When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Last time I checked the 400 rod was 6.580 Long ..........
IN a STOCK 400......
Ya it looks like it would work but 9.5 to 1 won't make it in my world ..
14.5 to 1 is more like it .......
And I think it's a Scat Cast steel Crank Not a Drop forged Steel one like I run .
But then with 9.5 and making it a Street Motor it should work just fine .
Originally posted by rogue69 "Besides anyone can put a 460 in .. It takes real talent to get a 400 to put out 500 H.p."
And a hell of a lot more $$$$$$$
Actually, it is very easy to make 500 HP with a 400...and not really very expensive. A set of decent factory iron CC 351C-4V quench heads with some work with a die grinder, sanding rolls and common sense...a set of 12.5:1 TRW pistons...a nice solid lifter cam such as the Comp Cams 32-240-4...adjustable valve train and decent, aluminum roller rocker arms and very good valve springs. Stock bottom end with just reconditioned rods and ARP rod bolts, an Edelbrock Torker 4V intake and a 750 vacuum secondary carb with secondary metering plate to metering block conversion...a factory late model electronic ignition with the advanced locked out...and you have a fairly easy 518 HP / 493 TQ with about $1400-1700 into it...plus or minus depending on availability of parts in your area...without a stroker kit and without anything more "special" than buying a used set of 4V heads ($250-300 in most places) and reconditioning them properly and mods for screw-in studs, guideplates and very good springs. If you have to go with a longer set of valves (+.100"), then it will eat up another $250...but it is worth it to get some good Manley stainless, taper stem valves that can take more spring (installed) height. Some good shopping around skills and using eBay, you should be able to trim some fat off of the price tag, too.
Also, I'm fairly sure that "someone" didn't "last time I looked" at the 400-M rod length, since it is 6.580" from the factory. The deck is a nominal 10.3" and a 6.25" rod is only about a quarter inch too short. These rods are longer than factory big block Chevy rods, which are 6.135" with a 9.8" deck...now if the 400-M block just had a 4.180" bore!
A lot of people call the 400-M a "big block" ...partially because it is relatively large internally (dimensions and CID), but also because it (and the 351-M) shares the same bellhousing pattern with the 429/460 BBF. However, its factory cylinder heads are definitely small block in a big way and when combined with a set of 4V heads, you have a 400 with factory valve sizes nearly equal to that of a 454 BBC...at 2.19"/1.71" for the 4V and 2.19"/1.88" for the BBC...in a small block sized package!
The 400-M is certainly the heaviest "small block" Ford, but you can make 430 HP/ 430 TQ with a dual plane, hydraulic flat tappet cam and 10.0:1 compression on pump gas.
...the most expensive part of a 500 HP 400-M is the common sense!
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.