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Well of the things listed, maybe put the oil filter on your suspect list, as Fram usually have less filter media & thus less surface area than the Motorcraft ot Purolator filters, so trying to push the cold/thicker 11ct Valvolene through a filter with less media surface area, the top end of the OHC engine may be lacking in getting enough cold lube to keep it happy, as it likes to get plenty of lube up there right away on a cold start & the Motorcraft & Purolator filters with more media surface area can pass higher viscosity/cold lube faster, to do a quicker top end lube job on a cold start.
Maybe also consider trying a 5w30 with a lower cold viscosity number would also help on cold starts, as it would flow faster through the filter & to the top end when cold.
Some thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.
04 4.0 150k
I have "tick" coming from the top end when cold.
Any ideas
Oil is religiously changed every 3000 which is about every month and a half
Have a read through this thread & see if any of the 4.0L noises sound familar. I know these are the OHV, not the OHC 4.0, but maybe something will stand out & make sense. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ohv-noise.html
I ALWAYS do HOT oil change. By that I mean, when I get home from my 50+ mile commute, I pull in th derive, hit the garage door opener, pull in the garage, get out of truck(leave it running), kick the drain pan under the truck and grab creeper. SHut truck off, slide under the truck and open the fomoto valve. I let the truck sit for at least 10 min to allow all the oil to drain. While it is draining, I fill the oil filter. then when the oil STOPPS dripping, I spin the oil filter off and replace it with a new one. Like I said, I have done this for the last 75k, never had an issue
Talked to the local ford garage. They said it is semi common for the hydraulic timing chain tensioner to get some sludge/dirt in ti and not build up the pressure till the oil warms up and thins out. I put 1/2 a can of seafoam in and the noise is now gone in 2 days. I have about 1000 more miles on the oil change
I just replace the Timing chain tensioners in hopes that they were not pumping up enough. But that made no difference. Tonight I pulled the drivers valve cover expecting to see the chain guide broke or worn thru. NOPE, they are fine.
I fired the engine up and use my pry bar as a stethoscope. The only place making any noise is the 1st "bearing" for the cam. The one right behind the timing gear. The bolts are tight.
Wasn't thinking of suggesting to go out of spec on viscosity, was wondering what the hot viscosity was on what you Were running when you added the Seafoam, to kinda try & figure how much adding it lowered Hot viscosity & what the Hot viscosity is on what you are using now????
You are correct not to go below 5W-30 on the 4.0L, as thats whats Factory specified for it, as its oil pump never got upgraded to be able to supply enough volume when using 5W-20. So its the oils Hot viscosity we need to pay attention to on the 4.0L!!!!
Don't know what brand/hot viscosity oil you were using when you had success when using the Seafoam, or are now using, but 30wt Hot viscosity can vary a lot, from being on the low end of spec & close to a heavy 20wt, all the way up to the high end of spec & being close to a thin 40wt & still be in grade!!!!
SO, if you've come to think the lower viscosity/thinning of the oil you were using, caused by adding the Seafoam, was partly the reason for the tic being fixed in two days, maybe consider looking up the Hot viscosity spec number on the available 5W-30 oils you have access to & choose one thats on the low end of the 30wt viscosity range. There are some that are low enough to be close to a heavy 20wt out there. If you choose one known to have a good detergent ad pack, including a synthetic recipe & one with lower viscosity but still in grade, you might be able to tweak things & fix the tic, while staying in viscosity grade.