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I have a 1990 F150 with the 5.0 and the 5 speed. I love the truck, only problem is that it has a hesitation on the throttle. For example, going up a hill - i'll give it some more gas and the rpm's won't raise. If I back off a little bit then hit it again, it will pick up. I will admit, I know little about cars. If anyone has any ideas, I'd sure appreciate them. Thank y'all.
Look in your paperclip jar. Did you read that thread? It's easy. You certainly don't need to spend $30 for a black box with a jumper wire & an LED in it that ONLY does exactly what that article says.
Oh my! You haven't seen the latest from Innova. (CodeReader.com)
Model 3145 is microprocessor controlled, digital readout code reader. And best of all it only costs 30 or 40 bucks (I can't remember which), direct from the manufacturer. There is also an extender cable available which I fully reccomend that enables you to sit behind the wheel and pull all the codes!
An excellent manual is also provided.
Without this well manufactured little unit I would have spent another thousand bucks fixing my truck. As it was, it only cost me $120. Without the spare sending units I could have gotten by for a whopping $11!
ok mr. wizard, thanks for your help, i borrowed a code reader and pulled the codes came up with a 32. Looking in the code book, it tells me its an EGR feedback problem.... can you put that in english please?
Translation: get a Haynes manual (~$12 PN 36058) and a multimeter ($10-50) and diagnose the EVP sensor, EVR solenoid valve, and the wiring between them and the EEC. A vauum gauge would also be good to diagnose the vacuum lines from the intake, to the reservoir (coffee can) on the R wheelwell, to the EVR, to the EGR valve.
Robert at the Beach, I'm interested in this innova reader. I have an Equis that you have to count beeps. Where did you get it? Also the others are at walmart for $24. Save yourself time and headache and get one. The paperclips OK if your selling the vehicle, but we're only talking about $24. I like this innova, sounds to good to be true.
I thought it was too good to be true as well. It not only has already saved me $1000 with the F250, but I also have a 93 Ranger XLT that has forever had a wierd startup problem where it ran rough for a couple of minutes, kicked out of it and then ran fine until it was started again.
I ran the codes on it (it has three digit codes, my F250 has two digit codes, model 3145 reads them both) and pulled a code 334 during the rough start, which cleared after it kicked out of it.
Code 334 is "EGR valve closed voltage higher than expected", which meant that the EGR valve wasn't closed at all, it was only SUPPOSED to be closed. As the EGR position sensor (inside the EGR) returned a higher than expected voltage, it was being told to open, which dumped excessive exaust into the throttle body, causing the rough idle.
I pulled the vacuum hose from the EGR and the engine immediately kicked out of the rough idle. I then replaced the vacuum regulator, which is actually a linear actuator (I opened it up and looked inside), and cleared the problem entirely.
Cost of actuator: $22. Money saved at the shop: $45 "diognostic" charge (code read), $22 actuator, $250 labor.
The thing about this code reader is that you won't use it just once, you will use it numerous times, saving you lots and lots of money!
Ah yes, where to get it; CodeReader.com. The instruction book is included but make sure you also order the extension cable. It is real nice to sit behind the wheel, read the codes, turn the wheel, step on the brake, and race the engine to perform the KOEO test, and then to fix your own truck.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.