CV Axle Replacement
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CV Axle Replacement
Hey all, believe my Expedition may need a new Axle on the drivers side. I've got a slight click that's subtle around sharp turns or when cutting the wheel out of a parking space. Not sure if this has been answered before I did a search and everything was for F250's or Explorers.
My question with Axle's what's worth getting? I'm reading horrible reviews on anything Advanced auto has to offer. And should I replace both at the same time or just the suspect one? There are few other brands I never heard of as well as the Cardone Velocity that Advanced offers, over at Rockauto.
Also I feel as if I have a clunk, or just a sloppy feel when going over entrance lips from parking lots. Like the shock is topping out and hitting the frame on the drives side. Not sure if it's tie rod, shock or sway bar related. Going to replace the sway bar bushings as well when I replace the Axle if that's indeed what's needed.
Thanks in Advance.
2K XLT 4.6L 4WD non air ride.
155K Miles
My question with Axle's what's worth getting? I'm reading horrible reviews on anything Advanced auto has to offer. And should I replace both at the same time or just the suspect one? There are few other brands I never heard of as well as the Cardone Velocity that Advanced offers, over at Rockauto.
Also I feel as if I have a clunk, or just a sloppy feel when going over entrance lips from parking lots. Like the shock is topping out and hitting the frame on the drives side. Not sure if it's tie rod, shock or sway bar related. Going to replace the sway bar bushings as well when I replace the Axle if that's indeed what's needed.
Thanks in Advance.
2K XLT 4.6L 4WD non air ride.
155K Miles
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Sorry I didn't respond sooner my sub to this post didn't go thru. I was thinking the same thing Alloro. I took it to the mechanic that did my alignment they drove it for 20 min, put it on the lift. Checked everything and said everything as far as suspension was good. They put it in 4HI and kept it at 30MPH on the lift. They heard "slapping" coming form the front and rear diffs. They said clutch packs. The truck does sound like a nightmare in 4HI, but what I mentioned first off, does sound like a wheel hub. Problem is the clunk comes from the driver side and the whining wheel bearing sound is stronger on the right, when bouncing off buildings. May just drop it off at the Ford Dealership soon. Thanks for the input guys.
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The slapping noise is normal in this situation because there is no load on the axles. They should've known that.
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I'm gonna add friction modifier to the front and rear diff, eventually. But I'm going to try and jack the truck up and see if there's play in the wheels. If it is a wheel hub I wanna make sure before I drop nearly $200.
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Sounds something like I'm going through maybe not. But did you try moving the cv axle with your hand to feel for play. I had a clunking too and it was from the axle shaft that the cv axles 6 bolts go on. The circlip came off from inside the differential and so that shaft was clunking around. I'm not a pro just my 2 cents. 
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When my balljoint snapped, it actually pulled that axle out of the front diff, and in turn pulled the snap ring with it. That I replaced back in August. The sounds appear to come from the driver side. Which was didn't have a bad balljoint, but I did replace both sides when that happened. I'm leaning more towards a wheel hub at the moment. I can still hear that whistle like metal rub coming from the right side as I pass buildings. Gonna take it to Ford in the next week or so, and have them look at it. Then go from there.
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When my balljoint snapped, it actually pulled that axle out of the front diff, and in turn pulled the snap ring with it. That I replaced back in August. The sounds appear to come from the driver side. Which was didn't have a bad balljoint, but I did replace both sides when that happened. I'm leaning more towards a wheel hub at the moment. I can still hear that whistle like metal rub coming from the right side as I pass buildings. Gonna take it to Ford in the next week or so, and have them look at it. Then go from there.
I also wouldn't be surprised of a front wheel bearing on the left side at that mileage if consistent, not oscillating.
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The pads are Wearever Golds, from Advanced, replaced them when I did the balljoints back in August, so the pads should good, was almost believing it was just a rock stuck in caliper but unlikely. Only pads I don't burn through in 6 months on the truck in the front. I had to replace the rears as well sooner last time, and one side was Gold the other were bronze or silver what have you and were completely gone. the Gold, after the same amount of time had 2/3's life left. I know the front driver side rotor is warped, as per always. I warp rotors every year now in the front. I'm leaning towards a wheel hub as well. Just debating if I should do one side or both sides. If I do both I'll do one side one day drive it, see if there's a difference and if not do the other side the following week. I found Moog wheel hubs for $188 a side, but I can prob get it down to $140 a side with discounts. On top of all that I believe my power steering pump is going. Have an annoying whirring sound coming from under the hood, gets a bit more prominent with turning while parked.
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