86F-150 roll at lights
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100watts divided by 12volts equals 8.3 amps per light. 8.3amps times 6 equals 49.8 or about 50 amps. That's quit a bit, I may take back my first statement, a larger alternator may be in your future. You can try it with what you have first though.
You will need to wire this up carefully. I usually recommend splitting this up into 2 circuits. Wire that will carry 50 or 60 amps and relays or switches to carry 50-60 amps are large and expensive. Usually components and wire that will carry 30 amps is easy and cheap enough to get at the store, so you could run 3 lights on one circuit and 3 on the other.
No matter how you choose to wire this up, I recommend you come straight off the battery. None of the factory wiring will be up to supplying 50 amps in addition to what it carries now. So come right off the battery + with two short 10 gauge wires and go to two fuses or circuit breakers rated at 30 amps. Put these as close to the battery area as possible.
Version #1. Come out of the fuses or circuit breakers with two 10 gauge wires, run these side by side into the cab to two heavy switches capable of switching 30 amps at 12v. Run out of the switches with a 10 gauge from each switch, run the wire up to the lights, and run 3 lights on one 10 gauge and the 3 other lights with the other 10 gauge.
Version #2. Come out of the fuses or circuit breakers with two 10 gauge wires, and run these to two bosch type relays rated at least 30 amps. I would mount them in the engine compartment. Come out each relay with a 10 gauge wire, run these wires side by side, you probably could run under the cab along the frame and then run up between the bed and the cab to the lights? However you want to do it. Hook one 10 gauge to 3 of the lights, run the other 10 gauge to the other 3 lights.
Then go back to the relays. This will be smaller wires to trigger the relays. Get some 16 or 18 gauge wire, run a short piece from each coil terminal on the relay to a good ground under the hood. Hook another short piece to the two remaining coil terminals to tie them together, and then hook another small wire to this jumper, and run it into the cab. Run it to a small switch, it can be a very small low amperage switch. On the other side of the switch you have two choices. Run this wire on the other side to the fuse box, and pick a spot that is hot all the the time if you want them to come on at any time, or hook it to a spot that is hot in run only, if you want the lights to cut off with the key.
You will need to wire this up carefully. I usually recommend splitting this up into 2 circuits. Wire that will carry 50 or 60 amps and relays or switches to carry 50-60 amps are large and expensive. Usually components and wire that will carry 30 amps is easy and cheap enough to get at the store, so you could run 3 lights on one circuit and 3 on the other.
No matter how you choose to wire this up, I recommend you come straight off the battery. None of the factory wiring will be up to supplying 50 amps in addition to what it carries now. So come right off the battery + with two short 10 gauge wires and go to two fuses or circuit breakers rated at 30 amps. Put these as close to the battery area as possible.
Version #1. Come out of the fuses or circuit breakers with two 10 gauge wires, run these side by side into the cab to two heavy switches capable of switching 30 amps at 12v. Run out of the switches with a 10 gauge from each switch, run the wire up to the lights, and run 3 lights on one 10 gauge and the 3 other lights with the other 10 gauge.
Version #2. Come out of the fuses or circuit breakers with two 10 gauge wires, and run these to two bosch type relays rated at least 30 amps. I would mount them in the engine compartment. Come out each relay with a 10 gauge wire, run these wires side by side, you probably could run under the cab along the frame and then run up between the bed and the cab to the lights? However you want to do it. Hook one 10 gauge to 3 of the lights, run the other 10 gauge to the other 3 lights.
Then go back to the relays. This will be smaller wires to trigger the relays. Get some 16 or 18 gauge wire, run a short piece from each coil terminal on the relay to a good ground under the hood. Hook another short piece to the two remaining coil terminals to tie them together, and then hook another small wire to this jumper, and run it into the cab. Run it to a small switch, it can be a very small low amperage switch. On the other side of the switch you have two choices. Run this wire on the other side to the fuse box, and pick a spot that is hot all the the time if you want them to come on at any time, or hook it to a spot that is hot in run only, if you want the lights to cut off with the key.
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