Looking for a locker
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Elder User
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Looking for a locker
I found my rear axle in my 1990 f350 dually has shot pinion bearings. I'm going to have it rebuilt and have been looking at lockers/limited slips. I like the lock-rights that I have found/read about but the price is still a bit steep. Is there any sort of traction aid I can install that will hold up to towing/heavy loads and cost under $400? I don't want to put it back together with the open diff but cost might require it.
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in general the lock rights are priced the best. kind of something cheap and affordable. but its life in a 1 ton that does heavy towing is questionable. if you dont have a lot of cash right now you may need to settle for a limited slip. or save up for a stronger lunchbox locker. i would call richmond gear co. and see if they make a heavier duty lock right and then save up cash for it. supposedly you are supposed to be able to install them in a drive way with no special tools. so do that when you have the cash
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Lansdale, PA
Personally, I dislike the Detroit locker for towing. I've complained in a number of threads so ill limit my opinion.
For a dually, on the road, towing heavy loads, I reccomend an LSD or truetrac, or anything that isn't a locking differential.
A Detroit will not unlock if under power, so unless you're already rolling through the intersection, the Detroit will stay locked and chirp/bind/hop around the intersection. I've had a number of differentials in a lot of applications, and unless you're offroad, pulling sleds, plowing, or drag racing, I'd stay away.
Truetrac is the most awesome diff for the money. Doesn't wear out, let's you turn, puts traction where you need it, and is very durable.
I've ruined a lockrite in a week. And any "locker" that just replaces the spider/side gears, only belongs in a toy.
I suggest spending the money on a truetrac, or finding an oem LSD and replacing the clutches.
For a dually, on the road, towing heavy loads, I reccomend an LSD or truetrac, or anything that isn't a locking differential.
A Detroit will not unlock if under power, so unless you're already rolling through the intersection, the Detroit will stay locked and chirp/bind/hop around the intersection. I've had a number of differentials in a lot of applications, and unless you're offroad, pulling sleds, plowing, or drag racing, I'd stay away.
Truetrac is the most awesome diff for the money. Doesn't wear out, let's you turn, puts traction where you need it, and is very durable.
I've ruined a lockrite in a week. And any "locker" that just replaces the spider/side gears, only belongs in a toy.
I suggest spending the money on a truetrac, or finding an oem LSD and replacing the clutches.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Roseville, MN
I'll second what UNTAMND said. I'd avoid an automatic locker in a truck that'll do a lot of heavy towing. I've had a couple of Detroits (Jeep and Bronco) and a Lock-Rite in an F-150, and while I'm willing to live with the handling quirks in general, it gets worse with a load.
With an auto locker when you start up going around a corner only your inside rear wheel is driving. When you don't get enough traction on that one tire it will slip until it's going the same speed as the outside wheel, then both will drive (but with the inside one spinning). With a lightly loaded truck that mainly happens when the road is slippery (or when your foot gets heavy), but with a heavy trailer it happens most of the time.
I don't have any experience with a True-Trac, so I can't vouch for their durability. But function-wise that's what I want in a truck that'll tow. Pretty solid limited slip for good traction, no clutches to wear out, but will drive both tires in a corner.
With an auto locker when you start up going around a corner only your inside rear wheel is driving. When you don't get enough traction on that one tire it will slip until it's going the same speed as the outside wheel, then both will drive (but with the inside one spinning). With a lightly loaded truck that mainly happens when the road is slippery (or when your foot gets heavy), but with a heavy trailer it happens most of the time.
I don't have any experience with a True-Trac, so I can't vouch for their durability. But function-wise that's what I want in a truck that'll tow. Pretty solid limited slip for good traction, no clutches to wear out, but will drive both tires in a corner.
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Elder User
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Thanks a lot for the insight.
I'm going to just stick with the open diff for now, I've had a few trucks with opens and have had pretty good luck so far.
I'm looking at about $400 for a complete rebuild (gears, beaings, seals, etc) from napa and a guy at work says he will set it up for $250. Does that sound like a good deal? I wanted to go oem but they can't get me gears and the bearing kit alone was $336 plus tax at my cost. I hate to do things cheap but unfortunately its where I'm at right now.
Are NAPA parts ok to use?
I'm going to just stick with the open diff for now, I've had a few trucks with opens and have had pretty good luck so far.
I'm looking at about $400 for a complete rebuild (gears, beaings, seals, etc) from napa and a guy at work says he will set it up for $250. Does that sound like a good deal? I wanted to go oem but they can't get me gears and the bearing kit alone was $336 plus tax at my cost. I hate to do things cheap but unfortunately its where I'm at right now.
Are NAPA parts ok to use?
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