Squishy Brakes
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2013
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From: VA
Okay thanks! I'll look for them on the drums. Hopefully I'll get it done soon. Is there any good way to do it by yourself, or should I just get someone to help me with it to press on the pedal?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,437
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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
It will usually gravity bleed, just open the bleeders or remove them if they are clogged and fluid should flow. First empty the reservoir if you can, fill it with clean fluid and let it gravity bleed until you get clean fluid at the wheels. Leave the cap off the reservoir to let air in and don't let it run dry!
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
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From: South Dakota
When loosening the bleeder fitting use a six cornered wrench or socket, if you can get on it with a socket, so you don't round the corners and have a bigger job on your hands. Many times the bleeder valve will be plugged with dirt, in which case you have to completely unscrew it and open it with drill bits, one from the front and a smaller one from the side.
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Posting Guru
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From: VA
Gravity bleeding may work if bleeding them by yourself. Leave the top off the master cylinder so you don't create a vacuum lock. Loosen the bleeder screw and the fluid should start flowing. Don't let the master cylinder go dry of brake fluid. Start with the cylinder farthest from the master cylinder and progressively work closer.
When loosening the bleeder fitting use a six cornered wrench or socket, if you can get on it with a socket, so you don't round the corners and have a bigger job on your hands. Many times the bleeder valve will be plugged with dirt, in which case you have to completely unscrew it and open it with drill bits, one from the front and a smaller one from the side.
When loosening the bleeder fitting use a six cornered wrench or socket, if you can get on it with a socket, so you don't round the corners and have a bigger job on your hands. Many times the bleeder valve will be plugged with dirt, in which case you have to completely unscrew it and open it with drill bits, one from the front and a smaller one from the side.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,533
Likes: 17
From: SW Florida
Grab 2 of the big bottles that the parts store usually has... that should be enough if you want to clear out the old fluid and you'll have some left for if you ever need it. You can purge the old fluid out by adding new fluid and doing a brake bleed but I find it easier to just pull the lines at the master, crack all the bleeders open, and blow down the brake lines with air. Then reconnect, refill, and bleed. This will make a nasty mess at each brake assembly so have plenty of rags around, and a catch pan.
On that note, my brakes are like that too. I've never seen the self-adjusters work properly... even after doing a brake job with all new parts.
Mine I have to step on once, release, then step on again to get the rears to fully engage.
Definitely not a safety issue yet because I can still move things from the back of the cab to the front using only the brake pedal
but I plan on servicing the rear brakes anyhow.
On that note, my brakes are like that too. I've never seen the self-adjusters work properly... even after doing a brake job with all new parts.
Mine I have to step on once, release, then step on again to get the rears to fully engage.
Definitely not a safety issue yet because I can still move things from the back of the cab to the front using only the brake pedal
but I plan on servicing the rear brakes anyhow.
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Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2013
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From: VA
Grab 2 of the big bottles that the parts store usually has... that should be enough if you want to clear out the old fluid and you'll have some left for if you ever need it. You can purge the old fluid out by adding new fluid and doing a brake bleed but I find it easier to just pull the lines at the master, crack all the bleeders open, and blow down the brake lines with air. Then reconnect, refill, and bleed. This will make a nasty mess at each brake assembly so have plenty of rags around, and a catch pan.
On that note, my brakes are like that too. I've never seen the self-adjusters work properly... even after doing a brake job with all new parts.
Mine I have to step on once, release, then step on again to get the rears to fully engage.
Definitely not a safety issue yet because I can still move things from the back of the cab to the front using only the brake pedal but I plan on servicing the rear brakes anyhow.
On that note, my brakes are like that too. I've never seen the self-adjusters work properly... even after doing a brake job with all new parts.
Mine I have to step on once, release, then step on again to get the rears to fully engage.
Definitely not a safety issue yet because I can still move things from the back of the cab to the front using only the brake pedal
but I plan on servicing the rear brakes anyhow.Yeah, I don't completely trust the "self adjustment." I know I can adjust that star ring thing and get them to grip.
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Posting Guru
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From: VA
Adjusted the drums, didn't get much from that.
I'm thinking now that the issue may have to do with the ABS valve thing (what is the correct term?). It's the thing that all of the brake lines connect to on the frame under the firewall on the drivers side. I talked with a mechanic (that I trust), and he said that it was very common for this generation F-series to have issues with that valve. He said that the valve has an internal seal that will start leaking, and it will cause the sinking brake pedal issue.
He told me to connect all of the brake lines together right there at that valve and just leave the valve bypassed. What would I do this with? Some type of connector block for the brake lines I guess, but I don't know what terms to use to find it. Still not sure whether it's best to replace the valve piece or to bypass it. Seems like bypassing it would be the cheaper option, but not sure it's the best.
What do you guys think?
I'm thinking now that the issue may have to do with the ABS valve thing (what is the correct term?). It's the thing that all of the brake lines connect to on the frame under the firewall on the drivers side. I talked with a mechanic (that I trust), and he said that it was very common for this generation F-series to have issues with that valve. He said that the valve has an internal seal that will start leaking, and it will cause the sinking brake pedal issue.
