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Hey guys looking for a driver side floor pan for my 66f250. LMC dose not have one, but DC and NPD dose. Dose one company have better sheet metal than the other or they pretty much the same? Is there another company that one of you guys might recommend for sheet metal? Finally are 66 and 67 floor pans the same?
JW, Floor pans are the same from 65 to 79 with exception of the last 4" added to the rear in 73. You might check around in the yards for some good metal and save a few bucks.
Thanks John. The only problem is, here in the great state of Wisconsin our salvage yards don't have any old iron left. The other question is. Are all the re-pops the same for the most part?
I got mine from LMC. I also have a 66. Pretty cheap. Not too bad a fit. Did have to rework the outside edge and create a 90 degree bend along edge to match original, but not to hard to figure out. They were a decent size and were better than creating them from scratch.
JW, Call Rick at Carolina Classics 800-598-4211. He will be able to advise, and should be able to provide you with the correct parts. Tell him John from Creedmo had you call. Maybe he wont hang up on you.
Here is a cheap way out if you are not doing a restore, I suggest you use fiberglass, grind out all the old rust to bare metal. Mix in small batches to keep it from hardening before you can use it. If you need support, wax a piece of cardboard, fiberglass does not stick to wax so be sure not to get wax in the wrong place.
It does not rust back out and it is cheaper and easier to do unless you have a huge area. Of course, this does not apply to a purist, a restorer, a rich hobbyist, etc. I use fiberglass to patch all the old trucks as an initial repair and to keep the rats and mice out. Insulating foam also works well to keep the mice and dirt dobbers out and it cleans off easy when dry.
Sorry, I said LMC, I should have said MAC'S. I have purchased so much stuff, I forget whom I ordered each thing from.
I just checked MAC'S online catalog, they make floor pans for 65-66 trucks. $47.95 each. Size reached from toeboard seam at front to raised section right before the seat area. Catalog gives dimensions. At $47, not a bad deal, much better than the $137 plus the other charges.
Thanks John. The only problem is, here in the great state of Wisconsin our salvage yards don't have any old iron left. The other question is. Are all the re-pops the same for the most part?
Thanks, JW
I feel your pain...
I had a heck of a time finding the spindles for my brake swap in WI. These vehicles just dont exist anymore up here.
Jack's Auto Ranch in Johnson Creek WI has a bunch of slicks. Actually he has a bunch of everything old. I don't think he crushes anything. My bumper came from him. I am sure I will be getting other parts also. I am sure he wouldn't have a floor pan worth using.
Jack's Auto Ranch in Johnson Creek WI has a bunch of slicks. Actually he has a bunch of everything old. I don't think he crushes anything. My bumper came from him. I am sure I will be getting other parts also. I am sure he wouldn't have a floor pan worth using.
Thanks for the info! I need to find a 9" for my truck. Not that they are hard to find, but find a 1972 or older is. I need a bumper too.
Ive had luck with Hoops Salvage down in Juda as well. Great yard, clean, decent prices.
Hey guys looking for a driver side floor pan for my 66f250. LMC dose not have one, but DC and NPD dose. Dose one company have better sheet metal than the other or they pretty much the same? Is there another company that one of you guys might recommend for sheet metal? Finally are 66 and 67 floor pans the same?
Thanks, JW.
Hi -
Dennis Carpenter and Carolina Classics are my recommendations. From my recent experience, I would get the front cab supports tacked in place and then mount the floor pans. I drilled holes through the cab mount flange and floor pan and temporarily bolted them together so that the cab support steel and floor pan are tight together. I then plug welded through the floor pan to the cab support, then removed the bolts and plug welded the holes. Grind everything smooth and it looks great.
My first attempt, I welded in the floor pan first and then installed the cab mount. I had to beat the crap out of the floor pan to get it tight to the cab support. Still looks good, just disturbing to use a BFH on new sheet metal. It's much easier to use the bolts to suck everything together.
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