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This is a good thing...
it tells you the constant voltage regulator (that thing with a female & male spade connector)on the back of the cluster is working properly, it basically just shoots those little bits of power to the gauge(s) to keep em from burning up.
this means you have + power to the gauge, the gauge takes the reading on the negitive side and the sending unit in the tank (basically a rheostat) goes back to the
ground via the body. three things basically can only go wrong as a rule:
1-make sure u have a good clean connection from/on tank to sending unit screw on to the body of the truc, thus grounding the tank
2-pull the sending unit out & make sure u don't have a sunkin float by unclipping it & give it a shake to make sure it ain't fulla gas.
3-look @ the windings on the "rheostat" make sure they're not broken, & the contact point is touching em & looks healthy.
this is of coarse assuming you have already checked the (orange) wire from the tank to the gauge for continuity.
this can be e-z done by with key in on position touching it to ground(just for a second) the gauge should shoot up to "F" real fast. or run a dummy jumper wire from the non flashing side of the gauge to the dash in the same fashion to check the gauge itself
hope this is simple nuff explination & u get it sorted real soon
mikie
near ottawa canada
58 merc panel &64 econoline p/u