldfordstone who said he was replacing a cylinder head
not me
and the dealer told me they won't send them to a machine shop unless the show signs of an internal failure
I don't plan on chipping the truck or running it hard, jus towing campers and my boat a couple of times a month but I know while towing it will be boosting pretty good rather often even stock and from my understanding its high boost that "lifts" the head and stretches the bolts and the studs don't stretch
still not sure what to do, guess I'll sleep on it and make my decision in the morning
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