Lights and Wiring
#16
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charles Town, W bygod Va
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I would wire it so all of the marker lights run off of the relay. As mentioned, the switch and plug for the headlights and markers is a weak point.
On my 86, the wire to the factory cab lights runs up the drivers rear door post. I think you may find a wire that is hot with the lights on already run to that corner near the floor. I would also go with a 20 or 30 amp relay even though 15 should be plenty.
On my 86, the wire to the factory cab lights runs up the drivers rear door post. I think you may find a wire that is hot with the lights on already run to that corner near the floor. I would also go with a 20 or 30 amp relay even though 15 should be plenty.
#17
I would not put an extra load on the light switch and that is why the relay. The light switch and plug melt already a lot of the times. If any thing I would also relive some of the load off the brown wire that it has now.
The wire color is brown as I said above but I do think I said anything about taking power off a coil to a relay to do anything.
If you put the relay under the hood I would tap the brown wire at C100 in the engine compartment.
If you put the relay inside the cab I would tap the brown wire at the warning buzzer.
See the diagran below.
/
The wire color is brown as I said above but I do think I said anything about taking power off a coil to a relay to do anything.
If you put the relay under the hood I would tap the brown wire at C100 in the engine compartment.
If you put the relay inside the cab I would tap the brown wire at the warning buzzer.
See the diagran below.
/
#18
The bulb has 3 wires to it. Based on what I just said, that could be the case if two of them are power (hot) wires. But, it could be that there are 2 ground wires and one hot wire, and the filaments are just controlled by which one's grounded. If this is the case, it should work fine to hook up my clearance light relay off of there. Do you know which of those wires right at the front drivers side parking light it what I need to tap, and if it's setup like I just said?
#19
I would not put an extra load on the light switch and that is why the relay. The light switch and plug melt already a lot of the times. If any thing I would also relive some of the load off the brown wire that it has now.
The wire color is brown as I said above but I do think I said anything about taking power off a coil to a relay to do anything.
If you put the relay under the hood I would tap the brown wire at C100 in the engine compartment.
If you put the relay inside the cab I would tap the brown wire at the warning buzzer.
See the diagran below.
/
The wire color is brown as I said above but I do think I said anything about taking power off a coil to a relay to do anything.
If you put the relay under the hood I would tap the brown wire at C100 in the engine compartment.
If you put the relay inside the cab I would tap the brown wire at the warning buzzer.
See the diagran below.
/
#20
If you want to take some of the load off the headlight switch, why not wire a relay to the headlights? That's where most of the load comes from anyway. No need to hack up or splice wires and make a mess when the factory provides what you need anyway. Plus, with a relay on the headlights, you'll get more output from greater voltage.
#21
I want to run stuff very similar to yours. I've got the lights for the front grille like you (bought them yesterday), and I'm going to put on roof lights or visor lights. Plus, I may put some small tail lights on my tool box or on a headache rack.
#24
Thanks for doing that for me! I'll try to get the grille lights hooked up tonight. I already made up the wiring for power and ground for them (a bit of soldering and heat shrinking bits of wire so I only have to run 1 wire to power and 1 wire to ground for all 3 lights).
I'll post a pic after I get it done!
I'll post a pic after I get it done!
#28
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1bad67sbf
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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03-28-2010 11:56 AM