WHICH ENGINE SHOULD I BUILD? .....Not trying to start a riot, and Im sure this has been covered extensively before.

My dilemma: I have:

- 300 I-6
- 302 Truck roller block (91-ish)
- 302 H.O./Cobra GT 40P from a ford explorer
- 351W 2V (69 mustang)
- 360 2V
- 429 4V (68 thunderjet)
.....and the 351 Modified thats currently in the truck. (Jasper, rebuilt)

All of the engines aforementioned need rebuild EXCEPT the one thats currently in the truck. The 351M does not suit my needs at this time. Maybe it can be built to do so, but Id rather spend the money to build an engine that will meet ALL of my requirements.

I am looking to build my own for extensive hard use, lots of torque, while getting double digit fuel economy. 10-15 MPG while making mountains of torque while pulling heavy loads uphill in hot August, and idling for hours in single digit arctic tempuratures. Ability to be flogged again and again, requiring little more than routine tune ups and oil changes. (Yes, I understand this is diesel terrirtory, but I must work with what I have already, thanks.)

The only other caveat is that I wish to remain carbureted for simplicity. I can build the best engine for this task....but I need to know which you'd choose and why. 1978 F-250 with 4.10s and a granny low 4 speed trans ........Thanks!

.....So WHICH ENGINE WOULD YOU CHOOSE TO BUILD?

 

If you are looking for a motor to pull loads with I wouldn't use a 302 or a Windsor. I personally would make the 360 a 390 and build that 390 but then you are stuck in single digits. Do a decent amount of torque with decent fuel mileage I would go with the 300 I-6. You can put a 4bbl intake on it, 4bbl low cfm, and headers on it and make a good amount of power come out of it.

Just my 2 cents good luck

 

I was thinking that too. 302's are ultra relaible and good MPG, but not much in the torque dept. 385 series = thinwall castings (overheating under flogging) and valvetrain issues. 300 I-6= Virtually indestructible, broad torque range.....but limited to about 300 ft lbs torque......leaving only the 360/390 FE engine family. Dependable as HELL, great torque.....but single digit fuel economy.

Any other ideas?

 

I'd go with the FE (no bias here ) at least a 390, or preferably a stroked out 445.....but don't expect to break 10-12mpg.

 

I would think that the 300 would be fine as long as the load is not extremely heavy. If you are pulling really heavy loads constantly you might have to bite the bullet and rebuild your FE. Only if you could get ahold of a diesel motor, the you would be good to go.

 

MPG and flogging and mondo torque don't go together on a gaser .. long periods at Idle and gaser don't go together .. 385 series with electric water pump and some other mods eliminate overheating .. The running conditions as you mentioned are best suited for a diesel motor .. solution find 87/ builder put 7.3 turbo diesel in with a ZF-5 tranny in .. weigh the cost difference including 17mpg vs 12 tops on your gasers over a 100,000 miles and the difference in fuel prices and I think the 7.3 diesel comes out the winner in the end on cost and you get what you want from your running criteria..

 

I don't understand the mpg concerns with a dentside, they are what they are, which is a nearly three ton brick with the aerodynamics of a refrigerator, even a 2wd F100 with a 300 6 and highway gearing can barely muster 15-17mpg, at best.

My dent's for fun, i drive this truck for mileage....'83 Ranger with 2.2 Perkins diesel (37-39mpg)

 

HAHAHA I love how you said that! That just cracked me up!

 

I love my dent just as much as the next guy, but it's true, they're hogs!

 

@Montana Totally agree .. Best choice more than one vehicle .. Gaser Dent for daily driver ??

 

I hear you Montana,I loved my 86 2.3,,,I should have thrown a 302 in that when my motor gave up the ghost with over 350,000 miles clocked,why isnt Ford making these. I bought the last 4 glow plugs Rockauto had on there shelf,if you need them let me know.

 

Tell me about the 7.3 Diesel swap. I AM AVOIDING electronics at all costs. How many sensors and wiring would be needed for a diesel swap?

1) I bought a dent to ditch sensors/wiring/ECM/ECU and all of the other electronic garbage that kept money out of my pocket on my last few late model trucks. Simplicity is key here. 7.3 turbo? I'd consider if I werent spending a month plumbing sensors, computers, and wiring only to replace them 30-50K down the road.

2. Is there a more simplistic diesel swap, like a 4BT or something? Considering the money id spend in building a gasser to uphoild the same standards, id consider a diesel swap...BUT NO ELECTRONICS.

thanks

 

I run a 390 GT engine in my 66 4x4 and get 12-15mpg, bit less when I was pulling a load with it, though it it is a F100 not a 250. I also run a 460 in my Bronco, used it to tow my race trailer, it got 10mpg when not towing and about 7-8 with the trailer, trailer is about 6800lbs. Then started using a 1976 F250 4x4 with a 429 that was built into a 460 to tow the race trailer, it does the best job. Lots of torque and HP. It will get about 10-11mpg without the trailer and about 7-9 with it. I drove it over Mt Hood last week with the trailer, drove about 120 miles over some steep grades and cost $48 in mid range gas.

 

X2 Redroad, one's for fun (dent) and one's for daily duty (diesel)...was different when gas was $1.50/gal. 8-10yrs ago but i'm afraid those days are long gone.

David, i have the '83 diesel Ranger with the Perkins (Mazda) engine, it takes different glow plugs than the '85-'87 diesel Ranger (Mitsubishi) engine, otherwise i'd buy them from you, believe me, i know how hard they are to come by.

 

A 4bt or a 6bt is the only way to get away from electrics completely. Except for the starter of course.