Yesterday afternoon I was driving on the highway when my '73 with the 302 started to bog down pretty violently. I took the next exit and it died at the stop sign. I finally got it started again, wasn't running smooth at all, seemed that it wasn't firing all cylinders. I got it into a gas station parking lot and it has started since.

I replaced the distributor cap and rotor as well as the coil. After all of that and getting a jump because I ran the battery down trying to get it started, it still won't run.

When I try to start it, it will fire, but won't stay firing. It is not out of gas, but almost sounds that way. If it does start, it dies as soon as I even look at the throttle.

The engine and carb were just rebuilt with about 1500 miles on them. It stalled on my once before, but started right up about 5 minutes later with no other issues.

Does this sound like a fuel pump? It is new, but so is everything else to include the tanks... If it is, is the replacement of a fuel pump as easy as the Hayne's Manual makes it sound?

Sorry for the long post, but after getting it towed on Easter, I want to get it fixed as soon as I can.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Brian

 

Could be, Pull off the fuel line and crank it a few seconds (into a soda can) and see how much comes out, Change the fuel filter too and then pop the dizzy cap off and grab the rotor and twist make sure the shear pin didn't let go...10 seconds of cranking you should get a 1/4 inch of fuel.

 

I was getting fuel out of line before, but I went ahead and replaced the pump, just in case it wasn't putting out the necessary volume. I am still getting fuel, but it still sounds exactly the same. Could this be a timing chain? I have fuel and spark, seems like the only thing I need besides air is timing. Is there a way to check this that doesn't involve pulling the radiator off?
Thanks!

brian

 

Is it a '73 302? How many mi on it? U can't C timing marks w/o pullin the radiator?

 

Where would I see them? I have never messed with the timing.

 

Yes there is a way to check get a timing light and see if the timing mark (SPARK timing) has moved,Your only looking to see if the spark happens on the 8* + - BTDC If its like 25* after TDC it has jumped.........Did you grab the rotor and give it a twist to be sure the dizzy didnt loose the shear pin? it does happen if you get any junk in the oil pump it will pop that pin.

 

The rotor doesn't spin, and the distributor is not loose. I'll try to get a timing light. The last time I used one was about 15 years ago, but it sounds like I can figure it out.

The battery is nearly dead from trying to start it after each repair. Could I just plug the light into whatever plug would be next from where the rotor is at?

Before I go too crazy, is it possible for the timing to all of the sudden go out of whack when I was driving. Everything was going great until it wasn't...

 

No you need to put it on number 1 which is passenger side first one, It will spark even though it won't. Start as long as you have spark.

Is it points or electronic? The points could of took a crap or the coil, The back side of the ignition key is also a spot to look sometimes they can fall apart or the hole thing could of failed on ya but that's if you don't have spark.

 

It is points. I replaced the cap and rotor and the coil. I am getting plenty of spark. I will check the timing. I can't think of anything else it could be. I hoped that the vacuum advance went out, but I hooked it up to a vacuum pump and it held the pressure, so it would appear it is in working order. Thanks for the tips on the timing.

 

So... It was the condenser. I was getting spark, but it was weak. It's replaced and runs like a top. Time to upgrade to an electronic ignition I guess. Thanks for the help.