Camber issue?
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Brentwood
Camber issue?
just recently did a dentside front disk swap and used everything from the donor (i beams, springs, spindles, etc) and im having a problem with bad camber..
at first the springs were way to tall and it was really cambered out, so i cut 1.5 coils off and its alot better but still alittle cambered out so i was planning to cut a 1/4 or 1/2 more off but i realized if i back up into a parking spot or something the wheels even out? then when i go foward alittle, back to cambered.
is it my kingpins? theres no noticeable play in the spindles, unless i didnt try hard enough cause they are pretty heavy.. (8 lug dual piston)
could it be a alignment issue? they kinda do look toed in, very little
heres a pic, its the best i can get
at first the springs were way to tall and it was really cambered out, so i cut 1.5 coils off and its alot better but still alittle cambered out so i was planning to cut a 1/4 or 1/2 more off but i realized if i back up into a parking spot or something the wheels even out? then when i go foward alittle, back to cambered.
is it my kingpins? theres no noticeable play in the spindles, unless i didnt try hard enough cause they are pretty heavy.. (8 lug dual piston)
could it be a alignment issue? they kinda do look toed in, very little
heres a pic, its the best i can get
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 117
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From: Atlanta, GA
Did you install new kignpins and bushings during the swap?
Did you use the whole front assy from the donor truck, or did you mix and match pieces?
If the camber is changing, you either have really sloppy kingpins (or the wrong kingpin diameter), or there would need to be something very very loose elsewhere in the suspension.
Is the toe changing as well from forward to reverse? I would think it has to be changing quite drastically as well, since the camber is changing.
Did you use the whole front assy from the donor truck, or did you mix and match pieces?
If the camber is changing, you either have really sloppy kingpins (or the wrong kingpin diameter), or there would need to be something very very loose elsewhere in the suspension.
Is the toe changing as well from forward to reverse? I would think it has to be changing quite drastically as well, since the camber is changing.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 4,300
Likes: 18
From: Las Vegas, NV
Also take a look at your radius arm bushings.
Double check you tightened everything properly.
Jack it up and grab the tire and rock it side to side and then in and out on the top and bottom.
Or take a long pry bar and lift up from under the tire and see if it raises with a little pressure.
You shouldn't have any looseness in any of the front end parts.
Also, was the donor the same duty truck? F100, F250 and so on.
Double check you tightened everything properly.
Jack it up and grab the tire and rock it side to side and then in and out on the top and bottom.
Or take a long pry bar and lift up from under the tire and see if it raises with a little pressure.
You shouldn't have any looseness in any of the front end parts.
Also, was the donor the same duty truck? F100, F250 and so on.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 251
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From: Brentwood
Did you install new kignpins and bushings during the swap?
Did you use the whole front assy from the donor truck, or did you mix and match pieces?
If the camber is changing, you either have really sloppy kingpins (or the wrong kingpin diameter), or there would need to be something very very loose elsewhere in the suspension.
Is the toe changing as well from forward to reverse? I would think it has to be changing quite drastically as well, since the camber is changing.
Did you use the whole front assy from the donor truck, or did you mix and match pieces?
If the camber is changing, you either have really sloppy kingpins (or the wrong kingpin diameter), or there would need to be something very very loose elsewhere in the suspension.
Is the toe changing as well from forward to reverse? I would think it has to be changing quite drastically as well, since the camber is changing.
yes, everything from donor, like stated above
dont think the toe is changing to much, id have to look
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Brentwood
Also take a look at your radius arm bushings.
Double check you tightened everything properly.
Jack it up and grab the tire and rock it side to side and then in and out on the top and bottom.
Or take a long pry bar and lift up from under the tire and see if it raises with a little pressure.
You shouldn't have any looseness in any of the front end parts.
Also, was the donor the same duty truck? F100, F250 and so on.
Double check you tightened everything properly.
Jack it up and grab the tire and rock it side to side and then in and out on the top and bottom.
Or take a long pry bar and lift up from under the tire and see if it raises with a little pressure.
You shouldn't have any looseness in any of the front end parts.
Also, was the donor the same duty truck? F100, F250 and so on.
and ill jack it up and see
no wasnt the same duty truck, mines a f100, and took parts from a 250. because i wanted the bigger brakes and 8 lug.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,008
Likes: 249
From: North Pole, Alaska
You really need to take it down and get it looked at and realigned at a place that does heavy truck alignments as they would have the equipment to bend the I-beams if necessary, and give an opinion on what's causing your problem. Plus you can't expect the alignment to be the same from one vehicle to another as there are many variables that are in play. One I-beam does look like it is improperly bent from the photo.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 117
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From: Atlanta, GA
I agree with the above if needed, however if the camber is changing this isn't an alignment issue, it is an install/parts issue. You can't align a vehicle when camber and toe are changing on the fly.
