Not Sure
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Joined: Jun 2003
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Not Sure
Hello, I am new to the forum. Anyway, I currently own a 1991 Ford F-150. I bought it 1 1/2 years ago at the age of 16, as it was all I could afford. I expected better mileage, as I was informed the 302 motor which my truck is powered by would get around 15 mpg. I have been recieving 10/11 mpg, and it is really turning into a drain on my wallet. I have also spent over $4,000 dollars in repairs on the vehicle in the last 1 1/2 years, that is approaching what I paid in order to purchase it. I figure $4,000 is enough to pay off 1 1/2 years of a farely new diesel, and this is the way I want to go. After replacing the fuel pump, fuel tank, water pump, power steering pump, as well as many other repairs I have to say I have lost a little faith in Ford. I was looking into possibly buying a Dodge with a Cummins, that is until I read some things posted here and other forums. Even on some Dodge forums the owners said "Good engine, bad truck." My friend owns a Dodge with a Cummins, they pull a Gooseneck trailer cross country with 2 horses occasionally, their biggest complaint is the truck as a whole. They say the engine is wonderful however the truck is in constant need of repair. I don't really like the design of the Chevy's in the price range I'm looking into, and I have heard many bad things about them anyway. So this leads me back to Ford with an already shaky foundation. I know it is possible I purchased a lemon, or the previous owner didn't take care of the vehicle at all. But I was hoping some of you guys could restore my faith a bit, I want a diesel as they are big, safe, powerful, durable, and with a ford can carry 6 guys, all the baggage, and the four wheelers. But I'm worried that the problem may not be the motor (or at least I hope) and that the truck my fall apart around me as it has already with my current F-150. I am looking at a 7.3 litre motor, I know a friend with one and he has been very happy with it. However I have a cousin with a Cummins (not the same as the afformentioned friend with horse trailer) and his only complaint is Dodge's warranty service. I have never known anyone with a Duramax, and for this reason I am partially frightened away. Please let me know if this is just going to be another probelm truck and I should just go with a Ranger, or that it will be a wise investment. (Sorry for the long post with many conclusions only leading to more conclusions 
)
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Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,773
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From: Bonney Lake, WA
Not Sure
Welcome to the forum! If you're thinking about making the jump to a diesel truck, I think you're on the right track with a Ford. I was born into a Chevy family, and many of my previous vehicles have been GM, but I've been won over by Ford's track record of building a consistently durable truck. With anything you buy used, there's the potential for an unseen problem to arise, so regardless of the brand, expect that there will probably be some initial expense. If you're specifically thinking about a diesel, I'll give you a list of things to look for when inspecting a used rig. Do a lot of reading and learning before you start shopping for a truck. Being well informed is the best weapon you can take with you. Good luck.
(I'd love to take credit for this, but it was copied from a friend's website.)
Things To Look For When Buying A Used Power Stroke Diesel
Turbo:
You might take the air tube off the back of the air filter and look inside of it. If there is dirt build up, that is a very bad sign, so are the turbo fins looking sand blasted or bent. A little oily film is normal since the valve cover breather exits inside the tube.
Airbox:
Check the two bolts holding down the airbox lid. If they are plastic with a square recess, it is a recalled part. The recall is expired, but without the updated lid the risk of dirt infiltration is greater, the lid was updated with more supports and the updated bolts are metal with a straight slot. If it is the old style, you spend around $80 to update it.
Tranny:
If you buy a truck with an auto tranny, finding out if it's been maintained is essential, as the E4OD is an expensive transmission. Also, (if auto) seeing if the truck has an auxiliary transmission cooler would be worthwhile. For sticks, listen for clunking when shutting off or small vibration while operating. It could be an indication of a dual mass flywheel going out. Many have replaced them with single mass units.
Rear Gear Ratio:
4:10 will pull better, get slightly lower mpg’s and run a higher RPM compared to 3:55.
Coolant:
Ask the previous owner about the coolant - have they been adding FW16 or DCA4 to keep a proper SCA level? It is very important for stopping cavitation. You can get test strips to check the SCA level from NAPA, International, or Ford. I would test the current condition while looking over the truck, the SCA level should be between 1.5 and 3.0. Also, see if it has a block heater (it was an option on 97's).
Front end:
Check the front end for wear, or have an alignment shop check out the ball joints and steering linkage (tie rod ends). If they are shot, it is spendy (all four tie rods are around $400 just for parts, ball joint labor is also very spendy)
Oil:
The questions to ask are how often the oil was changed (at least every 5,000) and what kind of oil they used (diesel rated)? An oil analysis could tell you if there might be an engine problem or not.
