My delta's are on the high side on my EOT/ECT. Since the weather is breaking here, not having 25 F degree nights. I am getting ready to swap out the EOC and do an EGR delete. Rounding up the parts and reading all I can on the process to do both without incident.

I have not seen it posted/stated that you should do a coolant flush before or after changing the oil cooler. If I do it before and there is crude in the cooler that breaks loose as I take it out what are the chances I will have issues?

If I wait to flush it after, what are the chances I will block the new cooler?

Also where do I find a parts list for a homemade (aka poor man's) coolant filter?

 

Always flush BEFORE changing the oil cooler. Change the cooler then add 4 gallons full strength EC-1 coolant.

Josh

 

Been along time since I got this in depth working on stuff......what the hell is EC-1 coolant?

 

Caterpillar rated non-silicate coolant. Cat has their own brand, Rotella has ELC and there a couple others.

Not too many recommend re-using Ford Gold.

Josh

 

Wildman,
Be sure the coolant is 190* and you are
on the hiway not towing..
Sometimes t-stat keeps coolant low
causing/masking true delta.
It is possible (although unlikely) the coolant flush
could help. The flush has occasionally
stirred stuff up and clogged a new oil cooler.
You might want that coolant filter installed before the
flush

 

ALWAYS flush before Oil Cooler swapp

Unless the oil cooler is Breached dumping oil into cooling system

DO NOT CUT ANY CORNERS FLUSHING


the better you do it the odds are LOTS LOTS Higher you wont ever have to worrrey about it again

I think I spent more time flushing then changing the oil cooler

Pull thermostat use VC-9 cleaner pull block drain plugs Even run the Hose in it at every cooling system opening let it run. Stuff the Hose in at the thermostat after the cleaner with Block drains Open let it run this reverse flushes the Block then stuff Hose in the Heater return line under the Degass Bottle let it run this reverse flushes the Heater core

MAKE SHURE to pull the thermostat for the Process ESPECIALY the Cleaner and set truck to 1100RPM for an Hour in the driveway It cleans it GOOD

Iv done it both way with thermostat in and thermostat Out
and ALL I can say is if you leave the thermostat IN your Waisting your Time the cooling system is so Heavey Duty so to say that you dont get much Flow with thermostat IN and it needs it out to get High Flow its the High Flow that Breaks the CRAP LOOSE and cleans it GOOD

At this point I put a Coolant filter on and drove truck for a Month and let it filter cooling system

Then after the month I did it ALL over again used cleaner VC-9 and flushed really really thuro again the Hose everything again Basicaly this last time trying to get the Oil Cooler to catch everything. Cause at this Point I changed the Oil Cooler out

Here is what my oil cooler looked like inside











you really Cant go overboard on the cooling system cleaning

Its been 2 years since for me and my ECT vs EOT Spread is as Good as the Day I installed the New One in it

here is a good writeup

*
http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...13634840161112 COOLING SYSTEM FLUSH INFO

I have seen Alot of folks here Put there trust in a Shop and have them do it ALL and have noticed a Fair amount of Folks have the new oil cooler plug again within 15K-20K Again since the shop Did NOT Flush Multiple Times. SHure they tell them How THURO of a Flush they do and its BS and end up with a Spill-N-Fill

Do it Right and do it once

 

I went ELC to

ELC=Extended Life Coolant

Must be Rated (CAT EC-1)

Some has Silicate Some Does NOT

I Choose Silicate Free Same as Josh

Mine was called Final Charge ELC I got from Oreilys

However Look around there is cheaper ELC out there I think they have some pretty good deals at International dealers sometimes

You will need 4 gallons FULL STRENGTH

When you drain the Cooling system you cant get all the water out so we ADD 3.5 Gallons Full Strength and this Yeilds a 50/50 Mix or Just a Touch Strong really Which is GREAT nothing wrong with alittle added Protection

 

