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I replaced the dimmer switch, checked the door switches, fuses. Yet the dome light and lights behind the cluster don't work. One person suggested it might be a ground issue.
The turn signal indicator, brake, high beam, battery and oil warning lights work. I'm getting voltage out of the dimmer switch but not at the bulbs. I'm running out of ideas.
I replaced the dimmer switch, checked the door switches, fuses. Yet the dome light and lights behind the cluster don't work. One person suggested it might be a ground issue.
The turn signal indicator, brake, high beam, battery and oil warning lights work. I'm getting voltage out of the dimmer switch but not at the bulbs. I'm running out of ideas.
I would of suggested maybe a broken trace on the ICB, but that wouldn't affect the dome light...would it?
It would seem like they are connected at some point. Isn't the dome light suppose to turn on when you turn the dimmer switch?
It seems like it's only the lights that are effected by the dimmer switch. The bulbs on the ICB that sit behind the warning lights work.
I did find one small burnt spot on a wire at the dimmer switch. I went ahead and cut out the area and repaired. Removed the fuse block and checked the wires in the back and everything looked good. Might be another bad wire some where, just have to figure out where to look.
When the headlights are on, and the dimmer is turned for max brightness of the bulbs, do you have voltage at one of the terminals of the dash lighting fuse when you pull it out?
I just went out and put a voltmeter to the "instrument cluster" fuse socket. Noticed the 5amp fuse was blown. With the dimmer on I'm getting 11.78 volts. So I tried putting a 10amp fuse and it blew right away.
I replaced the dimmer switch, checked the door switches, fuses. Yet the dome light and lights behind the cluster don't work. One person suggested it might be a ground issue.
The turn signal indicator, brake, high beam, battery and oil warning lights work. I'm getting voltage out of the dimmer switch but not at the bulbs. I'm running out of ideas.
Your "About Me" profile sez 1979 F150. Is this what you're working on?
If it is, the instrument cluster back is made of a composition material that can TURN TO DUST before your very eyes!
The dome light and cluster/instrument backlights are different circuits.
Dimmable backlighting is the light blue/red-stripe wire, locate that circuit and look for shorts to ground.
Some people install aftermarket radios and for some reason think that's a ground wire, it's not.
It still has the factory radio. The only thing that has been added is a trailer brake controller. (Which I removed)
Would the wiring harness in the rear lights have anything to do with the cluster wiring? One time the rear running lights went out as did my turn signal lights. Then magically started working again. It has a rats nest of trailer wiring I ought to remove.
Move, check the circuit that ctubutis referred you to. Check for continuity and /or voltage all along it's path until you find your problem. That's all I can think of a this point. Just step it all the way through.
But if the circuit is blowing fuses, then you likely have a short to ground somewhere. Find it.
The dash lights and tail lights are usually on the same circuit, so the trailer harness could be the issue.
That's not true. They are fed from the same power source inside the headlight switch, but do split up when they leave the headlight switch. The brown wire leaves the switch and feeds all the running/taillights, while the blue/red leaves the headlight switch and feeds the instrument fuse(the one he checked).
So, if the running/taillight fuse blows, it will cut the cluster lights also, because they branch off inside the headlight switch. But he said his cluster fuse is blowing, so that narrows it down to just the cluster/dash wiring. The first thing I would do is unplug the cluster plugs, then try a 5 amp fuse. If it doesn't blow, you know it's in the cluster. If it does blow, you know the problem is with one of the other dash lights/wires that illuminate various parts of the dash, like the radio that was mentioned, the heater controls, and are there some over near the headlight and wiper switches?
That's not true. They are fed from the same power source inside the headlight switch, but do split up when they leave the headlight switch. The brown wire leaves the switch and feeds all the running/taillights, while the blue/red leaves the headlight switch and feeds the instrument fuse(the one he checked).
So, if the running/taillight fuse blows, it will cut the cluster lights also, because they branch off inside the headlight switch. But he said his cluster fuse is blowing, so that narrows it down to just the cluster/dash wiring. The first thing I would do is unplug the cluster plugs, then try a 5 amp fuse. If it doesn't blow, you know it's in the cluster. If it does blow, you know the problem is with one of the other dash lights/wires that illuminate various parts of the dash, like the radio that was mentioned, the heater controls, and are there some over near the headlight and wiper switches?
Oops, I missed the part about the cluster fuse blowing.
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