Need help urgently!
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
Need help urgently!
Well, my truck is on the side of I-95 right now. I was on my way to a clinical of all things and my truck (see sig) decided to quit running. It's not a battery problem as it cranks over, but doesn't fire up running. I checked fuel as both fuel tanks have fuel and pulled a fuel line to determine fuel flow and that checked out good. I pulled a spark plug wire to determine spark and that checks out. So it has air, fuel, and spark but doesn't want to run. I'm beginning to think it's a sensor but need some ideas as to which sensor it could be. I haven't towed the truck anywhere yet but I'm just looking to get some ideas. I also disconnected the battery to erase any codes but that didn't help any. Need ideas.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,667
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From: Easton,Ks
I take it you did turn the key on and the selected fuel pump ran for one second and quite.
Did you try selecting each fuel tank and turn the key to run three times and see if it will start on that tank?
You might also try pulling the SPOUT jumper out and see if it will run with the SPOUT out.
Did you try selecting each fuel tank and turn the key to run three times and see if it will start on that tank?
You might also try pulling the SPOUT jumper out and see if it will run with the SPOUT out.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 228
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Never heard of a spout jumper. Every time I crank my truck, I put the key in the on position long enough for the fuel pump to charge, after it stops making the whine sound you hear when it's charging, I'll then crank it. I tried both tanks to rule out a bad fuel pump. Problem is, I'm the only one working on it and trying to listen for the fuel pump on the side of I-95 traffic is impossible thanks to all the traffic noise.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 228
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I'll give it a try. I don't usually like to post as I just usually search and am able to find anything I need, but not this time. I really appreciate the help and will let you know how it turns out.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2013
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dont rule out the ignition module either, can you start it after it cools down for about 15 mins to an hour
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 793
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From: Lincoln, Ne
I had the same problem 2days ago and it was the #9 fuse under the hood. Power control system fuse. 30a for gas. I had extra with me so i put another in and as soon as i turn the ign switch it popped again so i wiggled wires around it and put another in and it got me home. I haveant traced the wire to see where its shorting out yet. If you dont have extra fuses you can rob one from the horn or from the trailer wire fuses in that same fuse box. Hope this gets you going again.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
Well, my truck is stuck at Advance Auto and they're recharging my battery for me. I'll take a quick trip back up and see. It will run for about five to ten seconds after it has cooled for a while. I'll look into the ignition control module too for sure. Keep em coming gentlemen. Sure do appreciate the suggestions.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 228
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Is there a way to test for codes without a scanner? No one around me has an OBD-I scanner that will work. Also, where is the ignition control module?
My spout was capped off and the inertia switch was already pressed down, subford. Stupid question, but what does that mean?
My spout was capped off and the inertia switch was already pressed down, subford. Stupid question, but what does that mean?
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,728
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From: Cleveland, TN
Here you go!!
Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test
Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test
Is there a way to test for codes without a scanner? No one around me has an OBD-I scanner that will work. Also, where is the ignition control module?
My spout was capped off and the inertia switch was already pressed down, subford. Stupid question, but what does that mean?
My spout was capped off and the inertia switch was already pressed down, subford. Stupid question, but what does that mean?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,667
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
You were to pull the "CAP" out and leave it out. That "CAP" is the shorting bar or you could call it a jumper.
When you pull it out you open the wire between the Computer and the Ignition control module. Some trucks have been know to start with it out but not with it in.
The Ignition control module (ICM) is screwed to the fender right near the spout. It is Black in color screwed to a big heat sink.
Someone may have put the wrong ICM on and if so the wrong one is Gray in color.
You said you unhooked the battery so you would have lost any codes that you may have had.
The location of the ICM:
/
When you pull it out you open the wire between the Computer and the Ignition control module. Some trucks have been know to start with it out but not with it in.
The Ignition control module (ICM) is screwed to the fender right near the spout. It is Black in color screwed to a big heat sink.
Someone may have put the wrong ICM on and if so the wrong one is Gray in color.
You said you unhooked the battery so you would have lost any codes that you may have had.
The location of the ICM:
/
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
Okay, went back and checked the fuses. They're okay. I went and grabbed my battery, which had been sitting on a charger for about an hour and put it back in. I thought, what the heck, I'll see how long it runs this time. I cranked it and it ran until I turned it off, which was about six to eight minutes. I went to lkq and found the only black icm they had with MOTORCRAFT in big letters and am about to head back up to put it in and see if it continues to work.