leaking oil/engine light
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
From: TX
leaking oil/engine light
Hi all,
2007 F350, 6.0L 150,000 miles.
Noticed couple drips of oil on driveway yesterday. Today, while driving, check engine light comes on. When we got home, crawled under and saw quite a bit of oil leaking from rear of engine. Not sure where exactly the source is.
Just had the head gasket replaced several months ago.
Any idea on what to expect at the dealer for possible diagnosis/cost??
Thanks!
Laura
2007 F350, 6.0L 150,000 miles.
Noticed couple drips of oil on driveway yesterday. Today, while driving, check engine light comes on. When we got home, crawled under and saw quite a bit of oil leaking from rear of engine. Not sure where exactly the source is.
Just had the head gasket replaced several months ago.
Any idea on what to expect at the dealer for possible diagnosis/cost??
Thanks!
Laura
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,174
Likes: 10
From: Kansas City MO
Do you have one of these
Or any other way to pull your own codes?? Autozone has it.
As for the oil,, pics will get you more attention. Have you looked under there, bed plate, turbo, prob not a rear main, but the dealer might want to change it anyways. Bed plate requires engine removal. Lets hope it's a turbo drain tube, or maybe the hpop cover didn't get sealant on it. Who did the head gaskets, did you get studs put in?
Sux to answer a question, with a question huh. Lol
Or any other way to pull your own codes?? Autozone has it.
As for the oil,, pics will get you more attention. Have you looked under there, bed plate, turbo, prob not a rear main, but the dealer might want to change it anyways. Bed plate requires engine removal. Lets hope it's a turbo drain tube, or maybe the hpop cover didn't get sealant on it. Who did the head gaskets, did you get studs put in?
Sux to answer a question, with a question huh. Lol
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 7,833
Likes: 96
From: Manteca,Ca
Hello Lauria , are we sure its oil , we need to check a few things . 1. are we running right ( no stall, cold morning start,hot problem start ) what weight of oil ? 5-40 synthictic would be of choise , do you have a scan tool like ( scan gauge or dash boss ) ? Make sure Its not coolent from the wrap around heater core hose this hose will be from ( degus bottle /rocker cover/ ficm )( Main prob) back side of IPR or up side , around rocker to heater core,Also check center EGR cooler blue hose. I"M thinking ficm/ head bolt ware thru>>.or heat off turbo up pipe>>
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
From: TX
It has been running normal. Pretty sure it is oil. No scan tools. Oil changed the other day at Kwik Kar Lube - not sure what they use. We had seen the drops on the drive the day before though. I am surprised his guys did not mention the leak - they are usually pretty good about that. Ford did the head gasket repair ( stretched bolts!!) and recommended we put racing bolts on to prevent this from happening again ( which we did).
Laura
Laura
More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 574
Likes: 3
From: Grand Rapids,MI
it could be the return tube on the turbo. I have an 04 and thats where it was leaking from. Two dealerships couldn't find the leak under warranty and 1 had the truck for a week while I was out of town.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,834
Likes: 26
From: Middle Tn.
It has been running normal. Pretty sure it is oil. No scan tools. Oil changed the other day at Kwik Kar Lube - not sure what they use. We had seen the drops on the drive the day before though. I am surprised his guys did not mention the leak - they are usually pretty good about that. Ford did the head gasket repair ( stretched bolts!!) and recommended we put racing bolts on to prevent this from happening again ( which we did).
Laura
Laura
Trending Topics
I'm hitting easy street
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,395
Likes: 27
From: Central Oregon
Like the highlighted words!!!
May even have cracked the oil filter cap. Check the cap and filter housing just below the cap. Good chance the leak is there.
Here is a great picture of the difference in caps:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...12&postcount=1
May even have cracked the oil filter cap. Check the cap and filter housing just below the cap. Good chance the leak is there.
Here is a great picture of the difference in caps:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...12&postcount=1
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
From: TX
Like the highlighted words!!!
May even have cracked the oil filter cap. Check the cap and filter housing just below the cap. Good chance the leak is there.
Here is a great picture of the difference in caps:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...12&postcount=1
May even have cracked the oil filter cap. Check the cap and filter housing just below the cap. Good chance the leak is there.
Here is a great picture of the difference in caps:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...12&postcount=1
Does this sound reasonable?
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
From: TX
Kwik Kar says they used an aftermarket Penzoil oil filter...
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,693
Likes: 7
From: Francestown, NH
If the Pennzoil filter is one with the correct patent number on the bottom then it will be the correct filter. That will mean it was made by Racor which is the company who makes the filters for Ford and Motorcraft.
If it does not have those numbers on the bottom then it is not the correct filter no matter how much they protest, no matter how much it looks just like the proper one, and no matter what box it comes in. Patent numbers!!
For the FICM, don't do anything until you chat with Ed at FICMRepair.com. He could save you hundreds of dollars!!!
FICM Repair.com - Your Source for FICM Repair
If it does not have those numbers on the bottom then it is not the correct filter no matter how much they protest, no matter how much it looks just like the proper one, and no matter what box it comes in. Patent numbers!!
For the FICM, don't do anything until you chat with Ed at FICMRepair.com. He could save you hundreds of dollars!!!
FICM Repair.com - Your Source for FICM Repair
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 358
Likes: 0
From: Jerome Idaho
Replace the oil filter with OEM filter.....
