My dealer did it for free last time I was in for an oil change (last week), but he said they had changed the test requirements and the strips were no longer needed? Anyone else hear that?

 

I don't expect them to do it for free since all they see me for is warranty bs(I do my own maintence and repairs otherwise) , but for ninety dollars they priced themselves out of doing it in the future....

 

I will inquire when I pick up my truck later this week.

 

This...my deal did it and added the additive required for free. Tech showed me the strip and I watched him add the additive.

 

I have no doubt that it would have been done for free under old ownership. Dealer called this morning and said trucks all set, no additive was needed on that front. Will pick it up Saturday at this point and ask more questions about current testing procedures.

 

I was told by my dealership that they would do it for free (light came on 3 days after they did an oil change). This from a dealer that wants $220 to change the fuel filters.

 

If a dealer is showing you One (1) strip, he is showing you 1/4 of what he should have tested.

You have two radiator systems, So at least one strip for each coolant system. You can't reuse the first strip in the second system.

The first strip test for Nitrites, and Glycol

Next you have to add 5 ml of coolant to the appropriate vial then test the Corrosion inhibitor with a different type of test strip. ( Orange cap or Clear capped vial depending of coolant color.)

Two coolant systems. Two separate test strips each system, He should be showing you four (4) strips if he did the test right.

 

It's actually 5 strips total..... One is to tell you which color "test tube" (orange or clear) to use for each corrosion test......

Hoot

 

Also if you fail the Corrosion Inhibitor, You need to add 48oz of VC 12 to the Primary cooling system and I don't remember the exact number in secondary cooling systems, (but I think it was over 20 oz)

VC-12 comes in a quart bottle. That equals 32 OZ, So if you need to add it to the primary system, You will be buying at least two bottles of revitalizer.

 

I'm sorry. It's six total test strips. I'm having a problem with higher math.

Hoot

 

Agree!!!!

IMHO,

1. Nothing substitutes a periodic flush of the radiator

2. When I drain the coolant, I place a doubled up paper towel over the funnel which filters to less than 3 microns (much better then any of the inline filters)- in terms of contaminants, the coolant is now as clean as when it came out of the original bottle. Provided it meets all the other test I do, it is reinstalled in the vehicle.

3. I have installed a magnesium anode in all overflows (same electrolysis protection used per code for all underground tanks)- Zinc anodes are available as well (JC Whitney, etc.) specifically for automotive applications and sell for about $6- they attract all the nasty stuff that destroys radiators, pumps, hoses etc and they become the sacrificial lamb- and keeps the ph of the fluid neutral. The inside of my cooling system and related components is spotless- literally!

4. I check the ph (using a swimming pool kit) - and check the alcohol content using a conventional coolant bulb type test device ($10 at any parts store)

the results.....

1. Contaminant production is eliminated by 90%+ as a result of the neutral ph maintenance

2. Contaminants that are produced are contained outside of the system flow, in the overflow at the anode. At this point I have less contaminant in my system than if I used an inline filter because we have eliminated 90% of the production and contained the residual.

3. With the paper towel, I can actually see the residual system contaminants (which you can typically count) and by most accounts visually know if a potential problem exist by the type and color of the products. The coolant is as clean as if I had opened a fresh container.

4. The system is clean and performance level known.

 

Going in to this I thought the official kit was more expensive. My thing right now is proof of maintenance really, I can save receipts for filters and oil. Now I'll have a receipt for a test kit. But your advice is solid. I personally would put fresh coolant in though if I went as far as to drain it, more because of the time I would spend cleaning a suitable container. My drainpans aren't suitable to reuse fluids for my lawnmower.....

 

I completely understand regarding the warranty aspect- with regards to replacing the coolant, it's a bit of a different thought process........
where as oil get tired, coolant doesn't.....once the PH is set at 7.0 (neutral is actually 7.1) when you replace the fluid & add distilled water of just the pre-mix, the PH is no longer "perfect" and the anode has to "go back to work" so to speak......this is probably the only time that as long as the coolant is in good shape, it's a fluid that should not be replaced.

I know, really different than what we are all use to.............

 

The official kit is more expensive, Because it contains not only the test strips, but the special vials that you need to place the coolant in for the second test.

You get two different types of test strips. The first strip looks at the Nitrites and Glycol. Just like all previous coolants. The previous generation of powerstroke engines all HAD Nitrites. The 6.7L has NONE. So you using the same test strips but looking for the exact opposite result. If you have any nitrites, You need to flush and refill with new coolant. This will probably always test negative unless somebody added the wrong kind of coolant or coolant additive.

The second test strip is all new and never used on any of the previous powerstroke engines. After testing for the Coolant Reserve Alkalinity ( by looking at the coolant and based on the color placing 5 ml of coolant into either the vial with the Orange or Clear cap, You then dip the second test strip in to check the Corrosion Inhibitor ( contamination ) level. If you fail this test you will need to add the recommended amount of the VC-12 coolant revitalizer ( which is 48oz into the primary coolant system) You can add this revitalizer twice during the coolants life. This is a Carboxylate that slowly coats the interior metal parts to prevent rust.

Don't treat this coolant like the coolants you used for years in your other cars and trucks, This is all new stuff.

 

It's Specialty Orange coolant right? From my understanding the coolant base is the same type as Dexcool, with a different additive package. I'm guessing Ford is trying to avoid dexcools problems with this maintenance plan.