Never seen one do that before...
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Never seen one do that before...
Finally got the ignition and charging issues sorted out on my 85 F-250 (460 / 4spd) but on my way to work this morning, it showed me a new trick that I have not seen before, on any vehicle. At freeway speed (65-75, the speed of traffic since my speedo doesn't work) my truck randomly shut off several times. Rolling along and I suddenly look down and the tach is laying at 0 and there's nothing. Usually dropping it down a gear and is sufficient to bump start it, but bump starting while going 60 on the freeway in traffic is not my first choice of things to do to get the blood flowing. Think perhaps the ignition switch needs adjusted? Or perhaps a loose ground?
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Just did it to me a few more times on the way home from work. Most of the times I was able to pump the gas while it was rolling in 4th gear and it restarted itself with a healthy back-fire, but once it died completely and I had to coast it off the road and give it a sec before it would restart. Perhaps a fuel delivery issue, since it was still getting spark while rolling but apparently needed more fuel?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 4
Sounds like the ignition module is going out on you. Mine just did this about a week and a half ago. I pulled my old module, stuck in a BWD module, and put in an Accel SuperStock coil on my 300.
You'll want to have your ignition module tested at a parts store to see if it's bad. If not, have them check the coil. If the coil is good, then check the distributor. Replace what's bad.
If you have to replace the ignition module, the aftermarket modules (unless it's OEM Motorcraft, $100+) don't have the spark retard during cranking, so your truck will start a little harder.
You'll want to have your ignition module tested at a parts store to see if it's bad. If not, have them check the coil. If the coil is good, then check the distributor. Replace what's bad.
If you have to replace the ignition module, the aftermarket modules (unless it's OEM Motorcraft, $100+) don't have the spark retard during cranking, so your truck will start a little harder.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 481
Likes: 3
From: Tualatin, OR
Mine did the SAME exact thing. It was in the wiring when the PO wired in an MSD box. It was a bad connection that would work and then cut out. Fought it and fought it. Finally got smart and went back to stock ignition box and checked all wiring and connections. All fixed.
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,560
Likes: 1
the tach reads the ignition signal into the coil, so if the engine is still turning but the tach reads zero, thats a problem in the distributor, module, or wiring.
the fact that it backfired when it came back to life, proves that its an ignition problem and not a fuel problem - unburned fuel accumulated for lack of spark and finally burned all at once when a spark came.
if the tach still gives a good reading when the engine stalls but hasn't stopped yet, then your problem would be in the connections at the coil, the coil itself, plug wires, or distributor cap+rotor.
and remember that new parts are not always good parts
the fact that it backfired when it came back to life, proves that its an ignition problem and not a fuel problem - unburned fuel accumulated for lack of spark and finally burned all at once when a spark came.
if the tach still gives a good reading when the engine stalls but hasn't stopped yet, then your problem would be in the connections at the coil, the coil itself, plug wires, or distributor cap+rotor.
and remember that new parts are not always good parts
Trending Topics
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
I can say with all certainty that the NAPA (Echlin) module I have, does retard while cranking.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
So far, so good. Drove to work this morning after replacing the ignition control module last night and no issues. If it makes it all the way home with no issues this evening, I'll call it fixed.
Many thanks to all who posted advice on this. I'd have to say this is easily the most helpful forum I subscribe to. I've been a member for about a month and have had 3 issues sorted out by you folks. Most forums are full of people who offer no help or advice but rather thrive on their own smug sense of self-importance and would rather be an *** than try to help anyone. Thank you all again.
Many thanks to all who posted advice on this. I'd have to say this is easily the most helpful forum I subscribe to. I've been a member for about a month and have had 3 issues sorted out by you folks. Most forums are full of people who offer no help or advice but rather thrive on their own smug sense of self-importance and would rather be an *** than try to help anyone. Thank you all again.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 4
As has been stated many times on this forum, the enemy of a DSII module is heat. If you want, take some rubber washers and use them to space the module up off the fender well a bit. It lets air flow underneath and help keep it somewhat cool. This is optional.
Huh! That's interesting. I'm going to have to look up the cost for that ignition module and compare that to what I paid for mine. I'm not going to yank mine out and go get the Echlin module, but if this new one goes out, I'm going to find another "new" one with the automatic spark retard.
Huh! That's interesting. I'm going to have to look up the cost for that ignition module and compare that to what I paid for mine. I'm not going to yank mine out and go get the Echlin module, but if this new one goes out, I'm going to find another "new" one with the automatic spark retard.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Many thanks to all who posted advice on this. I'd have to say this is easily the most helpful forum I subscribe to. I've been a member for about a month and have had 3 issues sorted out by you folks. Most forums are full of people who offer no help or advice but rather thrive on their own smug sense of self-importance and would rather be an *** than try to help anyone. Thank you all again.
Thanks for the kudos, the immense knowledge & willingness of people to help is what makes FTE so great.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Happened twice on the way to work this morning. Given that the coil and control module are both new, time to start looking at the distributor and wiring. Is there a way to troubleshoot a distributor to see if its bad or is it just one of those "it works or it doesn't" kinda things?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 6,477
Likes: 19
From: Sheffield, AL
Unfortunately, some "new" electrical components are bad out of the box or do not last long. It may well be your replacement ignition module. That is why it is often suggested to pay extra for the Motorcraft unit. Take your replacement one to the auto parts store and have it checked. Be aware, though, that sometimes the module will check "good" while cold and will act up once up to operating temperatures.
Some have success with getting a used Motorcraft module from the junk yard for just a few bucks.
Some have success with getting a used Motorcraft module from the junk yard for just a few bucks.