Hi Guys,

A quick question - Will those Sanderson "Shorty" Headers basically bolt right up, and fit in where the cast iron exhaust manifold used to be? In other words, if you have a decent 2.5" dual exhaust system w/crossover already in place, could you remover the exhaust manifolds, and pop in the Shorties? I have a 71 Ranger XLT w/360.

Thanks,
Bob

The Sanderson FF427 header set is designed to fit 1953-Up Ford F100 pickups using the Ford 332-428 FE engines.

 

I wouldn't see why not? Unless the flange that connects the header to the pipe don't fit?

 

The shorties will bolt right in but you'll have to mate up the header collectors to exhaust tubing. Some fabbing is required but even a caveman can do it... I'd pick up a couple of U-bends to bridge the gap.

 

I have a set and thought danm san jose PD will get me first before getting to babe's muffler shop 8 mile away. Hmm so picked up some 2.5 flex exh. pipe clamped in place and drove to the M-shop This worked for me.. orich

 

So, then......those Sanderson "Shorties" are, in fact, just about the same overall size as the stock cast iron exhaust manifold, just with a bigger collector?

I could see where we might have to weld a new end onto the existing dual exhaust that begins at the flange so it would bolt up to the Shorties - but that would be it, eh?

If anyone has any close up pictures of a set of Sandersons on an FE/F100 I'd appreciate it. I just have to make sure this is going to fly before I pull the trigger.

Thanks Guys,
Bob

 

Per your request:



3/8ths-inch thick flanges:

 

Thanks for the pictures. They certainly don't look the same size as the stock exhaust manifold. This was what I was wondering about. On the web site (The Sanderson FF427 header set is designed to fit 1953-Up Ford F100 pickups using the Ford 332-428 FE engines.) it shows a picture at the top that looks a lot like the ones you posted here. Then, at the bottom, it shows an entirely different picture, along with measurements that make it look lots more like the standard manifold - only with a bigger collector.

Now the dumb, newbie question......what is a U-Bend, and where do you buy one? Is this just a piece of 2.5" pipe in the shape of a "U"? I was hoping it would be a little "cleaner" fit than that. This was the premise of me bringing this subject up......

I had an awful exhaust leak and was wanting to put headers on. But, I read so much about them being a tough fit, they'd leak, ruin the starter, etc., I was concerned. But, I had to do something, or I'd get pulled over (it was loud!). So.......I had a really good shop in town run me a true dual exhaust with 2.5" straight back with glasspaks and a crossover pipe ($350). They did an excellent job! Then, when he was all finished, found out that there was still a bad leak in the drivers side manifold (can hold your hand over it, and feel it).

So, I can either:

1. Just replace the exhaust gasket for now.
2. Get a better type of cast iron manifold, put it on w/new gasket.
3. Replace exhaust manifolds with Shorties (if they'll pretty much bolt right in).

So, there ya have it! A day in the life of a Ford Truck owner (who's short on cash right now, but loves his truck!)

P.S. - What's the deal with the "ribbed" exhaust manifold? Is that a step above what I have now? I may have to do something like that in the interim.

Thanks,
Bob

 

Hey Bob... Those are actual pics of FF427 headers on my living room floor. I think maybe that pic they use is for simple dimensional clearances.

A U-bend? It is a formed piece of exhaust tubing that you can cut apart to fab up for a custom system. Ya just cut off what ya need to achieve a desired angle. U-bends are available from Summit or Jeg's in aluminized steel or stainless.

Still have an exhaust leak, eh? I had the same situation...just don't let it be for too long because the exhaust pulses can wear away the manifold flange. My rig had an exhaust leak when I bought it and replacing the donut did no good. I only found out after pulling the manifold and looking at it. Luckily I had a spare manifold from my 73 but it was a flat flange (no donut).

If short on moolah, then replace the gasket. Save up for the Sandersons... or put it on your birthday wishlist.

Ribbed manifold? It's a ribbed section of exhaust tubing which flexes. They're horrible for performance due to the turbulence they create. Orich was simply stating he used them so he could limp to the muffler shop without getting a ticket.

 

Thanks Guys.

The "ribbed manifold" I was speaking of was one of these: RibbedEM1.jpg Photo by dustman_stx | Photobucket

I've been researching potential different avenues to go down. If I needed to actually replace the exhaust manifold, I heard that these were sort of a "step up" from the stock manifolds.

At this point in time, I will most likely just replace the gasket (gotta go from pt. A to pt. B right now). Is there a good brand/type of exhaust manifold gasket to get?

I'm just hoping the bolts don't break off! Somebody said to spray them down with Penetrating Oil (PB Blaster?) for several days before attempting to remove the bolts. Is it wise to go back with new bolts? If so, whats a good kind to get?

Heading to the barn now - Gotta feed the goats!
Bob

 

Whoa... I've never seen those manifolds. What a trip!

Fel-Pro gaskets I suggest for an OEM application. For headers, lots guys in here recommend "dead soft" aluminum or copper.

Yeah, PB Blaster or Kroil. Throw in a few prayers that those bolts come off without breaking. I got lucky on both my rigs... the POs actually used anti-seize. Talk about relief! I was totally dreading it. Whew!!!!

 

I see those exh. manifold on the 73-76 drivers side only. The sanderson 427 fe headers are known as block hugger and just clear the oil pan bolt edge side rail then a quick turn at the collector pipe. Plus you'll never get too the block drain plugs again with these once installed. Best too install a new mini starter if you don't want too have to remove the whole header to get the starter off because there's only about a 1/2" clearance with the stock oem starter..:
Also if your running an H cross over pipe you'll some day wish you had the muffler shop install a bolt together double face flange with a gasket to separate pipes this makes life easier when you ever have to remove your starter or for any other reason. Do this makes it a hell of a lot easier to deal with the weight of one pipe or having to fight with the other side being bolted up..my 2cents..orich

 

Thanks for sharing all the info, guys. This will help me a lot. Overall, it looks like these Shorties would mate up with my existing dual exhaust with minimal tweeking/fab work. They will go on the wish list for now.

I'll buy a Fel Pro exhaust manifold gasket, and do the swap this next week probably. What do you do if a bolt breaks? - Pull the Head, and take it to a machine shop? If I get 'em all out okay, should I put new bolts back in when re-installing w/new gasket? I will use some anti-sieze on these puppies, you betcha!

Thanks,
Bob

 

Replace old bolts with grade 8. best to use the bolts that don't extend out the other side of the threaded boss as the tips will rust in time and add to-making them hard to backing them out through the threaded mounting boss next time you want to remove them. This is the main reason they break.: I've always use anti-seize on the threads and added washers to keep the the threads from extending out the back side. Some guys who break them drill them out and just end up using a nut & bolt since they wiped out the threads with a drill bit. This for the upper bolts by the spark plugs area. The lower bolts are not a problem:..orich

 

Quality Info, Orich. Thanks. That really helps. Sounds like you may have done this before!

Bob