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Drywalling cost?

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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 06:58 PM
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Drywalling cost?

I have a flat ceiling, approx 59" x 82", with two electrical boxes, a ventilation fan and a 14"x15" access panel. There is also a post in the middle of it, towards one end. This replaces the upper part of a cathedral ceiling, so the edges need to match up to the existing sloped drywall. Framing and backing are complete. There are two beams that need to be covered as well, which will consist of two strips of drywall about 4" wide by 8'. There are a couple other "blend in" issues.

Just for fun, can anyone give me a wag on what this should cost?
 
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 07:19 PM
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I used to price it by the sheet. 1 sheet is 4 operations.
1 drywall
2 tape
3 block
4 primer
It's been 10 years since I've done it for a living, but then it was $8 per operation, so a sheet cost $32 each sheet


Your job, I would have called the ceiling 5' x 8'. or 2 sheets. add 1 more sheet for the columns, and another $8 for installing corner bead. Labor would run you around $100.

Materials around $200

Keep in mind that was 10 years ago
 
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 07:34 PM
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I'm not a drywaller, but a painter, so I've met and worked behind many drywallers. Around here, they mostly charge by the square foot. Hanging, taping and mudding will generally run about $0.80-$1.00 per s.f., including materials. However, a small job like yours would be quite a bit more than that because it would be just a few hours spread out over several days--first day would be hanging and taping/1st coat, then a coat per day for two more days, then sand it on the fourth day. I'd agree with the $300 number for my area, though up to $500 wouldn't be a surprise.

Jason
 
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 07:37 PM
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Yeah, I forgot to mention the small job thing, so closer to the $500 mark.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 10:41 PM
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Thanks, that's what I was thinking.

First estimate: $680

Second estimate: $1950 + $600 to paint.

Third estimate: $1700 with paint.

I'm going to consider plastic surgery because I must look stupid.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 11:56 PM
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holy cow!
<><<
 
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 06:35 AM
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Wow. That's a good sign the contractor don't want to do the job.

If I thought a job would be a pia, I would pad the bill, and make it high so the customer would say no

If the customer said yes, I would gladly do the job. Is it in a place that is hard to access? Might be worth your while to get the boards and supplies in the area.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 10:22 AM
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Got a picture of it Ed?
 
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 04:22 PM
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Picture.....Hhhm, I'd have to go back and read one of the thousands of posts about how to post pictures. I'll get right on it.

One deal killer might be the fact this ceiling had mold inside it. I used the mold remover/clorine type products and scrubbed down. Tossed any contaminated insulation. Painted it with Killz, two coats. Painted all the steel (surface rusted steel) with primer. I suppose anyone with a contractor's license has to have the wheels turning in their head when they hear mold.

That, and you know how diy homeowners are.....
 
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 04:26 PM
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If the mold is cleaned up, there should be no issue.

Have you thought about hanging the rock? It's not all that hard.....

Taping kinda takes some trial and error, but that's what sandpaper is for


Check out you tube.....
 
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 04:31 PM
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I believe that is where I am headed. Seriously, around $50 for materials and maybe a couple tools.

Checked out the you-tubers, them boys make it look easy.

Hell, I learned to wire and plumb myself and it's not burned down or flooded yet. (maybe one is holding the other at bay...)
 
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 85e150six4mtod
Thanks, that's what I was thinking.

First estimate: $680

Second estimate: $1950 + $600 to paint.

Third estimate: $1700 with paint.

I'm going to consider plastic surgery because I must look stupid.
The plastic surgery was included in the second estimate. For 2550 including painting, I'll cya Monday...from Chicago.

Anyone good can knock all the operations out in a day. 1st coat duro 20, 2nd coat duro 45, final duro 45...all ez sand over paper tape only. Send them home if they try to use fiberglass mesh.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 04:45 PM
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Cuts you do with a razor knife and a drywall saw. Measure it, market, cut it. secret to the screws, tight enough to hold the board, loose enough not to bust the paper.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 04:51 PM
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Thanks for the tips. I am thinking the premixed crap in the box. I used some of that before with "acceptable" results in the garage portion. Paper tape--the stick-on mesh stuff looks so easy.....

I will need some corner beads. I saw paper/metal jobs that look like a better fit for what I'm doing. I heard plastics referred to as junk. Any thoughts on premix and plastic corner beads?
 

Last edited by 85e150; Mar 9, 2013 at 05:10 PM. Reason: acknowledge multiple tips.
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 04:53 PM
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Particularly on ceilings (but a good idea for walls too) make sure you use drywall adhesive in addition to the screws. A bead at each framing/blocking member goes a LONG way toward resisting popped fasteners later from building movement.
 
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