Manual Drum to Power Disc Problem
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Manual Drum to Power Disc Problem
I am in the middle of a conversion on my 1966. Everything went fine with the spindles and calipers, etc.
Until I got to the brake booster. The old master cylinder bolted in. The new booster has studs and the holes don't line up. I have searched the threads and can't find any info as to what to do now. I could not find a booster from a donor truck. Is there a bracket that I need to fabricate or what?? Somebody HELP!
Until I got to the brake booster. The old master cylinder bolted in. The new booster has studs and the holes don't line up. I have searched the threads and can't find any info as to what to do now. I could not find a booster from a donor truck. Is there a bracket that I need to fabricate or what?? Somebody HELP!
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,613
Likes: 6
From: Coal country
What kind of booster did you get - that is, what did you use as the donor vehicle?
There is a bracket used on most '73 and later which elevates the booster up away from the valve covers of a V-8 engine. It has a lever action pushrod system.
I am not sure about all the '72 and earlier variations. Although power brakes were available, the booster was sometimes actuated by a bracket mounted lever, and sometimes by a direct pushrod.
I seem to think you will need the bracket, which you can get from any '73 - '79 truck. I recommend, though, look for the type which uses a flat bar rather than a round rod btween the brake pedal and the booster. It will be easier to locate the brake pedal to the proper height by drilling a hole in the flat bar. If you get the rod type, you'll need to do some cutting and re-threading.
Hope this helps, and good luck!
There is a bracket used on most '73 and later which elevates the booster up away from the valve covers of a V-8 engine. It has a lever action pushrod system.
I am not sure about all the '72 and earlier variations. Although power brakes were available, the booster was sometimes actuated by a bracket mounted lever, and sometimes by a direct pushrod.
I seem to think you will need the bracket, which you can get from any '73 - '79 truck. I recommend, though, look for the type which uses a flat bar rather than a round rod btween the brake pedal and the booster. It will be easier to locate the brake pedal to the proper height by drilling a hole in the flat bar. If you get the rod type, you'll need to do some cutting and re-threading.
Hope this helps, and good luck!
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
As Banjo indicated, sounds like you need the bracket, make sure it includes the actuating arm. The bracket extends the booster away from the firewall approx. 5". It is mounted to the firewall by 4 bolts, and the booster studs are inserted in the holes in the bracket and secured with 4 nuts.
I used spacers between the bracket and firewall, rather than drill or cut booster or pedal rod. Used 1/2" aluminum square stock by cutting two pieces approx. 2 1/2", 1 for each side of the backet, then drilled holes for the bolts. If considering this method, suggest using bracket as templet to mark the holes in alum stock for drilling. Dont recall if had to use longer bolts to make up for the 1/2" space, suggest pick them up just in case.
dave
I used spacers between the bracket and firewall, rather than drill or cut booster or pedal rod. Used 1/2" aluminum square stock by cutting two pieces approx. 2 1/2", 1 for each side of the backet, then drilled holes for the bolts. If considering this method, suggest using bracket as templet to mark the holes in alum stock for drilling. Dont recall if had to use longer bolts to make up for the 1/2" space, suggest pick them up just in case.
dave
Last edited by daveengelson; Oct 12, 2006 at 04:23 PM.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,111
Likes: 0
From: Turlock CA
I just did the same conversion drums to power disc. I had to make a 1/2" spacer as stated by dave. My booster had two studs facing forward to mount the master cylinder and it used bolts to mount to the firewall. The lever assembly was part of my booster from the donor and as stated above it puts the booster away from the firewall and up from the engine.
This is the best upgrade I have ever done. I recently towed a car on a dolly over a pass and the brakes worked great...
This is the best upgrade I have ever done. I recently towed a car on a dolly over a pass and the brakes worked great...
