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About a month ago, my dual front stabilizers wore out, and as a result my truck had a death wobble happen. After that incident my truck started pulling to the right. At the time my tires were wore out pretty good, and I have since replaced them. I wanted to see if the new tires would have any impact on the drifting before I took it in for an alignment. After the new tires, the drift was the same, so I had an alignment done on it. And after the alignment, it still pulls to the right. The guy at the tire shop told me that everything was in spec. I told him that my concern was tire wear, I asked him, if it's pulling to the right, will the tires wear unevenly, even though the alignment is "to spec", and he said the tires should still wear evenly. I'm no expert, but if you have to drive with a constant correction on the steering wheel for the drift, won't this eventually cause the tires to wear unevenly/prematurely? He also said said they could add a camber shim, which could counter act the drift, but that would not be the ideal set up. I'm a little confused, I always thought an alignment was to keep the vehicle driving straight?? Is there truth to his logic, or is he blowing smoke?
Alignment is to keep the front end aligned and to drive straight i would try another alignment shop like the dealer and if it fixes it then demand your money back from other shop . You gave them 2 chances and they failed if they give you a hard time tell them you will file with the b.b.b. they over looked something or they are just doing a bump and go as they call it. ( Push tires until readings are in spec)
My first question, since you have an 06 coil spring truck and a 6" lift, is what have you done to correct the track bar centering, and adjust the castor back. Lifting the truck puts both of those way way out so you have to accommodate that. Front alignment is simple on these trucks. First you have to center the steering box, or it can cause pull. With the steering box perfectly centered you adjust the drag link so the passenger side wheel has correct toe-in. Then you adjust the tie bar so the drivers side wheel has correct toe-in. Then you set the castor and camber. Adjusting the castor to a little over the high side of spec is a good idea. Death wobble is usually a combination of too little castor and worn or loose track bar bushings, the stabilizers are in addition to those two things (assuming the normal front end stuff is up to snuff). The other thing that causes pull is not having equal or correct castor on both sides.
You also could have a Bad Unit bearing on the right side causing Pull
Or if 4x4 a Right side Hub issue
Or even a BAD Balljoint
I would think the Alignment guy should have caught any of these But it dont sound like they are very good if they did the alignment and didnt find your problem or they just Blasted right threw it
I personally haven't done anything, other than take it in for the alignment. I'll take a look at the track bar bushings, and maybe replace them just for good measure. Prior to the death wobble incident, I have never had an alignment issue since I've owned the truck (since"06). Even with the lift, which I've had since 2009, has never introduced any noticable steering issues. With the violent shake of the death wobble, I'm sure something had to be knocked out of whack. I'm thinking I'll just take the truck back in, and have them re-do the alignment until it tracks good. Are the track bar bushings easily replaced? And what about centering the track bar, is there a trick to it, any special tools?
Do you suppose somthing could have damged these during the DW incident? Any way to test this out without tearing things apart too badly?
The DW could have made it worse IDK Odds are somethings worn anyways
I have front leafsprings so this Might not be 100% Correct since you have Coil
but I Pull the front tires to check those things
Its easier with the front tires off for me I know some guys check the Balljoints with the Tires ON you Must overcome the weight of the tire to check the Balljoints though
With the front tires Off I grab the Rotor and Try to move it on the verticle Line if you feel any play the Balljoint is Bad
Also with the tires off you can check the unit bearings they should spin Even/Smoothly and no play. You can also pull the Axel shaft and see if its been worn from a Bad bearing. You might need to pull the Hub off to check axel for play
With a 6" lift the stock trackbar can't (well, shouldn't) be used, so you probably got an aftermarket one with the kit. You'll have to figure that out for yourself. Same with the castor adjustment - it should be done and there are different approaches that could be used. Who installed the lift for you? I would find a shop that specializes in lifted trucks and have them inspect it, if you don't have the background to do that yourself.
did you get a print out of the aligment before and after? if not make them do it again and watch them do it. It is way to easy to fool the machine to give you correct readings without touching any adjustments. If the caster is out this will cause your pull/drift but aslo a slipped belt in the tire can cause it. swap the front tires side to side and see if it changes.
I know my OE sway bar was used with my 6 inch lift but the Bracket that holds it to the frame was changed but its also the Leafspring front end early style
I havent had a Alignment done for Years you can use a Tapemeasure and some Oldschool methods and a coouple test drives and Dial it right in
Or atleast you could see how close the shop got
Like the other Poster Mentioned it could be Tire Pull I have had that happen before with a New set of tires. A simple Tire rotation Fixed it
One other thing is check the force required to rotate the tire
on the axel on both sides. You may find one side had a lot more
drag. If that is the case have a good look at the brakes first.
Next make sure that the hub is not locked and dragging the
axel shaft.
Initially I had the lift put on at 4wheelparts. However, since I was only having new tires put on, I took it to a different 4WD shop that was closer to me. Then I figured what the heck, I'll have them do an alignment while I'm there, but they told me my truck would not fit on their alignment rack, so they recommended a local tire shop to take it to, which I did.
I did get a printout from them, these are are before and after results;
Before
LS Camber: 0.0°, RS Camber: -0.2°
LS Caster: 5.7°, RS Caster: 5.8°
LS Toe: 0.28°, RS Toe: 0.34°
After
LS Camber: 0.1°, RS Camber: -0.1°
LS Caster: 5.7°, RS Caster: 5.8°
LS Toe: 0.00°, RS Toe: 0.03°
Also, I did swap the two front tires to see if it would help, and I didn't notice any difference.
I'm going to see if I can pull the tires off and check the ball joints, and also check for play and drag, as you guys suggested.