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Logistics Pro
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From: Mddl A MexCans
F100's came with discs, and the swap only required using the original springs with donor parts in early F100's 65+. Yours should have been a direct bolt up. A small grind on the caliper head for 60's slick models wheels to clear. The explanation of reverse vs fwd changes camber has me puzzled. Camber or tow in ? If the radius bushings are good/tight. Check the drag link and tie rod ends. Mine was loose at the left tie rod,drag link union and it was really awkward. The PO must have given up on a spinning tie rod bolt and just put the cotter pin in for safety sake ???? I used a C clamp to push them together and turned the nut 11 times!!! before it was spec!
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Brentwood
F100's came with discs, and the swap only required using the original springs with donor parts in early F100's 65+. Yours should have been a direct bolt up. A small grind on the caliper head for 60's slick models wheels to clear. The explanation of reverse vs fwd changes camber has me puzzled. Camber or tow in ? If the radius bushings are good/tight. Check the drag link and tie rod ends. Mine was loose at the left tie rod,drag link union and it was really awkward. The PO must have given up on a spinning tie rod bolt and just put the cotter pin in for safety sake ???? I used a C clamp to push them together and turned the nut 11 times!!! before it was spec!
im gonna double check the radius arm bushings, cause i have a few different ones from both trucks and might of used the wrong ones or its not tight enough.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Brentwood
and to clear things up, it doesnt move alot like i made it sound, very minimum but somewhat noticeable.
and i not gonna take them in to get bent, they shouldnt need to be.
the springs that came off the truck were almost a ft longer that the stock springs, so maybe they are alittle to tall still
and im going to re check and tighten my radius arm bushings and see.
and ill get it aligned after
and i not gonna take them in to get bent, they shouldnt need to be.
the springs that came off the truck were almost a ft longer that the stock springs, so maybe they are alittle to tall still
and im going to re check and tighten my radius arm bushings and see.
and ill get it aligned after
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,008
Likes: 249
From: North Pole, Alaska
To do an alignment, the shop actually cold bends the I-beams to put it in spec. Not many places know how to do it, and have the equipment to do it except at a heavy truck shop. Since you have chopped your springs, you don't know where your alignment is at, and where it was on the donor 250.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: DFW Texas
ALL Ford trucks up to 2002, I think, get neg camber when they back up. My 96 does it and my friends 2001 does it. My 72 did it as well. My 72 had all new parts including all bushings. Most people just do not notice it. All that matters is where it is at while driving fwd. I actually had some pretty bad pos camber (top tire out more than bottom) on my 72 so I cut the spring. I accidentally cut a little too much and it gave me some neg camber. One thing I noticed with my truck; a little positive camber wore the outside of the tread pretty quickly. When it had the negative camber, the tire wore damn near perfect. As in, I put new tires on it and they never showed any sign of wear in 6 months of being a daily driver. If this is not your daily driver and your trying to get it low, a little neg camber with not hurt it in my opinion. The front suspension on these trucks is the only thing I don't like about them; its tough, but sucks!
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 251
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From: Brentwood
ALL Ford trucks up to 2002, I think, get neg camber when they back up. My 96 does it and my friends 2001 does it. My 72 did it as well. My 72 had all new parts including all bushings. Most people just do not notice it. All that matters is where it is at while driving fwd. I actually had some pretty bad pos camber (top tire out more than bottom) on my 72 so I cut the spring. I accidentally cut a little too much and it gave me some neg camber. One thing I noticed with my truck; a little positive camber wore the outside of the tread pretty quickly. When it had the negative camber, the tire wore damn near perfect. As in, I put new tires on it and they never showed any sign of wear in 6 months of being a daily driver. If this is not your daily driver and your trying to get it low, a little neg camber with not hurt it in my opinion. The front suspension on these trucks is the only thing I don't like about them; its tough, but sucks!
so seems like my springs are still alittle too tall and need to be cut alittle.
thanks!
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 117
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From: Atlanta, GA
I'm failing to understand how camber can change on a suspension that doesn't have slop in it, especially to the point where you can visibly see it? If everything is tight, and even with OE durometer bushings, the camber and/or toe should not be changing. Camber on these trucks would only change with ride height and with the effects of caster (camber gain which comes into play when you turn the wheel).
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2006
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Tim, I still have some weird camber on mine. The springs you gave me must be quite a bit taller than the ones I took off. Looks like it's time to get the grinder out. BTW, I fixed my driveshaft loop, now I need to get the rear end aligned again.