Check out FICM Repair.com - Your Source for FICM Repair I just sent my dads FICM to Ed for repair for $225 plus shipping. All this is easy to do if your able to turn a wrench( if your comfortable ).bad battery's and or alternator will take out the FICM and that in turn will take out injectors
Check out FICM Repair.com - Your Source for FICM Repair I just sent my dads FICM to Ed for repair for $225 plus shipping. All this is easy to do if your able to turn a wrench( if your comfortable ).bad battery's and or alternator will take out the FICM and that in turn will take out injectors
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
From: TX
Replace the oil filter with OEM filter.....
Check out FICM Repair.com - Your Source for FICM Repair I just sent my dads FICM to Ed for repair for $225 plus shipping. All this is easy to do if your able to turn a wrench( if your comfortable ).bad battery's and or alternator will take out the FICM and that in turn will take out injectors
Check out FICM Repair.com - Your Source for FICM Repair I just sent my dads FICM to Ed for repair for $225 plus shipping. All this is easy to do if your able to turn a wrench( if your comfortable ).bad battery's and or alternator will take out the FICM and that in turn will take out injectors
I saw the ad for Ed's site. I assume reluable? Would it need reflashing? Is FICM easy to get too?
Oil? Would it be easy to see if oil leak from replacement filter or from cap? Still not sure about them pulling turbo. $$$$$ What are other possibilities? I am thinking have them do another oil change with OEM and monitor.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,693
Likes: 7
From: Francestown, NH
The oil change you can do yourself if you are even half way mechanically capable.
Loosen the oil filter cap, the filter will come out attached to the underside of the lid. Remove the filter, and the o-ring around the lid. Clean the lid. Dip the new o-ring in some clean oil and put it on the lid. Snap the new filter up into the base of the lid. Screw the lid back in and don't over tighten.
Under the truck unscrew the oil drain plug. Let the oil drain into a collection pan and bring it to recycling. Clean the plug and put it back in. Buy 15 quarts of the correct oil (which oil to choose is a whole other thread. You won't go wrong with Shell Rotella T-6 5-w40 or Delo 400 LE 5w-40, but there are others). Buying 4 x 4 gallon jugs is better value than a load of 1 quart bottles.
Pour 13 quarts in the oil filler spout. Give it a few minutes and check the dipstick. You may find that 13 quarts does it for your engine, maybe it'll be 14, 14.5, maybe it'll be 15. Because of the high pressure oil system each engine can be a little different. Start the engine check for leaks.
You'll save yourself a load of cash and you'll know it's done right.
Loosen the oil filter cap, the filter will come out attached to the underside of the lid. Remove the filter, and the o-ring around the lid. Clean the lid. Dip the new o-ring in some clean oil and put it on the lid. Snap the new filter up into the base of the lid. Screw the lid back in and don't over tighten.
Under the truck unscrew the oil drain plug. Let the oil drain into a collection pan and bring it to recycling. Clean the plug and put it back in. Buy 15 quarts of the correct oil (which oil to choose is a whole other thread. You won't go wrong with Shell Rotella T-6 5-w40 or Delo 400 LE 5w-40, but there are others). Buying 4 x 4 gallon jugs is better value than a load of 1 quart bottles.
Pour 13 quarts in the oil filler spout. Give it a few minutes and check the dipstick. You may find that 13 quarts does it for your engine, maybe it'll be 14, 14.5, maybe it'll be 15. Because of the high pressure oil system each engine can be a little different. Start the engine check for leaks.
You'll save yourself a load of cash and you'll know it's done right.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
From: TX
The oil change you can do yourself if you are even half way mechanically capable.
Loosen the oil filter cap, the filter will come out attached to the underside of the lid. Remove the filter, and the o-ring around the lid. Clean the lid. Dip the new o-ring in some clean oil and put it on the lid. Snap the new filter up into the base of the lid. Screw the lid back in and don't over tighten.
Under the truck unscrew the oil drain plug. Let the oil drain into a collection pan and bring it to recycling. Clean the plug and put it back in. Buy 15 quarts of the correct oil (which oil to choose is a whole other thread. You won't go wrong with Shell Rotella T-6 5-w40 or Delo 400 LE 5w-40, but there are others). Buying 4 x 4 gallon jugs is better value than a load of 1 quart bottles.
Pour 13 quarts in the oil filler spout. Give it a few minutes and check the dipstick. You may find that 13 quarts does it for your engine, maybe it'll be 14, 14.5, maybe it'll be 15. Because of the high pressure oil system each engine can be a little different. Start the engine check for leaks.
You'll save yourself a load of cash and you'll know it's done right.
Loosen the oil filter cap, the filter will come out attached to the underside of the lid. Remove the filter, and the o-ring around the lid. Clean the lid. Dip the new o-ring in some clean oil and put it on the lid. Snap the new filter up into the base of the lid. Screw the lid back in and don't over tighten.
Under the truck unscrew the oil drain plug. Let the oil drain into a collection pan and bring it to recycling. Clean the plug and put it back in. Buy 15 quarts of the correct oil (which oil to choose is a whole other thread. You won't go wrong with Shell Rotella T-6 5-w40 or Delo 400 LE 5w-40, but there are others). Buying 4 x 4 gallon jugs is better value than a load of 1 quart bottles.
Pour 13 quarts in the oil filler spout. Give it a few minutes and check the dipstick. You may find that 13 quarts does it for your engine, maybe it'll be 14, 14.5, maybe it'll be 15. Because of the high pressure oil system each engine can be a little different. Start the engine check for leaks.
You'll save yourself a load of cash and you'll know it's done right.