I have done all my homework. I pinned down the leak leaving a nickel size drip of oil on my cement pad. I went to my local dealership and he used oil dye to confirm. They want $737 for the pedestal and seals. 4.5 hours of labor and said it would be $1285 to do the job. I have never pulled a turbo before. But does this sound fair? Anyone else fixed this problem themselves or paid the pro's?

 

4-6 hours sounds about right for that sort of work if taken at a leisurely pace. Probably quicker for those who have done it before.

These engines have quite a few o-rings up top that can begin to leak over time. If you are the sort of person who doesn't like leaks of any kind at any time then you might consider a wholesale change of all the soft parts. You can go full monty and get everything you need for about $400-$500 if I remember correctly.

Dieselorings.com has everything you need. HPOP o-rings and non-serviceable plug, new HPOP hoses, turbo pedestal o-rings, EBPV rebuild kit, fuel bowl rebuild, FPR rebuild, up-pipe gaskets (I prefer the Ford gaskets vs the Fel-Pro units..not sure if Bob has those items though...???). Here is a link to the website.

1999-2003 Ford 7.3L

I did everything on my main truck last summer and it took the better part of Saturday to get it all done. Moderate mechanical skills required....nothing too intimidating though. However, I live in a rust free region so rust is an issue in your area it might take longer. You can find detailed instructions for most everything that is offered on the dieselorings website so browse around and see what your comfort level is.

The basic process to remove the turbo and pedestal is:

1. Remove air filter intake tubes
2. remove CAC tubes
3. remove intake manifold (spider)
4. disconnect down pipe
5. disconnect EBPV actuator rod clip
6. remove up pipes (they usually fall right out of the collector)
7. unbolt turbo from pedestal and remove
8. unbolt pedestal and rebuild EBPV (if keeping that component)
9. Reinstallation in reverse order

I usually recommend new up pipe gaskets anytime that connection is disturbed because they are crush type and are known to leak over time.

If you are already into the top end that far then removing the fuel bowl and HPOP isn't really that much more work. Those things can leak too so it's not such a bad idea to change out the o-rings and parker sleeves after they have 10-12 years of use. Finish it off with a new pair of HPOP hoses and you should be good to go for another 10 years or so...

The oil cooler would be the next thing you want to keep an eye on for failed o-rings. They normally seep for a while before they completely fail so you can get several months notice before having to tackle that job.

 

That pretty much covers it. Only thing I would add is, if you have taken it to that point, it seems a shame not do bellowed up pipes.
Jim.

 

Im not familiar with bellowed up pipes? Please inform me and its benefits

 

If budget allows, bellowed up pipes are what should have been provided when these trucks were built the first time. They completely solve the issue of leaking donut gaskets since the bellows are designed to expand and contract with heat. So, the slip gaskets aren't required.

Here is a link.
Dieselorings: International Bellowed Up-pipe Kit 99.5-03

I have a set of these on my wife's truck....they work great. My other trucks just have the Ford crush gaskets. They are holding up pretty well so far.

 

Are bellowed up pipes like new pipes? Or somerhing u do to stock pipes? And whats the price?

 

Click on the blue and underlined text in my previous post.

 

If your going to take the pedestal off I would seriously consider gutting the ebpv.

 

Please inform me of the benefits of that?

 

One more question ? I think the dealership quoted me a price that seems like a entire new pedestal? If im only leaking oil. Couldn't I just get the new seals and use on my current pedestal? Wouldn't bthat work and seems cheaper to buy new seals rather than a entire pedestal?

 

You can get a new pedestal for FAR LESS than the $700 the Ford dealership is about to take you for. Get the part number and start checking around on eBay, Rock Auto and everywhere else. Where you located?

Edit: I see you are in Idaho. There is a great network of Powerstroke owners up there you need to get in contact with. I think they have their own website even! Or you could check down in the Idaho chapter on this site. Way down at the bottom of the forums list.

 

Pocatello idaho. 2002 7.3 cc 4x4 sd

 

Or you could go this route....Very easy to do yourself.

Turbocharger Pedestal Rebuild Kit

 

Shop | Category: 99.5-03 7.3L Powerstroke | Product: 99.5-03 Turbo mounting Pedestal with EBP valve



Check the price on that one...same thing the Ford dealer is going to sell you.

 

Wow. Thanks for the tips. I learned alot this evening. Found new pedestal for $199 on dcpcart.com. includes the ebvp. I wont do the delete cuz of the cold winters in idaho. Think ill get the new orings and crush gaskets for up pipes and do it myself. F*@# the local dealership and the $1300 they wanted to charge me