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one random question dealing with engine and rearend setup
I got a ole 1976 f100 explorer supercab, currently equipped with a 300i6/fmx tranny and 3.00 hi-speed rearend. Npw I do some hauling whenever possible to supplement some income but it is a daily driver 80% of the time. I know that the 300 is a torquey little thing but im starting to wonder if I really do need to bump up the rear to a 3.55 or higher(just not a 4.11). I want to unleash the beast to the fullest but Im not sure if running the 3.00 rear for so long will wear out the engine at a slightly faster pace than the usual. It is getting d**m good mileage or at least better than the 360/390 that I have had in the past(miss my 390 4bbl, but not-so-much the 360 2bbl). Anybody ever have a similar setup to mine? Any input welcome as I am doing my best cramming all this useful material into my brain to pass down to my youngens as my dad did for me over the years, who also got me started in the dentside trucks since he had a 77 f100 that made me want one ...or a few later down the line.
Food for thought, dents came factory with a 300 no overdrive and 3.50:1 final drives with a 29" tire stock. I wouldnt bat an eye. The jy should be full of em, just pull the whole third member. Just need to verify spline count on your axles. 28 or 31??? You must be getting the 3:1 off of the tag. What is the rest of it say? (Disclamer, I am going on the assumption that this is a 4x2 without a Dana final drive.) ^^don't wanna start any heated arguments
I knew I forgot one thing, the tire size once again it slipped my mind. I am currently running 31x10.5/15LT, they came with the Blue Beast I had and swapped to this one when I sold that truck(also with real nice and shiny rims). Yes Im just going by the vin code(decoded to 3.00 hi-speed, not a Dana going by the VIN) and from what I can tell it was all original to the crappy AM radio, but the PO added some plywood supprt for the driverside floorboard underneath which seems to be holding fairly well for it to be wood. Cant you tell by watching how many times the driveshaft revolves for one revolution of the tire?
Yes you can mark them with chalk and rotate the driveline, but both tires have to spin the same direction. If your spider gears turn it will alter your test. No metal tag hanging on one of the carrier bolts??
Thats what I thought I helped my dad do that to his 87 250, he drove it and I calculated the driveshaft turning. I dont think there was a metal tag hanging on the carrier, we dropped it during the engine swap but dont remember seeing a metal tag to the best of my knowledge.
Sorry....not the driveline carrier. The rearend "pumpkin" there are ten bolts that affix it to the rearend housing. One of those bolts should be holding a tag. If not, it was torn off or the rearend has been opened up. Another tell tale sign is there should be copper "washers" on them same bolts. Usually those dont make it back for the final ride either.
Just to check back in, I did not see any different washers or a tag on the cover for the rear end. Sorry it took a while just got a bit busy over the days.
Naw Ive been busy almost constantly, working 8-10hrs a week I come to relax and thats about it. This weekend I might get the chance if I aint workin. IO need to change out the carrier bearing anyways to stop the brain rattling at 50mph before I tear up any other seals along the drivetrain.
Well i was mistaken, we just changed out the carrier bearing today and come to find there was a tag on it as I could not see it due to junk piled on it that made it invisible. The tag reads as this:
WDM-AG2 5MB
3.00 9 344D
SO......I guess it is a 3.00 his-peed 9" rear end from the bottom row's numbers? And what do the other numbers mean?
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