He told me to connect all of the brake lines together right there at that valve and just leave the valve bypassed. What would I do this with? Some type of connector block for the brake lines I guess, but I don't know what terms to use to find it. Still not sure whether it's best to replace the valve piece or to bypass it. Seems like bypassing it would be the cheaper option, but not sure it's the best.
What do you guys think?
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2011
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ABS on your year module of truck was only for the rear brakes, and when it would fail the rear brakes would be touchy or non altogether, not squishy.
Now the long travel can be caused by two things, ether improper actuator rod length, or ballooning rubber lines.
Based off of how you described it, in your first post, ("The brake pedal has about 3 inches of room where I can press down and all it'll do is turn on the brake lights. ") I was thinking the PO had improperly installed the brake booster. But, as I read in post 5 ("The brakes grip a little bit for the first about 3 inches, then they grip much better.") it sounds more like degraded rubber brake lines, that are ballooning on you.
Check the size and shape of your brake lines without any brake pressure, then have someone press hard on the brake(not to fast, don't what to blow the seals in the master), see if the line changes shape.
Even if they don't change size or shape, if they are over 6 years old, I would change em....
Now the long travel can be caused by two things, ether improper actuator rod length, or ballooning rubber lines.
Based off of how you described it, in your first post, ("The brake pedal has about 3 inches of room where I can press down and all it'll do is turn on the brake lights. ") I was thinking the PO had improperly installed the brake booster. But, as I read in post 5 ("The brakes grip a little bit for the first about 3 inches, then they grip much better.") it sounds more like degraded rubber brake lines, that are ballooning on you.
Check the size and shape of your brake lines without any brake pressure, then have someone press hard on the brake(not to fast, don't what to blow the seals in the master), see if the line changes shape.
Even if they don't change size or shape, if they are over 6 years old, I would change em....
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 196
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From: Milwaukee, Wi
That rear abs valve is really useful, especially when driving with an empty bed. I can tell you for sure they have helped save my *** many times when it comes to stopping for stupid drivers in the city and stopping for deer when Im going 70 mph in the country. Id replace is but if you don't want to just take a couple inches of brake line, the proper coupler or adapter to connect them, and then really tighten them together. Now dont yell at me if you already tried this but have you tried bleeding the RABS (rear abs valve)? There is a bleeder screw on there just like the calipers and wheel cylinders
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2013
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From: VA
That rear abs valve is really useful, especially when driving with an empty bed. I can tell you for sure they have helped save my *** many times when it comes to stopping for stupid drivers in the city and stopping for deer when Im going 70 mph in the country. Id replace is but if you don't want to just take a couple inches of brake line, the proper coupler or adapter to connect them, and then really tighten them together. Now dont yell at me if you already tried this but have you tried bleeding the RABS (rear abs valve)? There is a bleeder screw on there just like the calipers and wheel cylinders
I agree that the rear ABS is nice to have. I don't view it as necessary, but I have no reason not to keep it unless I'll have a stiffer brake pedal with it bypassed.
I've only had the truck for about a year, and I think that the master cylinder was replaced somewhat recently. Don't really think there's anything wrong with the master cylinder or booster.
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Posting Guru
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From: VA
That's correct. It only has rear ABS. I can lock the front brakes up if I hit them hard.
Yeah, not much happens in the first 3" of brake pedal travel. You can feel them start to grab, but its insignificant and hardly noticeable.
The rubber lines look old as dirt. I'll try to get some ordered. Even if its not the complete issue, they still need replacement.
Now the long travel can be caused by two things, ether improper actuator rod length, or ballooning rubber lines.
Based off of how you described it, in your first post, ("The brake pedal has about 3 inches of room where I can press down and all it'll do is turn on the brake lights. ") I was thinking the PO had improperly installed the brake booster. But, as I read in post 5 ("The brakes grip a little bit for the first about 3 inches, then they grip much better.") it sounds more like degraded rubber brake lines, that are ballooning on you.
Check the size and shape of your brake lines without any brake pressure, then have someone press hard on the brake(not to fast, don't what to blow the seals in the master), see if the line changes shape.
Even if they don't change size or shape, if they are over 6 years old, I would change em....
Based off of how you described it, in your first post, ("The brake pedal has about 3 inches of room where I can press down and all it'll do is turn on the brake lights. ") I was thinking the PO had improperly installed the brake booster. But, as I read in post 5 ("The brakes grip a little bit for the first about 3 inches, then they grip much better.") it sounds more like degraded rubber brake lines, that are ballooning on you.
Check the size and shape of your brake lines without any brake pressure, then have someone press hard on the brake(not to fast, don't what to blow the seals in the master), see if the line changes shape.
Even if they don't change size or shape, if they are over 6 years old, I would change em....
The rubber lines look old as dirt. I'll try to get some ordered. Even if its not the complete issue, they still need replacement.
