When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a flat ceiling, approx 59" x 82", with two electrical boxes, a ventilation fan and a 14"x15" access panel. There is also a post in the middle of it, towards one end. This replaces the upper part of a cathedral ceiling, so the edges need to match up to the existing sloped drywall. Framing and backing are complete. There are two beams that need to be covered as well, which will consist of two strips of drywall about 4" wide by 8'. There are a couple other "blend in" issues.
Just for fun, can anyone give me a wag on what this should cost?
I used to price it by the sheet. 1 sheet is 4 operations.
1 drywall
2 tape
3 block
4 primer
It's been 10 years since I've done it for a living, but then it was $8 per operation, so a sheet cost $32 each sheet
Your job, I would have called the ceiling 5' x 8'. or 2 sheets. add 1 more sheet for the columns, and another $8 for installing corner bead. Labor would run you around $100.
I'm not a drywaller, but a painter, so I've met and worked behind many drywallers. Around here, they mostly charge by the square foot. Hanging, taping and mudding will generally run about $0.80-$1.00 per s.f., including materials. However, a small job like yours would be quite a bit more than that because it would be just a few hours spread out over several days--first day would be hanging and taping/1st coat, then a coat per day for two more days, then sand it on the fourth day. I'd agree with the $300 number for my area, though up to $500 wouldn't be a surprise.
Wow. That's a good sign the contractor don't want to do the job.
If I thought a job would be a pia, I would pad the bill, and make it high so the customer would say no
If the customer said yes, I would gladly do the job. Is it in a place that is hard to access? Might be worth your while to get the boards and supplies in the area.
Picture.....Hhhm, I'd have to go back and read one of the thousands of posts about how to post pictures. I'll get right on it.
One deal killer might be the fact this ceiling had mold inside it. I used the mold remover/clorine type products and scrubbed down. Tossed any contaminated insulation. Painted it with Killz, two coats. Painted all the steel (surface rusted steel) with primer. I suppose anyone with a contractor's license has to have the wheels turning in their head when they hear mold.
I'm going to consider plastic surgery because I must look stupid.
The plastic surgery was included in the second estimate. For 2550 including painting, I'll cya Monday...from Chicago.
Anyone good can knock all the operations out in a day. 1st coat duro 20, 2nd coat duro 45, final duro 45...all ez sand over paper tape only. Send them home if they try to use fiberglass mesh.
Cuts you do with a razor knife and a drywall saw. Measure it, market, cut it. secret to the screws, tight enough to hold the board, loose enough not to bust the paper.
Thanks for the tips. I am thinking the premixed crap in the box. I used some of that before with "acceptable" results in the garage portion. Paper tape--the stick-on mesh stuff looks so easy.....
I will need some corner beads. I saw paper/metal jobs that look like a better fit for what I'm doing. I heard plastics referred to as junk. Any thoughts on premix and plastic corner beads?
Last edited by 85e150; Mar 9, 2013 at 05:10 PM.
Reason: acknowledge multiple tips.
Particularly on ceilings (but a good idea for walls too) make sure you use drywall adhesive in addition to the screws. A bead at each framing/blocking member goes a LONG way toward resisting popped fasteners later from building movement.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.