6.0 engine romp
a noticable difference in sound, at idle and even when driving. could this also be the ebt sensor even though it's an 06. I have had the compression checked and it's perfect and there are no misses at all. please advise
a noticable difference in sound, at idle and even when driving. could this also be the ebt sensor even though it's an 06. I have had the compression checked and it's perfect and there are no misses at all. please advise
Trust me,i deal with all sorts of turbos.....all day....even turbos for sea doos! So trust me/us/FTE....test the turbo!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...noise-now.html
I'm $2,300.00 into making the thump thump go away.


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There's 12 pages of what I found and what I had to do to locate the problem.
Read through it. I found a bad lifter on the #6 cyl. exhaust side.
My truck stopped running all together prompting me to dig in.
The lifter fell apart spilling the needle bearings everywhere including in the lpop. Took the pump out causing the engine to quit.
Pull the drivers side valve cover off. Turn the crank over by hand and observe the rocker arms. My rocker for the #6 exh. valve was real loose almost like ready to fall off.
There should be pressure on the pushrods in the combustion stroke to hold the pushrod securly against the rocker arm. My rod was loose to the point where I could grab it and move it in and out about 1/4".
The rocker should be fairly secured on their pivots. Mine was real wobbly when in the combustion stroke when there was nominal lobe pressure on the lifter/pushrod linkage.
The bad lifter was not opening the valves enough during the exhaust stroke leaving some of the combustion to be expelled during the intake stroke hence the thump, thump noise I had.
I also noticed that the rocker was missing the pad that rides on the bridge for the two exhaust valves.
If I were you I would not run the engine until the valve cover is removed and an inspection done as mentioned. If you continue to run it this way you could risk a damaged lpop, front cover and seal, plus oil cooler, and cam damage. Once the cam is damaged then the whole engine will need to be pulled and disassembled.
It may need to be removed even still if one of the lifters in the last four rearward locations is damaged as you can't get to those lifters with out pulling the engine.
Look at my thread completely. You'll see pictures of what I found.
I'm just now starting to put together my engine after the cam was repaired, and new parts replacing damaged ones..
With yours still running you may still have a chance to save the engine from getting damaged further. So you may at this point be ahead of the game.
Let us know what you find..
Also a compression test will show good. No problem with the valves sealing.
There's 12 pages of what I found and what I had to do to locate the problem.
Read through it. I found a bad lifter on the #6 cyl. exhaust side.
My truck stopped running all together prompting me to dig in.
The lifter fell apart spilling the needle bearings everywhere including in the lpop. Took the pump out causing the engine to quit.
Pull the drivers side valve cover off. Turn the crank over by hand and observe the rocker arms. My rocker for the #6 exh. valve was real loose almost like ready to fall off.
There should be pressure on the pushrods in the combustion stroke to hold the pushrod securly against the rocker arm. My rod was loose to the point where I could grab it and move it in and out about 1/4".
The rocker should be fairly secured on their pivots. Mine was real wobbly when in the combustion stroke when there was nominal lobe pressure on the lifter/pushrod linkage.
The bad lifter was not opening the valves enough during the exhaust stroke leaving some of the combustion to be expelled during the intake stroke hence the thump, thump noise I had.
I also noticed that the rocker was missing the pad that rides on the bridge for the two exhaust valves.
If I were you I would not run the engine until the valve cover is removed and an inspection done as mentioned. If you continue to run it this way you could risk a damaged lpop, front cover and seal, plus oil cooler, and cam damage. Once the cam is damaged then the whole engine will need to be pulled and disassembled.
It may need to be removed even still if one of the lifters in the last four rearward locations is damaged as you can't get to those lifters with out pulling the engine.
Look at my thread completely. You'll see pictures of what I found.
I'm just now starting to put together my engine after the cam was repaired, and new parts replacing damaged ones..
With yours still running you may still have a chance to save the engine from getting damaged further. So you may at this point be ahead of the game.
Let us know what you find..
Also a compression test will show good. No problem with the valves sealing.








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