But Jim, be sure you jumped the proper relay. Does it look like this in the truck? Did you get a good arc when you jumped the posts?

 

It looked similar where the unit in the foreground is concerned. Didn't have the one behind it tho.....the one with three posts. I don't have that.

I would say that maybe I "didn't" get a good arc! I touched something that I didn't mean to touch, a hot post and a metal ground, and got a great arc. But when I touched those two, it was just enough to let me know they were arcing.
What does that mean? I guess I should get an ACTUAL picture of it, yes?

I'll do that and post it later. But your picture does a good enough job, actually.

I'm sick of working on that truck....although nothing really serious, it's just a pain in the elbow, if you know what I mean.

Thanks.

 

Has anyone seen or used this:
Ford Diesel Glow Plug Relay Manual Controller Solenoid | eBay

or this one-----same seller....

eBay Guides - Ford diesel glow plug relay trouble shooting

 

Hey Jim, where are you located?

 

Deming, NM. Why? You gonna come over and do it for me ?

 

If I was at my Rodeo, NM place I would be on my way. Maybe we have someone from that area that can come by and give you a hand.

 

With those moderate temps it would start if the GP weren't working. You got something else going on. You say you're getting smoke....is it white? If so it's getting fuel and it's oxygen, just no fire. Check your valve cover harness connectors on the outside and the condition of the wires themselves. Unless found loose and no change after pushing it back in, start popping the valve covers off to check the cover connectors on the inside. If they look next logical step would be to bone up on injector o-ring changes. I would change the valve cover gasket, o-rings glow plugs and under cover harness in one fell swoop. Not expensive, not difficult. Plenty posts on here to help. Just takes some time and a slow pace. BTW glow plugs sit next to each injector.

 

It's 21 degrees out this morning and it bright and sunny at 7:30. It has always needed the glow plugs on cold mornings.

This truck has only 58k on it. One wouldn't think it needs all that work. Yes, anything electrical has to be considered, but beyond that, it isn't something that I would consider as being the problem. But............I don't know for sure.

I've peen preaching FORD for years where trucks are concerned and not even allowing my friends on my property in other brands , but maybe I'm gonna have to "repent" .

I may just bite the bullet and take it to the shop!

Thanks for all the info, folks.

 

Jim, did you look to see if you have the block heater cord we talked about earlier? I know how cold it can get in your neck-of-the woods, this problem needs to be fixed. Before you take it to a shop, I would suggest this. Go to NAPA and buy a GPR 109 and replace the glow plug relay. I know it is throwing parts at the truck (it is a relatively cheap part at $26.29 and they have it at the Deming, NM warehouse), but if the GPR works the truck will start even with a few glow plugs not working. You said (I think) once warm the truck starts easily, so I am relatively certain everything else is fine. When you try to start your truck when it is cold, how long do you wait before trying to start it? The "Wait to Start" light is just an idiot light, the glow plugs come on for about two minutes at temperatures down around 20 degrees.

NAPA
Deming, NM 88030
(575) 546 - 2696

 

It hasn't gotten warm here recently, so I don't know . Supposed to get up to 60 today. I'm about out of patience with it, actually, but if that relay would do the trick, that wouldn't be too bad, I guess.

I usually leave it on "plenty long" in order to give the plugs time to warm up, so I don't think the wait time is an issue.

 

I can't say the relay would do the trick for certain (I could if I was there with a DMM), but from what you have said it certainly points at the GPR being bad. If you jumped it, as we talked earlier (across the large posts on the relay). Why not give that a try again? Turn the key on (key on-engine off) like you would if you were waiting for the glow plus to heat up. Then jump the two large posts on the glow plug relay for at least a minute. Then get in and try to start. Look in your PM's I sent you my phone number if you want to talk about the problem. Don't run your batteries down trying to start it...if you get the battery voltage below about 10.5 v it will not start no matter what.

 

You asked yesterday whether I got a good arc when I touched those two posts together. I replied that it was just enough to see them sparking. What what you getting at? Could a bad relay reduce the amount of voltage from the "in" to the "out" posts? I'm not sure what the relay does. Thanks.

 

The relay is what allows the battery voltage to go to the glowplugs. When you turn the key to the KOEO position, a signal is sent to the GPR. Inside a contact is made which allows the big post connected to the batteries to connect to the other side big post which them feeds all the GP's. If you jump the posts on the GPR for about a minute (being sure that you are in fact jumping the GPR) you are manually doing what should be happening inside the relay (closing the circuit between the batteries and the GP's). The GPR's are notorious for giving up the ghost...there is a lot of amperage running through the GPR and the contacts fail inside. About a 1000 watts of power runs through the GPR when it closes contact inside. When you turn the key to the KOEO position, if the GPR is working correctly, you should hear a loud click when the internal contacts make. Also, you can look at your interior light (leave the door open), when you turn the key to KOEO the light should dim when the GPR makes contact. If it doesn't dim, the GPR isn't working.

In diagnosis of hard start/no start the manual immediately starts you checking the GPR...tells you something. Without it working, you might start it. More than likely it isn't going to start, you put added load to batteries, you damage starters.

 

Thanks, Neal. I fingered the relay did something like that. The light dim thing sure makes it easy, eh? When I "jumped" it yesterday, it didn't seem like it was getting that much spark across the posts. Anyway, it didn't help, so maybe the relay isn't bad. I'm gonna check some other wiring connections as someone suggested.

BTW, I can't get the relay from NAPA until Tuesday, so I checked other parts stores here in deming. What a difference in prices!! $26, $58, $64, and $72.
What in the world is the difference............other than brand?

BTW, I haven't yet found any cord to an engine block heater. Gotta find the oil filter location and take a better look. Would an external, portable heater work temporarily, just to get the sucker started?? Just wondering.

Thanks again for all your help.

 

The filter is on the drivers side near the rear of the engine (standing at the back corner of the hood, look through the opening under the master cylinder...you should see the filter). Then slide under the truck and look up at the filter and you should see the cord. The cord generally runs up to the front of the vehicle and can be stuffed up into the bumper area. An external heater will work to warm up the engine, but you need to tarp it up to hold the heat in...not worth your effort in this case. Better to find the block heater cord and get it plugged in for about three or four hours.

Focus on the relay, you have to eliminate it first...it is the most likely culprit and it is easy for you to fix. Do you have a multimeter? If so, check your battery voltage and charge them up if they are low. Without proper voltage, you are chasing ghosts. These trucks draw huge amperage at start up when cold, if the batteries are weak or have been run down in attempting to start, it WILL NOT START.

On the various prices, it can be no difference up to dramatic differences. As an example, if you call NAPA and tell them the make and model of your truck they will say it takes a GPR 110 which runs over $100. For $50 you could buy a Stancor relay and it will likely last for many, many years.