Just completed a thorough job of flushing because of high deltas. Changed out thermostat first to insure high deltas were accurate. Used Restore and Restore Plus purchased from Cummings Engines to flush for silica/gummy deposits and rust. Used distilled water between each flush fill cycle. Back-flushed heater core and flushed radiator separately with filtered soft water from house (many gallons of water). Drained both engine block plugs for each drain and fill cycle. You will capture about five gallons total water with each flush if you capture all water from both sides of engine. Monitored water recovered from each side of block, plus the radiator all into separate containers to check water quality. Took more than 12 cycles of distilled water flushing before the recovered water stopped showing noticeable sand in the bottom of the buckets. Next time I will used house water directly into degas bottle and let the engine run with the blocks open. Sand never seemed to stop coming out of the engine blocks. Pulled the side wheel wheel to unbolt and drop down the starter and then remove plug and put a fumoto 108n valve with a small plastic hose and clamp down to bucket. Hose will slightly kink but will still drain quickly. Only open partially if you are running the engine. The drain hose could blow off easily on that side. Use same Fumoto valve on Driver side block drain. Its really not fun to drain the blocks but a lot of junk came out the the block drains with each flush. Bought CAT ELC1 from a cat dealer. Follow suggestions above, it wasn't fun or cheap to do, but last two drain cycles the water samples I kept still match to house tap water.

 

I think this is one of the best things for flushing the block. With a constant flow of water into the degas and the block drains and radiator petcock open with the engine idling, even sometimes revving it up, you will clear out a ton of crap... either sand or old coolant.

Josh

 

I will be replacing oil cooler and doing an EGR delete this week, along with a coolant filter, indash nav & DVD, and reverse camera. Monday is dedicated to flushing the cooling system. Drain Coolant, flush and drain with tap water until clear, flush and drain with distilled, drive for 60 min with restore and distilled, repeat with restore plus, flush again until PH balance is 7. refill as necessary. Im leaving mine empty until the egr and cooler are done but just ill just have to make sure i fill it up before i drive. But definetly flush BEFORE new oil cooler. Better to sludge up your old one than your new.

 

Coolant Temps have been hovering between 184-190 F.

Engine Oil Temp anywhere from 196 to 220 F, depending on around town or long highway trips.

When I bought the truck in December the Deltas where within 1-5 degrees no matter what the driving. Since I bought it I have had the cooling system open twice. Once to remove the GAWD awful serpentine belt tensioner and the last time to replace the FICM! Since then the deltas have been higher. The degas bottle is at the minimum level and has no air in the system.

I have read all the threads on the coolant system flushing. Going the distilled water route is not an issue. I do have a NASA approved water filtration system on the house's watering system, but it does not get all the minerals out. The water here in SW Ohio is so hard your clothes will stand up after washing them! Not really but if you do not have a filter and softener you will have plumbing issues.

So can someone spoon feed me the thread to the piece together coolant filter set up?

 

I peiced my own coolant filter setup together

I figured the More Coolant and the Faster I could filter it the Better it would Work FWIW

I didnt save any Money
IIRC I was into it $$110-120.00 bucks

But I Do Not like how the Kits Reduce the coolant return Line to that Smallest line after the filter (The Filter Return line). You can only Flow as much coolant as the Smallest Fitting in the system will let by.

The Kits smallest fitting is 5/32 inch (Very Small)

My smallest fitting is 1/2 inch and I also have to drill the plastic in the top the filter to 1/2inch its easy

So since I went with ALL Big Lines I installed the Coolant filter return line into the Heater Return line under the Degass Bottle to maintain the Bigger Lines


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here some pics

here is where you will tye into the cooling system you must do it before the circled red Valve



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Here is the Filter Head I got this at NAPA Auto parts
I use filter NAPA 4070 NON Charged filters
this filter head will also fit just about any Coolant Filter out there so no worries there



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This last one is a Pic of where I tyed in my coolant filter Return Line at the Heater return



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There are Alot of Coolant filter kits out there they all do the same thing and mount basicaly the same.


No Matter what Coolant filter you choose to go with is Better than Nothing