My 351 idles fine, choke works, just when it's warm it wants to stall around 1500 rpm.
If I pedal it from idle past that spot then I can floor it with no hesitation.
But from idle it wants to stall when I gas on it and hold.
I replaced air filter, carb fuel filter, accelerator pump, vacuum advance, and ran some gumout through it.
Should I rebuild the carb, fuel pump, or get new points and plugs next to fix it?
It sat quite a few years

 

that sounds like the accelerator pump isn't functioning right. to check, remove the air cleaner, get yourself up to where you can see into the top of the carb, hold the choke open so you can see in, and open the throttle several times while looking down in there at the stream of fuel. you should have a nice even flow of fuel for about the first quarter of the pedal stroke, give or take a little. i know you said you replaced it, but sitting for several years could have a plugged hole or something making it ineffective.

if i were in your position, i would rebuild the carb and see if that does the trick. that said, i've often heard it said that when a carb reaches an age of about 10 years, it starts to have issues that generally won't be solved except by replacing the carb.

as you're working on everything, it wouldn't be any harm to check the ignition parts as you mentioned, though i doubt the problem you describe is ignition - but don't let that stop you from checking. points haven't been used since about 1970, so if you're in an 80s truck as i assume you are, thats one thing you won't have to think about. tuning up the ignition system would be plugs, wires, cap and rotor.

 

Thanks.
Actually I'm pretty sure someone swapped the motor with a 68 which might be a problem if they didn't hook all the linkages right..
I asked for a carb kit at Napa and they said theres a lot of carbs it could be, any way to tell to know what kit to get? The tags long gone since I got it.

 

your best bet to get the right carb kit is to take your carb into the store with you and see if they can recognize it, or match it up to something they can look up.
when doing so, it would be wise to go to a store with older employees, and talk to the oldest guy you find behind the counter.

 

I tore the carb apart and the accelerator pump has a passage to each barrel, the right one was blocked so I cleared that as best I could.
And the main jet on the right side someone had out an extra 2 turns (i guess to compensate)
Where the venturi and air metering rod is, should I take that apart to clean too?
Any tricks to get it apart/back together easily?

 

i would take it all apart and clean it up. try to find something you can gently shove through all of those holes to clean them up, maybe a cleaner tool for torch tips (see your local welding supply), and of course use carburetor cleaner on everything, as it helps dissolve all that gunk

 

Is this engine still running a EGR valve?

 

Josh, ok thanks.
Explorer it has one on it but it's nit hooked up

 

The Holley 4180 (identified by a vent tube coming out of each float bowl) is known for hesitation off-idle. Increase the accelerator pump squirter size from 28 to 31 helps.