Drywalling cost?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6,243
Likes: 2
From: Chicago and Mt Carroll IL
Thanks for the tip. I am thinking the premixed crap in the box. I used some of that before with "acceptable" results in the garage portion. Paper tape--the stick-on mesh stuff looks so easy.....
I will need some corner beads. I saw paper/metal jobs that look like a better fit for what I'm doing. I heard plastics referred to as junk. Any thoughts on premix and plastic corner beads?
I will need some corner beads. I saw paper/metal jobs that look like a better fit for what I'm doing. I heard plastics referred to as junk. Any thoughts on premix and plastic corner beads?
On edit, be sure to coat both the cornerbead and drywall surfaces, its a contact cement.
Last edited by LMS Residential; Mar 9, 2013 at 04:58 PM. Reason: addendum
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6,243
Likes: 2
From: Chicago and Mt Carroll IL
I've yet to see (in 35 years of building) mesh tape that doesn't eventually crack open from subtle movement and seasonal expansion/contraction. It is an inferior product. Paper tape tends to move a bit with the substrate.
FTE Legend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 56,542
Likes: 0
From: In my own world
I like the lightweight mix for new users.
Put down a mud bed, set your pre- torn to lengths tape down. Hold the tape with a 4" knife, use a 6" knife to drag it flat.
Cover with a thin coat of mud with the 6" knife. Make sure to get it fairly smooth. Corners have to be folded, then put in the same way, one side at a time.
2nd day, use an 8" knife to "block" keep it smooth. Do corners one side at a time. You have plenty of time, stretch it out, and make sure the mud is dry before you put the next coat on.
they make a sander that hooks to a shop vac. it uses the wire screen sanding paper. Well worth it for a small job, it keeps the mess down.
After you sand put a coat of primer on, let it dry, then go back with the 6" knife, and patch any blemishes, those you can sand with a damp sponge. Once your satisfied, go ahead and paint
Put down a mud bed, set your pre- torn to lengths tape down. Hold the tape with a 4" knife, use a 6" knife to drag it flat.
Cover with a thin coat of mud with the 6" knife. Make sure to get it fairly smooth. Corners have to be folded, then put in the same way, one side at a time.
2nd day, use an 8" knife to "block" keep it smooth. Do corners one side at a time. You have plenty of time, stretch it out, and make sure the mud is dry before you put the next coat on.
they make a sander that hooks to a shop vac. it uses the wire screen sanding paper. Well worth it for a small job, it keeps the mess down.
After you sand put a coat of primer on, let it dry, then go back with the 6" knife, and patch any blemishes, those you can sand with a damp sponge. Once your satisfied, go ahead and paint
Thread Starter
|
Super Moderator
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 34,527
Likes: 2,831
I did a little searching and other research and found this is not unheard of with cathedral ceilings. Our neighbor had the problem in an upstairs bedroom and ended up having to replace rafters and roof sheathing. It's real trouble in Florida and other high humidity areas.
Cathedral Ceilings – Mold and Moisture – Problems and Solutions | Ted's Energy Tips
You can find all kinds of hits with a "cathedral ceiling mold" search.
Mine was built to be the sealed up type. Even if it had been built with eave vents, insulation baffles and a ridge vent, the humidity would have still condensed on the ceiling.
So, I now have a roof vent. I did not want to tear out the whole ceiling and put in eave vents. So, I will have the original insulated sloped ceiling, and the new flat section will have insulation on top of the drywall, with a mini attic above it, open via the dormer vent. In addition, I am putting a ventilation fan on a timer in the flat ceiling, along with a couple of passive vents, all ducted to that dormer vent.
It's probably not the best solution, but I have not seen anything better that does not involve more demo and cost.
Thread Starter
|
Super Moderator
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 34,527
Likes: 2,831
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
FTE Legend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 56,542
Likes: 0
From: In my own world
Use green board when you put it back together, that will help some. It's not waterproof, but is more resistant than regular gypsum board.
They make a purple board now, I see them using it outside here, but I'm not familiar enough with it to comment on it, so if anyone here knows anything, let us know.
I would also insulate with foam sheets and use metal tape to seal all the cuts and edges. Keep the foam about 1" below the roof surface, so there is an air pocket there, likewise, try to keep a 1" pocket of air on top of the drywall board.
I have cathedral ceilings in this house too. I ended up having to cut vents into the roof every 10', Halfway down the roof line
They make a purple board now, I see them using it outside here, but I'm not familiar enough with it to comment on it, so if anyone here knows anything, let us know.
I would also insulate with foam sheets and use metal tape to seal all the cuts and edges. Keep the foam about 1" below the roof surface, so there is an air pocket there, likewise, try to keep a 1" pocket of air on top of the drywall board.
I have cathedral ceilings in this house too. I ended up having to cut vents into the roof every 10', Halfway down the roof line
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6,243
Likes: 2
From: Chicago and Mt Carroll IL
Regular greenboard should not be used on ceilings unless the ceiling is framed @ 12" oc (USG spec). Even then greenboard on ceilings is not IBC or UBC compliant. Catastrophic failures (full ceiling collapse) have occured. The panels do not derive any strength along the axis as conventional drywall does.
The purple panels are manufacturer spec'd for ceilings but many building codes still do not approve that use.
National Gypsum Company
The purple panels are manufacturer spec'd for ceilings but many building codes still do not approve that use.
National Gypsum Company
Last edited by LMS Residential; Mar 10, 2013 at 05:09 PM. Reason: spelling
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post