well after searching it seems like this is a general thread all over the web with varius fixes. Yesterday I started my truck early in the morning for work. started fine, with white smoke (it was cold around 20 degrees and not plugged in) I was letting it idle while i put some things in the bed and after aobut a minute it just shut off. tried to start it again but it sounded like it would shut off itself as soon as it would try to start. The check engine lights up when im cranking but only while the engine is cranking. still wont start today. tried to start it with the ICP umplugged but it does the same.
Apparently, I got a scangauge2 but it won't read any codes. I don't think it can from me searching on the web. it will give me the reading for the IPR (24% while cranking) and the ICP will start building pressure as soon as i start cranking it ( 500-1500+ psi)The tach shows RPMs as well as the gauge while i crank from 200-400 rpms
I have no idea where to start to try and fix this and cant just start replacing parts at the moment. Searching on google and this forum it always comes to something different being the cause. IPR valve or CPS... I'm trying to get a code reader that can read the codes but until then i'm asking for help here. I did find it interesting that with the scangauge has a TPS option and it shows 0 the whole time i'm cranking the truck, even when i push the pedal, will this cause a no start? how do you check the TPS? I guess i'm hoping it's something simple since the truck is outside and can't get it inside it's cold in CO
Thanks in advance

 

Are you getting a WTS light?

Look at fuse 22. It is on the fuel heater circuit which can short out and also shut down the PCM, since they are on the same circuit. Most people unplug the fuel heater since they are known to short out.

Remove the plug in the top of your HPOP and verify that the oil is 1inch or so from the top.

 

Yes I have a wts light, it smokes when I crank it and the fuse is good. I forgot to mentioned I checked the glow , relay and the furl heater. I was going to take the ipr off and clean it see if that helped but don't know if that's a good place to start. I changed the oil about 2k miles ago and I tried to check the level of the hppo but the bolt won't turn it started to strip so I stopped

 

Mine did the same thing and I think that I ended up cutting a slot into it and using a screwdriver, or using a punch to turn it. I can't recall. I replaced it with an off the shelf grade 8 bolt. No issues again with that.

What is your fuel pressure while cranking?

 

I had this problem on my 96 years ago and cut a grove across the top of the bolt. Then I use a screw driver and lay it at a angle to the grove and tap with a hammer. I've never replaced it, works fine.

 

What is your fuel pressure while cranking?

Im gonna go with Glovemeister on this one. You need to have about 50 psi at the shrader valve on the bowl.

Most code readers don't work on our trucks. The best thing to use if you have access to it is either the "red brick" from snap on or if you know anybody with AE that can check for you. I had a similar problem where mine shut off while driving. I ended up replacing the cps, ipr, gp's, and batteries. Disconnnected gpr, gave her a few shots of either while the wife cranked, got her back to life. She still needs a gpr but if its plugged in, she will fire right up.