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Upgrading my '66s brakes to power I was wondering if it makes any difference or not installing the booster bracket as came standard on later model f100s vs the straight pushrod to the pedal. Does the Booster bracket's fulcrum setup mean less foot pressure to actuate the brakes? Or because it's pretty much a straight shot on the '66 is the Booster Bracket largely un-necessary.
And if a straight rod setup is used, what did you use to seal the hole in the firewall around the rod?
I initially tried installing mine without the bracket and it would not work, I can't remember why right now but it wasn't even close, went back to the junk yard and found a bracket, I used the rubber boot from the donor truck to seal the hole. If you're in Atlanta, I might be near by, you can come take a look, pm me.
When I went from manual to power, I used a set of orginial 66 brackets and bought a booster/mc combo from Bumper-2-Bumper. It wasnt cheap, especially with no core.
The boot that came with the unit was way to short to go from the booster to the firewall. I used a piece of pipe insulation from Lowes to make up the difference.
Use the later mechanical booster bracket. Not the two piece POS found on some trucks. Add a new seal from a Mustang (like the one in the bottom picture), 4 each 1 inch spacers between the booster bracket and firewall, and swap in the wide brake pedal arm from a later truck. You will need a prop valve if you have disks on the front. This is a bolt in deal. Then rig up a mechanical stoplight switch and your done. Look in here for brake light mount posts from Blackwaterforge. Benefit of this is 100% Ford stuff and available in the junk yard or NAPA. IMHO.
Spyder, When I did mine I unbolted everything from the donor and installed it on my 66. The hole in the blade needs to be moved (by drilling a new one) 1 1/8" down. I removed the clutch pedal and retained the original brake pedal.
I don'r know anything about Williams recommendation but he has been around the block for a while also.