I need to replace my batteries on my 2005 diesel Excursion. I am thinking of a good quality marine battery. Can anyone lend insight on this issue?

 

I'd go with an Optima Yellowtop battery.

YELLOWTOP® High-Performance AGM Automotive Batteries :: OPTIMA® Batteries

 

Why a marine battery? I have two boats which I have Marine Optimas in... both a deep cycle for the electric motor and a standard for starting. Marine batteries have the wing nut posts to hook up the terminated wires in a boat and really that is the only difference. I'm not sure you are going to see any benefit in your Excursion because you have a "marine" battery. Deep cycle batteries are not intended for a starting battery (EXCEPT THE YELLOW TOP OPTIMA. COOL BATTERY). They are intended to be run down completely then be slowly re-charged. Wrong application in your EX. Just look at cold cranking amps and the lifetime rate and choose a standard auto battery. I have Optima red tops in my 1980 F250.

 

Marine batteries are typically deep cycle batteries. The advantage to deep cycle batteries is that they can better withstand being severely discharged for relatively long periods of time. The disadvantage is that they are more expensive and have less Cold Cranking Amps for their size.

If your Excursion is a daily driver and/or you don't typically let the batteries go dead, I see no reason to replace the batteries with deep cycles. It will be more expensive to get similar amperage batteries, they'll be heavier, and they likely won't last any longer than normal batteries due to the relatively aggressive charging cycle that cars/trucks have. There would really be no advantage.

Only reason I would switch to deep cycles is if the Excursion was, say, only used as a plow truck. Since it would sit basically unused for 6-7 months out of the year, deep cycles would make more sense.

With that said, if you still want something better than a typical lead acid battery, consider looking into Absorbed Glass Mat batteries. These are typically quite expensive, but they are better at withstanding harsh vibration, they are less likely to leak/spill, and they pack more CCA's into a typically smaller and lighter battery size. AGM batteries are popular with off-roaders as well as car stereo guys, as they're a very durable battery design and have a relatively low impedance (making for a very efficient battery).

 

Not in the right forum, but nonetheless. I had Yellow Tops in my 05 F350 PSD... part of what makes them tolerate deep discharge also increases internal resistance - meaning they won't always provide the massive current necessary to run the glow plugs and crank the motor. They lasted less than a year.

Look at the Optima Red Top or the Odyssey AGM batteries for cranking service. If you have accessories you want to run off battery, install a deep cycle battery or two and an appropriate isolator.

 

I currently use dual purpose (crank / deep cycle) AGM marine batteries in my boat. As I understand they are built to take more abuse from bouncing around. I often have need to have truck electrically powered up without engine running 1 to 2 hours at a time.

 

I went with two (always replace in pairs) Die Hard Platinums (AGM) from Sears for about $470 and a Deltran Battery Tender Plus from eBay for about $50.

My EX sits in the garage for weeks on end (I have a company vehicle) so I needed a battery that will hold up and a way to keep it charged.

I placed the Deltran next to the drivers side battery and ran the cord down between the front bumper and the front left tire. I then wire tied the extra cord along a brace and now I can hook up an extension cord from the wall outlet to the charger without opening the hood.

Works great for me...

 

All I run is marine deep cycle batteries. As stated before they have less cranking amps for the same size so you do need to run a physically bigger battery with the same or greater cca rating.
I run them because of the wing nut terminals being the best and easiest way to add electrical accessories and I'm usually playing my large stereo system with the truck off. If I used normal batteries they would be dead by now. Cranking batteries cannot be drained repeatedly.
Agm (advanced glass mat) are even more expensive but never need to be monitored for electrolyte level because the acid is absorbed into the glass material. These batteries can be flipped upside down, bounced around and will never spill. They also provide better and faster amperage discharge.

 

Another vote for Die Hard Platinums. No one makes a better battery right now. They aren't cheap, but worth the money, IMO. You will notice a difference in cranking and starting speeds.

 

Another vote for the Sears Die Hard Platinums. I've been running them for years in all my autos and have never had any problems or need to replace. The Sears Die Hard Platinum is made be Odyssey and sells for almost twice as much for the same battery minus the Sears name. Odyssey also make batteries for Submarines and Planes.

A few more posts and I'll be able to start posting pictures.

 

Here is another vote for the Diehard AGM Platinum.

I have two for my Ex and Two for my Travel Trailer.

Oddessy Batteries are well renown in the RV world as being the best. The Diehards are a rebranding of the best Oddessy batteries, and a bit cheaper due to the way Sears Buys huge numbers.

