Isolating a cooling issue...
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Thanks for all the advice folks, i will get a temp gauge and plumb that in before going any further -- i really hope it's not the rad, those things cost a ton.
any advice on a good temp gauge to get? A reasonably priced supplier? What is that reducer bushing to fit the plug at the back of the head - a piece of metal with threads on the inside and outside?
any advice on a good temp gauge to get? A reasonably priced supplier? What is that reducer bushing to fit the plug at the back of the head - a piece of metal with threads on the inside and outside?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Western Mass
I'm running a VDO electric gauge on mine, and I ordered them online, can't remember the price but reasonable in my mind. Others have had good luck with several other brands, I want to say autometer comes to mind? Lots of people go with mechanical gauges, I like electric ones as its easier to just run a wire and quick to disconnect and reconnect if you have to fiddle with the gauge.
You're exactly right about the reducer bushing. Depending on the sender you use, and the port you screw it in, you may not need a bushing. Some of the kits you can get will come with various bushings you may or may not need. If not, just pick one up from the local or big box hardware store of your choice. The port in the back is 1/2" NPT, the ones near the front are smaller, I just don't know the sizes off the top of my head. Senders are available in difference sizes, or just get 1/8" NPT and the right bushing.
You're exactly right about the reducer bushing. Depending on the sender you use, and the port you screw it in, you may not need a bushing. Some of the kits you can get will come with various bushings you may or may not need. If not, just pick one up from the local or big box hardware store of your choice. The port in the back is 1/2" NPT, the ones near the front are smaller, I just don't know the sizes off the top of my head. Senders are available in difference sizes, or just get 1/8" NPT and the right bushing.
Postmaster
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as for the cost of the radiator, i feel your pain. i've had to replace mine twice in just over 2 years. original was corroded and leaked, second one was aluminum with plastic tanks and blew a seam when the head gasket went, new one is all aluminum and had better last!
for gages, i've had poor results with sunpro electric gages, though their mechanical ones seem to be ok. i have an autometer electric temp gage on mine, i think it was somewhere around $50, and it works well
for port sizes, the ports on the head are 1/2 NPT, the port on the front of the block were the factory temp gage connects is 3/8 NPT. most gages come with the required reducer bushings, but if not they're readily available from your hardware store or parts store
for gages, i've had poor results with sunpro electric gages, though their mechanical ones seem to be ok. i have an autometer electric temp gage on mine, i think it was somewhere around $50, and it works well
for port sizes, the ports on the head are 1/2 NPT, the port on the front of the block were the factory temp gage connects is 3/8 NPT. most gages come with the required reducer bushings, but if not they're readily available from your hardware store or parts store
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So i have yet to pick up a real gauge, as my local canadian Lordco quoted me $100+tax for the cheapest mechanical device, and the decent ones are $150. I call a ripoff. Will order one online i think.
I did, however, set out on a mission to replicate the condition with my temp gun today.
Of course she did not overheat, not on the freeway, not in town. I was on the road for 3 hours and no problems. I put the temp gun on the block where the sensor attached -- 194F. On the head where the overheat one is -- 194F. On the thermostat housing-- 188F. On the top tank of rad 175F. That is with the factory gauge at "O" of "NORMAL". This was the temp after a long idle. This was the temp after 10 min at freeway speed.
Of course i will still get a real gauge and keep a close eye, but i can't help but wonder if i managed to scare it into submission...
I did, however, set out on a mission to replicate the condition with my temp gun today.
Of course she did not overheat, not on the freeway, not in town. I was on the road for 3 hours and no problems. I put the temp gun on the block where the sensor attached -- 194F. On the head where the overheat one is -- 194F. On the thermostat housing-- 188F. On the top tank of rad 175F. That is with the factory gauge at "O" of "NORMAL". This was the temp after a long idle. This was the temp after 10 min at freeway speed.
Of course i will still get a real gauge and keep a close eye, but i can't help but wonder if i managed to scare it into submission...
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JB-1
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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