95 150 5.0
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95 150 5.0
My truck is giving me some trouble and I'm just looking for a few ideas as to why. It has slow acceleration from start. here is what I have done to correct.
1. new plugs
2. new wires
3.new cap
4.new rotor
5. new air filter
I am planning on replacing the fuel filter now that I know I need a special tool to do it (nice of the guy who sold me the filter not to mention that)
Do I need to disconnect the batterey to reset the computer after these replacements? The engine runs smooth, but there is absolutely no kick left. I have seen some info on oxygen sensors but I am not keen on those (or where they are located on my engine) it's got 115000m on it .
1. new plugs
2. new wires
3.new cap
4.new rotor
5. new air filter
I am planning on replacing the fuel filter now that I know I need a special tool to do it (nice of the guy who sold me the filter not to mention that)
Do I need to disconnect the batterey to reset the computer after these replacements? The engine runs smooth, but there is absolutely no kick left. I have seen some info on oxygen sensors but I am not keen on those (or where they are located on my engine) it's got 115000m on it .
Last edited by rcrsteve1; Jun 2, 2003 at 08:30 PM.
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From: Vancouver WA
95 150 5.0
Your O2 sensor (if it's like my 5.8) is in the "Y" pipe where the two sides of the exhaust meet in front of the catalytic converter. You should not have to reset the computer for the things you have done already. I probably would if you change the O2 sensor though.
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95 150 5.0
Thaks Mr.wizard...I bought the tool to change the fuel filter 3.99 at Autozone (plastic) on my way home I noticed that there now seems to be improved acceleration,, I have not anyting else to it yet so this a little confusing. Does anyone have an idea how this could happen? What else should I look for to completely clear up the problem?
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95 150 5.0
I agree with steve83 pull the codes! Also check the base timing I experienced the same issue and swapped like parts. Foud out the base timing was not 10BTC it was more like 5BTC. Do not forget the SPOUT connector when you check the timing
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95 150 5.0
Thanks Steve,
I have seen your great info on other posts, I guess I just need to buckle down and do some real work...I cant really afford a code reader right now, but you have pointed me in the right direction. I can at least check the timing (I hope the light I have still works). The check engine light comes on and off intermittantly, and performance does improve after it warms up.
I have seen your great info on other posts, I guess I just need to buckle down and do some real work...I cant really afford a code reader right now, but you have pointed me in the right direction. I can at least check the timing (I hope the light I have still works). The check engine light comes on and off intermittantly, and performance does improve after it warms up.
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95 150 5.0
You don't need a code reader. All you need is a paperclip or a short piece of wire to short a couple pins in the test connector together. Then just watch the check engine light.
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95 150 5.0
rcrsteve1
Click on that link in my previous post, and you can read how to pull the codes with only a paperclip (jumper wire). There's also a link in that thread to the full code list.
Click on that link in my previous post, and you can read how to pull the codes with only a paperclip (jumper wire). There's also a link in that thread to the full code list.
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OK it looks like this >(No special equipment hookup is required. STI is jumpered to SIG RTN at Self-Test Input (STI) connector and the Data Link Connector (DLC).
is what I need to do. however, I have no clue as to where these pins are located, I am confident I can do this but are there any pictures out there showing the location? I dont mean to sound so dense, just have not had much experience with computer controlled engines. (funny thing is I am a certified pc tech)
is what I need to do. however, I have no clue as to where these pins are located, I am confident I can do this but are there any pictures out there showing the location? I dont mean to sound so dense, just have not had much experience with computer controlled engines. (funny thing is I am a certified pc tech)
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hey, I just found a link with a diagram on the process,,if any one else needs to 'see' the process go here.
http://www.clubfte.com/private/issue1.doc
Many thanks guys, I'll run the codes and post back my findings..
http://www.clubfte.com/private/issue1.doc
Many thanks guys, I'll run the codes and post back my findings..
The connectors are near the L hood hinge.
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95 150 5.0
Sorry I missed your link, but I'm glad to have your help. After I replaced the fuel filter, (the plastic tool barely got the job done, but for 4 bucks I cant complain
I went out for a test drive and noticed a bit more performance. When I got home I ran the codes using a piece of 12guage solid copper that I flattened the ends on so they would slide into the connectors. I got the following codes in this order...
121-Closed throttle voltage high or low
124-Throttle position sensor higher than expected
125-Throttle position sensor lower than expected
332-Insufficient EGR flow detected
I will research what I need to do to correct these codes. Any tips will be greatly appreciated, I really am thankful for your help, if you ever have any trouble with your pc check out the www.techtv.com message boards, I'm there a lot and you can get some great help from us over there for your pc issues.
I went out for a test drive and noticed a bit more performance. When I got home I ran the codes using a piece of 12guage solid copper that I flattened the ends on so they would slide into the connectors. I got the following codes in this order...121-Closed throttle voltage high or low
124-Throttle position sensor higher than expected
125-Throttle position sensor lower than expected
332-Insufficient EGR flow detected
I will research what I need to do to correct these codes. Any tips will be greatly appreciated, I really am thankful for your help, if you ever have any trouble with your pc check out the www.techtv.com message boards, I'm there a lot and you can get some great help from us over there for your pc issues.
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95 150 5.0
The Haynes manual tells how to test the TPS (3 codes about it say it's probably bad), and the EGR code actually refers to the EVR solenoid valve or EVP sensor since those are the only things the computer is connected to. See if you have a vacuum leak in the reservoir on the R wheelwell or in the lines from it to the intake or EVR.