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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

I'm such a hypocrite...

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Old Mar 15, 2013 | 02:52 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by f100beatertruck
Well... The bug bit... After saying I wanted a simple, non-computer, carbureted, C6 truck I've already decided to use a computer I built to convert to EFI and run an E4OD with an aftermarket controller.
It's funny you put it that way, I was always sort of the opposite. I always said I'd never own something carb'd because I grew up with EFI.

Funny how I ended up with an carb'd F150 with a C6. Even more ironic is I use it to tow my Volvo race car that I've been tuning with megasquirt for 5 years.

I run megasquirt on my race car (Volvo powered) and I've also built a turbo 5.0 ford in a Volvo running MS, I made my own EEC-IV-->MS harness adapter and I've done so much with megasquirt. So far I've megasquirted 3 of my own cars and helped with many other installations.

This is my old Volvo with a Ford 5.0 single turbo running on MS..
<iframe width="640" height="480" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/azcW6oFBbcY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

If you ever decide to turbo the thing, I've got plenty of spark and ignition maps for you!
 
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Old Mar 15, 2013 | 03:05 PM
  #62  
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What did you end up using for your manafolds? Is that a pax side 5.0L reversed on the driver side? How about the PAX side? Where did you run the driver side to? down under and back up in front of the motor?
 
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Old Mar 15, 2013 | 03:29 PM
  #63  
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I wanted to try one of those made in china turbo kits that people are always knocking as being useless.

I got a hotside pipe kit for $400, the driver side pipe didn't fit, my build was super low budget so I flipped a pass. side header upside down on the driver side to feed the cross-pipe. I used a legit borg-warner turbo and an OBX external wastegate.

This probably gives you the best perspective of what was going on with it.

 
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Old Mar 15, 2013 | 03:36 PM
  #64  
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Ok, not too far off of what I was thinking. Thanks for the pics...
 
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Old Mar 15, 2013 | 04:27 PM
  #65  
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I'm looking mostly at what seems to be a 1969 Mustang Mach 1
 
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Old Mar 15, 2013 | 06:28 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by f100beatertruck
Gary, the alarm code is in a function and can be called from any readout, although the only one that uses it is the voltmeter currently. What I need to do now is read all the inputs in the main loop, alarm if needed and display the appropriate display based on what's been selected. It's going to default to a voltmeter, then a single button will cycle through displays.

I guess the next step would be a focus function to go to the display that's signaling the alarm, but I have to make sure it works right when there are multiple alarms. Probably cycle through the displays that are in alarm.

Bill, does the sender output a variable signal? I remember hearing something about that years ago and it was the sender, not the gauge. The sender was basically on/off and the gauge became a fancy idiot light. If that's the case it could be as simple as using the earlier sender, which I believe is what I was told years ago. We're talking almost 20 years ago so my memory could be a bit foggy...
David, it is a normally open switch, closes with oil pressure. The "gauge" has a fixed resistor to ground through the switch. Unfortunately it doesn't seem as simple as using an older sender. In 1989 Ford changed their gauges, fuel works so open circuit is past full, temperature and oil pressure, open circuit is cold or low. Resistance values changed too. They are similar to GM gauges in that they are "balanced coil style rather than the older thermal type. I will have to see what values are called out in the 91 manual I have.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2013 | 06:47 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by 85lebaront2
In 1989 Ford changed their gauges....
I thought it was 1987 but maybe I'm wrong. Can look on Rock's site and look at the resistance values of fuel tank senders for various years but I'm kinda lazy ATM....
 
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Old Mar 15, 2013 | 07:46 PM
  #68  
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The oil pressure gauge in my 87 works.

Or maybe it's broken and that's why it reads like normal...
 
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Old Mar 15, 2013 | 09:03 PM
  #69  
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1989 was the change, up through 1988 the gauges were the 5 volt regulated thermal type. Starting in 1989 the gauges and senders changed.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2013 | 09:22 PM
  #70  
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Bill, did a little searching, looks like you have an easy fix. Bypass the resistor and install a real sender vs the switch...

Ford Oil Pressure Gauge Fix
 
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Old Mar 15, 2013 | 09:41 PM
  #71  
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It is amazing that they weren't sued if they changed out the sender for a switch on someone's vehicle. I can't even imagine them not getting a huge fine for doing that - assuming it was w/o the owner's blessing.

And, I'm surprised the little 1/4 watt resistors didn't burn up to the point the color codes weren't readable. With my testing the resistors got really hot, and I had 72, 20, and 10 ohm ones. I would have thought continual use would have baked them.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2013 | 10:47 PM
  #72  
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Gary, much less current on the newer gauges.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 04:18 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
I'm looking mostly at what seems to be a 1969 Mustang Mach 1
It's actually a factory GT package, looks like a Mach 1 though, it's not perfectly original because of the 393 stroker but it keeps an original look.
 
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