To cut or not cut the ignition actuator?
#1
To cut or not cut the ignition actuator?
Hi,
I'm looking for advice on whether or not to modify the infamous upper ignition actuator from the Ford steering column. I've got a '90 bronco, 5.8l, automatic, with a tilt steering column.
I want to prevent the steering and shift lever from locking up in the event that the actuator was to break again while driving the vehicle. For example, when this guy's actuator broke his steering locked up while driving:
FSB Forums - View Single Post - Ignition Actuator Replacement on an '85 w/tilt
^-
I'm following the replacement advice as detailed here. I'm just wondering about modding the actuator; both how and why/why not. A number of people seem to indicate this mod will prevent the steering/shift lever from locking up, which would be an added safety feature, although it disables the security features. However, on another forum, an experienced mechanic has advised against doing this as follows:
The quote above is in reference to an F250 of about the same year range; The actuator is the same part number as mine.
Here are some links to various people who have modified their actuators:
1: Followup to a thread on replacing the ignition actuator:
2: link to youtube videos by guy who cut his actuator down to avoid fully disassembling the column:
4: Another followup to the actuator replacement thread:
I'm ready to put the whole thing back together, but I'm still torn on this mod...I'd hate to have to tear the thing back open later on because I didn't do it right...
So...what should I do?:toothless
Cheers...
I'm looking for advice on whether or not to modify the infamous upper ignition actuator from the Ford steering column. I've got a '90 bronco, 5.8l, automatic, with a tilt steering column.
I want to prevent the steering and shift lever from locking up in the event that the actuator was to break again while driving the vehicle. For example, when this guy's actuator broke his steering locked up while driving:
FSB Forums - View Single Post - Ignition Actuator Replacement on an '85 w/tilt
^-
I'm following the replacement advice as detailed here. I'm just wondering about modding the actuator; both how and why/why not. A number of people seem to indicate this mod will prevent the steering/shift lever from locking up, which would be an added safety feature, although it disables the security features. However, on another forum, an experienced mechanic has advised against doing this as follows:
Originally Posted by tjctransport
the problem with cutting the rod is, if the actuator is broke all you end up with is a broken actuator, a rod that is too short, and a truck that still will not start.
and unlike the guy in the video, do not shorten the actuator to make it fit.
the piece he shortened is the piece that breaks in the first place. so if you shorten it to make it fit without taking the column apart, all you are doing is giving it cause to break again.
i am not trying to be a wiseass.
i have replaced over 100 of these actuators, and at least 25 of them were almost new pieces that were shortened like this guy in the video says to do because the people putting them in were too lazy to do it rite in the first place.
and some were so screwed up that i had to replace the whole column.
and unlike the guy in the video, do not shorten the actuator to make it fit.
the piece he shortened is the piece that breaks in the first place. so if you shorten it to make it fit without taking the column apart, all you are doing is giving it cause to break again.
i am not trying to be a wiseass.
i have replaced over 100 of these actuators, and at least 25 of them were almost new pieces that were shortened like this guy in the video says to do because the people putting them in were too lazy to do it rite in the first place.
and some were so screwed up that i had to replace the whole column.
Here are some links to various people who have modified their actuators:
1: Followup to a thread on replacing the ignition actuator:
2: link to youtube videos by guy who cut his actuator down to avoid fully disassembling the column:
Part 1:
Part 2:
3: Other guy on youtube; rounded his actuator off:
4: Another followup to the actuator replacement thread:
I'm ready to put the whole thing back together, but I'm still torn on this mod...I'd hate to have to tear the thing back open later on because I didn't do it right...
So...what should I do?:toothless
Cheers...
#2
#3
Agreed. In all the years I've been here and all the trucks I've dealt with that have suffered this failure, I have never seen any "fix" that works other than proper replacement. In the case of steering being an issue, this is the absolute first time it has ever been brought to my attention that it caused problems with steering. While I believe that it could be possible, it is a very infrequent occurrance that we even hear about it in this forum. At the very least, the kind of failure you are talking about is rare. Typical failure results in a "no start" condition because the actuator snaps. Otherwise the truck is completely driveable as long as you know how to get around the ignition switch. Maybe the actuators in the Broncos have a better track record.
#4
#5
I do want to do it right the first time; the question is what's right in my case.
I'm not trying to take shortcuts -- it would actually be more straightforward to do it the classic way -- but I'm concerned about being stuck in park etc. if/when it breaks again.
If this part had been engineered right in the first place, it wouldn't have a history of breaking so easily. One of the people who modified it, to which I linked, suggested that by shortening the actuator rod, it may lower the stress on the part and keep it from breaking so easily. Of course, then, you are still sacrificing the security feature of being able to lock it in park.
I realize the steering jam may be rare, but at least one of the people I referenced claimed it happened to him.
The variability in symptoms may be due to where the broken pieces of the rod end up.
I suppose another solution might be to forego replacing the actuator with another cheap pot metal one like fords/dorman, and use an all steel or brass replacement part, such as I've heard rumors of. However, I've been unable to locate a source for such a part.
At any rate, thanks for everybody's input. At this point, I'm still pondering my options.
I'm not trying to take shortcuts -- it would actually be more straightforward to do it the classic way -- but I'm concerned about being stuck in park etc. if/when it breaks again.
If this part had been engineered right in the first place, it wouldn't have a history of breaking so easily. One of the people who modified it, to which I linked, suggested that by shortening the actuator rod, it may lower the stress on the part and keep it from breaking so easily. Of course, then, you are still sacrificing the security feature of being able to lock it in park.
I realize the steering jam may be rare, but at least one of the people I referenced claimed it happened to him.
The variability in symptoms may be due to where the broken pieces of the rod end up.
I suppose another solution might be to forego replacing the actuator with another cheap pot metal one like fords/dorman, and use an all steel or brass replacement part, such as I've heard rumors of. However, I've been unable to locate a source for such a part.
At any rate, thanks for everybody's input. At this point, I'm still pondering my options.
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