Well made a trip up to ohio from MD this weekend and on my way back, all hell broke loose. I was just cruising down the highway thinking to myself, dang shes running good..............................(insert screeching halt here)....

She bucked (almost as if someone shut the key off and turned it back on real quick), well thanks to FTE I already knew, the shiny CPS in the glove box was about to be used (however I was hoping it would make it all the way back due to the rain), and it was ONLY doing it with the wipers on (so I would just flick them on then back off real quick), made it all the way to DC without it happening again (also note SES light was illuminated).

Less than 40 miles from base as I was crossing the DC to MD bridge something else happened. I noticed it was shaking substantially, especially on acceleration from 40ish mph to 55. Well I began trying to figure this out, and with previous experience in this area I automatically freaked out assuming id just bent another push rod. Then also realized this could also be a loose UVCH (however I have the 50c mod), and was likely the culprit as there wasn't as much of a performance loss as the pushrod issue.

Well I got back pretty late so waited till lunch today and thought "time to do your job AE!"

Results:
P0238 Turbo Boost Sensor Circuit High
P1670 Electronic Feedback Signal Not Detected (Can anyone help me out here?)
P0475 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve
P1316 IDM Codes Detected (likely from UVCH)
P0344 CPS A Circuit Intermittent (Ignition System Misfire)

Ran BuzzTest: 1,3,5,7 Low to High (5 Almost isn't audible) Assuming Passenger side UVCH.

5/8 Failed Contribution Test, always have always will.

Gonna tear into this tomorrow night when I can get in the shop on base, First things first is gonna swap the CPS out, then check UVCH connections, pins, and all the wires, and go from there.

And it took me 5minutes to pretty much nail down every single issue.

 

I read somewhere that a guy fixed the P1670 and P1316 by replacing a bad battery. I think that is a IDM/PCM communication error. Loose wires?

 

That's the conclusion im coming too, ill know a lot more tomorrow once I get under the hood and tear into it. I hope its not the IDM but then again the modded IDM will be a nice addition.

 

Tore into her tonight and, "voila".

Got off a little early ran to the shop, did a couple of buzz tests still had weak #5.
Pulled the Intake spider, because I wanted to change out my new IPR solenoid and it just makes everything much easier, did that, popped passenger side valve cover, and what do you know? Not only was it about 1/8 of an inch slid back, the quarter didn't move with it (weird?) so I pushed it back together, and ran another buzz test. #5 was still very weak.

I investigated and learned that the plug into #5 wasn't fully seated into the connecter, so I shoved and wiggled it up into place. Ran 2 more buzz tests and 0 codes, and all sounded crisp!

Put it all back together (put my new 6637 filter w/ riffraff cover on it) and all was well. I still want to swap out the CPS (probably this weekend), and I also tightened the steering box a 1/4 of a turn (my steering has been getting progressively worse, so I am saving up to re-do the entire front end all at once).

All in all grrrrrreat success!

 

Also how often do you guys change your 6637 filters? Mine was looking pretty dirty/moldy-ish (I just got the cover) after about 11 months.......doesn't that seem long?

Another question, as I start my plans to rebuild my entire driveline front and back, what oil is recommended? (When I do this I want to do brakes/rotors, possibly ball joints if there bad, steering box) What else should I do on the front end, before I move to the rear end? On the rear end I already know I need all new U joints, and probably re-seal the axles.

 

I have run my 6637 with a Riffraff cover and 2 years later, the filter looks brand new. I have washed the cover a couple of times.

 

I second that on the filter,that cover helps alot