Transmission? Electrical?
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Transmission? Electrical?
96 Ranger x cab 4.0 ltr automatic
Starts fine, runs fine until I stop.
When I stop, the engine idles oddly - it slows and speeds back up, tachometer and the battery gauges both lower just a bit and immediately return to normal. When the headlights are on, they dim in rhythm when the gauges dip. It does not do this in park or neutral.
Sometimes it does it right away. Sometimes it doesn't do this at all. Of course it did not do this when I took it to the shop. The battery is nearly new. Cables are fine. Alternator checked out ok.
Any help appreciated. Thanks!
Starts fine, runs fine until I stop.
When I stop, the engine idles oddly - it slows and speeds back up, tachometer and the battery gauges both lower just a bit and immediately return to normal. When the headlights are on, they dim in rhythm when the gauges dip. It does not do this in park or neutral.
Sometimes it does it right away. Sometimes it doesn't do this at all. Of course it did not do this when I took it to the shop. The battery is nearly new. Cables are fine. Alternator checked out ok.
Any help appreciated. Thanks!
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
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From: SW Va
Welcome to FTE.
Do you have a CEL lit, if so most autoparts stores will scan the engine computer for trouble codes, which can offer up good trouble shooting clues, so post All code Numbers.
Did the problem begin suddenly after some event & was it present before battery replacement????
EDIT: Seeing as how it doesn't do it in P or N, maybe suspect the torque converter is sticking/not unlocking. Does the OD light flash when it acts out??? If so, run this puppy by a trusted tranny shop to have them scan the tranny computer for trouble codes & post All numbers found.
Is the tranny fluid in good shape & has the tranny had regular scheduled maintanance filter & fluid changes over its lifetime with licensed fluids that meet or exceed Fords specifications???
The IAC is responsible for maintaining idle speed, so has it ever been removed for inspection, cleaned, or replaced???? More thoughts for consideration, with more feedback, maybe the Forum can make a more focused guess.
Do you have a CEL lit, if so most autoparts stores will scan the engine computer for trouble codes, which can offer up good trouble shooting clues, so post All code Numbers.
Did the problem begin suddenly after some event & was it present before battery replacement????
EDIT: Seeing as how it doesn't do it in P or N, maybe suspect the torque converter is sticking/not unlocking. Does the OD light flash when it acts out??? If so, run this puppy by a trusted tranny shop to have them scan the tranny computer for trouble codes & post All numbers found.
Is the tranny fluid in good shape & has the tranny had regular scheduled maintanance filter & fluid changes over its lifetime with licensed fluids that meet or exceed Fords specifications???
The IAC is responsible for maintaining idle speed, so has it ever been removed for inspection, cleaned, or replaced???? More thoughts for consideration, with more feedback, maybe the Forum can make a more focused guess.
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Rough idle only in gean
Thanks for the welcome, and the response Pawpaw.
There's no warning lights coming on - no check engine light, no lit flashing OD warning.
I took it to Auto Zone for the engine computer scan and they said the 1996 Ranger doesn't have the plug to hook up to their scan system.
The problem started suddenly. The idle is fine when I first drive, the roughness starts after the truck has warmed up.
The battery was replaced a few months ago - long before the idle issue began.
The transmission fluid is reddish and doesn't smell burned. But the dip stick is corroded with red grit, and the fluid is gritty.
I inherited the truck. Dad didn't drive much, so I doubt that he had any maintenance done on it. It has 110,000 miles on it.
There's no warning lights coming on - no check engine light, no lit flashing OD warning.
I took it to Auto Zone for the engine computer scan and they said the 1996 Ranger doesn't have the plug to hook up to their scan system.
The problem started suddenly. The idle is fine when I first drive, the roughness starts after the truck has warmed up.
The battery was replaced a few months ago - long before the idle issue began.
The transmission fluid is reddish and doesn't smell burned. But the dip stick is corroded with red grit, and the fluid is gritty.
I inherited the truck. Dad didn't drive much, so I doubt that he had any maintenance done on it. It has 110,000 miles on it.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
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From: SW Va
With the mileage on this tranny filter & fluid, they've lived 3-4 lifetimes & with it feeling gritty, which isn't good, as that grit can muck up things in the valve body, ect, so maybe consider dropping the tranny pan to empty & clean it, the pan magnet, replace the tranny filter, reinstall the pan & replace/refill the fluid, then with the engine at idle speed, continue on with a full tranny system fluid pumpout, via the disconnected tranny fluid return line, as outlined here, because most of the old fluid resides in the valve body, torque converter, cooler & lines & keep us posted on how it goes.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-pump-out.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-pump-out.html
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: suburban atlanta
Take a look for vacuum leaks, and check the IAC for cleanliness and operation. It should bump the throttle when you engage the A/C compressor, and when you turn the steering wheel, adding a bit of power steering pump load. It should also give a higher idle when the engine is cold, and then step down the idle chunk by chunk as the engine warms. You can watch it do its thing from cold just by starting the engine, noting the tach rpms, and letting it get warm.
1996 was the first year of OBD-II requirements, I believe. Get out your owners manual and see if the diagnostic connector is mentioned. I also think that by law, the connector must be within 3 feet of the steering wheel. Look under the bottom edge of the instrument panel directly below the steering column for an open connector. Just sittin' there all pretty by itself...
tom
1996 was the first year of OBD-II requirements, I believe. Get out your owners manual and see if the diagnostic connector is mentioned. I also think that by law, the connector must be within 3 feet of the steering wheel. Look under the bottom edge of the instrument panel directly below the steering column for an open connector. Just sittin' there all pretty by itself...
tom
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