I'll have my dorman bellowed up pipes tomorrow morning. I just couldn't afford the IH pipes so I hope the dormans will work out fine. My mom is the office manager for a local parts/machine shop so at her price I got them shipped over night to me for 200 bucks. I'm dreading this like the plague so if anyone has any helpful advice I would appreciate it. I read a thread on here the other night where a member said he was able to do his without removing the turbo. I really don't wanna take the turbo off if I don't have to, I've never took one off before so I'm pretty nervous about removing it. I've already got everything soaking down with parts blaster.

 

I read where one of the bolts where to long so he had to cut it to fit tight. Check all this before bolting together. My hands were to big to get in there so I order my four inch exhaust to make th job easier. After cutting off the old exhaust I had more room to install. Its a great way to go with this style up pipes hands down.I did get mine from Clay and like them very much.

 

You can do it without taking your turbo off but it will make it will be a pain in the ***!! There is no room back there at all and trying to get the up pipes bolted to the collector with the turbo and exhaust on will be very very hard!! At very least I would try to take the exhaust down pipe off, other than that I don't know what will make it easier. I did mine with the turbo off and it was still a pain in the ***!!

Goodluck.

 

That turbo removal is not that bad IMHO. I pulled mine to remove the EBPV and install a hi flow outlet, non-EBPV pedestal and ATS compressor housing. Stuff like that is often intimidating the first time, but I'll bet it's easy relative to up-pipe removal with it in place. Nicmike's recent thread should be helpful, and I'll bet he'll weigh in here for advise as you progress.

 

I called it quits for the night on my fuel tank mods, so I'm back in front of the computer

To the topic at hand - I had also pulled the downpipe to install a new exhaust. That gave me room on the passenger side that was critical to making the install easier. Pulling the turbo was also required...because I rebuilt mine while it was out. The Dorman's are working out just fine for me. Check the fit on them before diving in to start removing parts from your truck. I had one hole that wasn't quite tapped deep enough by the Chinese kid at the factory I cut a little off the bolt that went in that hole, and it worked fine in the end. Best advice I can give you is what I read on here prior to doing mine.
1. Cut the bolts off at the manifolds if they give you any trouble at all. Once the manifold bolt/nut are off, the old pipes will practically fall out of the collector at the top if you grab it and wiggle/twist it.
2. Don't tighten ANYTHING down (very loose assembly) until all parts are matched up and attached to each other. Then start at the bottom and work your way up tightening nuts and bolts. You will need about 2.5 feet of 1/4 inch extensions to reach the bolts up on the collector from the ground.
3. BE PATIENT!!!! This install/mod will take you a day to complete it. Just relax and take your time. That babies butt is a real pain....

 

Thanks for the tips guys. I had read a few posts on this forum and a couple others about some of the bolt holes not being deep enough and I had already planned on bolting everything together before putting it in to make sure it fit together right. If the bolts in the kit are to long I had planned on getting some shorter grade 8 bolts to replace them. I'm gonna try it without removing the turbo but if I end up having to remove it I've already got the o ring kit from guzzles to remount it.

 

Great suggestions so far ! And I agree just pull the turbo and down pipe. And like Mike said leave all up pipe bolts loose until turbo is mounted and baby's butt clamp is on. Otherwise you'll be fighting to get it together.

 

whether you pull the turbo or not, you still need to have it mounted, so the collector/uppies align correctly. The d/s bolts areCAKE. Its the p/s ones at the collector, that are a PITA. Especially the top one. I found, using 1/4 rachet and a wobbly, got in there to snug it up.

 

Well I climbed back in there today and realized that there was no way I was gonna be able to do this without removing the turbo. Plus the engine valley under the turbo, which I had completely dried out the other day, was wet again under the EBV. Even though I was really nervous about pulling the turbo I figured I should to at least fix that leak if nothing else. To my surprise it was a piece of cake! The hardest part was getting the marmon clamps to break free from the down pipe/outlet and the inlet/baby's butt. It looks like the up pipes were leaking before I got the truck cause there is some gray stuff on the driver side up pipe where it connects to the baby's butt that looks like JB weld to me. I guess they tried to stop the leak with that, it didn't work! After pulling the turbo I gave everything another good dose of parts blaster. I have the reseal o ring kit for the pedestal but I'm seriously considering ordering the EBV delete pedestal from Riff Raff so I don't have to worry about it leaking again. Is there any real negative effects of not having a EBV? Here's some pics of my progress so far.

 

I rebuilt my EBPV with clays kit, it works great. I have the DP tuner with the decel tune so for now I wanted it there. Use a 2 inch emery cloth in your drill to clean the bore up it works great. Use all the seals in the kit too. Nows a good time to try the WWII in your turbo. There's been good reports about them. Check your fuel line close also that run along the passenger side head. They are prone to rubing on the clamp and leaking. Just take your time. I think the up pipes were the hardest thing I've done so far and it was alot easier with the exhaust off for the upgrade.

Chet

 

Thanks Chet. I just did the fuel rails and fuel bowl last week so I'm good there. When I get the up pipes and turbo pedestal done I should be leak free........hopefully!

 

I went with the EBPV delete. There are no real drawbacks to deleting it, unless you live in the far north and need it to help warm your truck up, or you use it for an exhaust brake. If you aren't doing either, you don't need it. It is obstructing 10% of your exhaust outlet. Get it outta there!!!

You can delete it yourself for about $10. Just buy two 1/2 inch set screws. Grind the valve out of the exhaust outlet, weld one of the half inch set screws into the bottom of the housing where the valve hinge was, remove the guts to the EBPV actuator, tap the hole the rod was leaking out of to match your set screw, put the back plate and snap ring back in there, and put some blue loctite on the set screw and screw it in. Will take you about an hour start to finish to do the above. Then put it back on your truck and plug the connector back into the now deleted pedestal. Saves you about $190.

 

Removing the fender liners makes accessing them a whole lot easier. I have a pic of Roland inside the engine compartment of my truck when we did mine.

 

Thanks guys. I don't have access to a welder, its on my list of things to purchase right after I buy a new hypermax turbo kit for my old '93 IDI this summer. I went ahead and ordered a non evbp pedestal and outlet housing from riff raff. It set me back some time and money but at least I'll have it done right and won't have to worry about it anymore. In the mean time I'll get the up pipes and babys butt loosely mounted in there.

 

Clean, clean, clean while you are in the holding pattern. Great time to get intimate with your engine with all those parts out of the way!