 

Thanks for the info. It's the way I am leaning. I just don't think a conventional battery can take the repeated discharge I submit my batteries to. How long have you had the marine batteries installed?

 

depends what you consider to be a "discharge". The function of the battery in a standard passenger vehicle is to provide the starting circuit with enough power to start the vehicle, from there, the charging system should handle the load, and to top the battery back off.
If you're looking for extended periods of non-charging time, or repeated deep cycles, then surely you need to go away from a standard battery and look into one designed for deep cycle(larger battery/thicker plates).

• Starting (sometimes called SLI, for starting, lighting, ignition) batteries are commonly used to start and run engines. Engine starters need a very large starting current for a very short time. Starting batteries have a large number of thin plates for maximum surface area. The plates are composed of a Lead "sponge", similar in appearance to a very fine foam sponge. This gives a very large surface area, but if deep cycled, this sponge will quickly be consumed and fall to the bottom of the cells. Automotive batteries will generally fail after 30-150 deep cycles if deep cycled, while they may last for thousands of cycles in normal starting use (2-5% discharge).
• Deep cycle batteries are designed to be discharged down as much as 80% time after time, and have much thicker plates. The major difference between a true deep cycle battery and others is that the plates are SOLID Lead plates - not sponge. This gives less surface area, thus less "instant" power like starting batteries need. Although these can be cycled down to 20% charge, the best lifespan vs cost method is to keep the average cycle at about 50% discharge.
• Unfortunately, it is often impossible to tell what you are really buying in some of the discount stores or places that specialize in automotive batteries. The golf car battery is quite popular for small systems and RV's. The problem is that "golf car" refers to a size of battery case (commonly called GC-2, or T-105), not the type or construction - so the quality and construction of a golf car battery can vary considerably - ranging from the cheap off brand with thin plates up the true deep cycle brands, such as Crown, Trojan, etc. In general, you get what you pay for.
• Marine batteries are usually a "hybrid", and fall between the starting and deep-cycle batteries, though a few (Rolls-Surrette and Concorde, for example) are true deep cycle. In the hybrid, the plates may be composed of Lead sponge, but it is coarser and heavier than that used in starting batteries. It is often hard to tell what you are getting in a "marine" battery, but most are a hybrid. Starting batteries are usually rated at "CCA", or cold cranking amps, or "MCA", Marine cranking amps - the same as "CA". Any battery with the capacity shown in CA or MCA may or may not be a true deep-cycle battery. It is sometimes hard to tell, as the term deep cycle is often overused - we have even seen the term "deep cycle" used in automotive starting battery advertising. CA and MCA ratings are at 32 degrees F, while CCA is at zero degree F. Unfortunately, the only positive way to tell with some batteries is to buy one and cut it open - not much of an option.

 

There are really three types of batteries in use in the marine industry at this point. Cranking/Starting batteries, deep cycle, and "dual purpose" which are a combination of the two.

No matter which battery type you eventually wind up with, lead-acid batteries can NOT be left in a state of discharge for any period of time. If in doubt, get a good volt meter and make sure they are at or near 12.6 volts for a 100% charge on standard liquid lead/acid types, or up near 12.9 for AGM. AGM batteries do sit a little higher than standard batteries at 100% charge.

AGMs (sealed) are appropriate for situations where the vehicle might flip or be operated at extreme angles, and the acid would leak out of a standard battery, or severe vibration. I'm not so sure they are absolutely necessary in trucks that don't go rock climbing

Be that as it may, keep an eye on the warranty and how it's prorated. How much a company will stand behind it's product says a lot about the product itself. To a point.

 

Sounds like you need batteries that can handle near complete discharge and then recharge: I would like to recommend the direction I went. I installed a next level upgrade to the Die Hards which are good batteries, but definitely not suited tfor two hours of use and then a trickle recharge when you get home.

I used the XS Power D6500's

D6500 | XS Power | Real Power, Unreal Performance

you can buy their version of a Bettery Tender or just buy the Battery tender for $60 elsewhere.

and then got an excellent Alternator DC Power 270 Amp

https://www.dcpowerinc.com/high-outp...rstroke+Diesel

These are NOT cheap! But can be had at good discounts as you shop online.

You can get the alternator through FICMrepair.com for a pretty good discount.

My electrical system is running 2000 watt stereo, satellite dish system, and 2000 watt pure sine inverter and doesnt much blink!

This is a serious investment, but I NEVER worry if my truck will power up and run.