Aftermarket stuff:
Seeing if the truck has got an aftermarket downpipe would be nice, a chip, or gauges (pyrometer, trans temp, etc.). Ask about any added items and who installed them.
Glow Plugs/Relay:
Find out if the glow plugs are in good working condition as well as the relay. Ask if either has been changed and when. You can check the glow plug resistance through the valve cover connector if needed, and the relay should have power to both large terminals on top when the key is turned on, and one of the terminals should go out before ~2 minutes.
Injector o-rings:
The injector O-rings have been known to be a problem. The new o-ring sets have a pink middle seal. If the truck has an o-ring problem, one of the signs can be a discoloration of the fuel in the filter bowl. There is a drain on the passenger side front of the filter bowl for draining water (the filter is also the water separator) and you can catch some of the drained fuel in a jar – it should be dingy yellow and not blue or dark.
Leaks and Drips:
You can check the valley between the heads of the V8 for moisture and/or fluid. It should be dry not wet. Most leaks will run through this valley and down the back of the motor dripping off by the tranny/engine coupling.
VIN number:
If you take the VIN to any dealer, they can tell you when it was built, when it went into service, and some of the work that might have been done on it. You can also run prospective VIN's through Carfax.com to see the title history.
Turbo:
You might take the air tube off the back of the air filter and look inside of it. If there is dirt build up, that is a very bad sign, so are the turbo fins looking sand blasted or bent. A little oily film is normal since the valve cover breather exits inside the tube.
Airbox:
Check the two bolts holding down the airbox lid. If they are plastic with a square recess, it is a recalled part. The recall is expired, but without the updated lid the risk of dirt infiltration is greater, the lid was updated with more supports and the updated bolts are metal with a straight slot. If it is the old style, you spend around $80 to update it.
Tranny:
If you buy a truck with an auto tranny, finding out if it's been maintained is essential, as the E4OD is an expensive transmission. Also, (if auto) seeing if the truck has an auxiliary transmission cooler would be worthwhile. For sticks, listen for clunking when shutting off or small vibration while operating. It could be an indication of a dual mass flywheel going out. Many have replaced them with single mass units.
Rear Gear Ratio:
4:10 will pull better, get slightly lower mpg’s and run a higher RPM compared to 3:55.
Coolant:
Ask the previous owner about the coolant - have they been adding FW16 or DCA4 to keep a proper SCA level? It is very important for stopping cavitation. You can get test strips to check the SCA level from NAPA, International, or Ford. I would test the current condition while looking over the truck, the SCA level should be between 1.5 and 3.0. Also, see if it has a block heater (it was an option on 97's).
Front end:
Check the front end for wear, or have an alignment shop check out the ball joints and steering linkage (tie rod ends). If they are shot, it is spendy (all four tie rods are around $400 just for parts, ball joint labor is also very spendy)
Oil:
The questions to ask are how often the oil was changed (at least every 5,000) and what kind of oil they used (diesel rated)? An oil analysis could tell you if there might be an engine problem or not.
Aftermarket stuff:
Seeing if the truck has got an aftermarket downpipe would be nice, a chip, or gauges (pyrometer, trans temp, etc.). Ask about any added items and who installed them.
Glow Plugs/Relay:
Find out if the glow plugs are in good working condition as well as the relay. Ask if either has been changed and when. You can check the glow plug resistance through the valve cover connector if needed, and the relay should have power to both large terminals on top when the key is turned on, and one of the terminals should go out before ~2 minutes.
Injector o-rings:
The injector O-rings have been known to be a problem. The new o-ring sets have a pink middle seal. If the truck has an o-ring problem, one of the signs can be a discoloration of the fuel in the filter bowl. There is a drain on the passenger side front of the filter bowl for draining water (the filter is also the water separator) and you can catch some of the drained fuel in a jar – it should be dingy yellow and not blue or dark.
Leaks and Drips:
You can check the valley between the heads of the V8 for moisture and/or fluid. It should be dry not wet. Most leaks will run through this valley and down the back of the motor dripping off by the tranny/engine coupling.
VIN number:
If you take the VIN to any dealer, they can tell you when it was built, when it went into service, and some of the work that might have been done on it. You can also run prospective VIN's through Carfax.com to see the title history.
