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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

CRT HEI Install

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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 12:02 PM
  #16  
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I'm guessing that is a 500cfm Holley 2bbl. Not a bad carb, but with the large venturis they do not have a very snappy throttle response.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 12:35 PM
  #17  
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I believe the one on the truck now is a 350cfm
 
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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 01:34 PM
  #18  
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Hmmm, it should run okay with that. Granted it's not a 4bbl, but around town it should run fine. How often to you flat foot it and need more?
 
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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 01:54 PM
  #19  
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I always seem to have the need to pump more air (flat foot it)
 
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 04:22 PM
  #20  
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Here's a quick video I put together with the engine running;


http://s937.beta.photobucket.com/use...5ad18.mp4.html



I added the little part at the end for bumping the motor, because some people don't know where to connect the remote starter switch, and it is a real simple procedure - so hope this takes the guess work out of how to bump the motor.

What do you guys/gals think of how the motor sounds?
 
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 04:39 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 72Truckin
Here's a quick video I put together with the engine running;


20130219_162127_zps2db5ad18.mp4 Video by rumble_bucket | Photobucket



I added the little part at the end for bumping the motor, because some people don't know where to connect the remote starter switch, and it is a real simple procedure - so hope this takes the guess work out of how to bump the motor.

What do you guys/gals think of how the motor sounds?
I watched the video, good deal, she is running nice and smooth and looks like crisp throttle response. You seemed unsure about the wiring, saying you wired it up to the original power source and weren't sure if that was right. What you can do is check the voltage while its running and see what you have. If you have 8 or 9 volts then you know you're getting the power meant for a points style ignition. If that is the case you should re-wire it to a relay, and let the 8 volt ignition wire be used to trigger the relay, and then the relay can pull 12 volts off the battery and provide full power to the HEI. I think it pulls more amps than stock ignition so to avoid problems it would usually be handled by a relay.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 04:47 PM
  #22  
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What type of relay would I need to get?
 
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 05:11 PM
  #23  
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The tools needed for me are as follows;

- 1/2" box wrench: to remove the distributor hold-down bracket
(box wrench also used to disconnect battery cables)

- Flat head screwdriver: to unclip old and new distributor caps

- 8mm wrench to remove connections from stock coil

- Spark plug gap tool: to re-gap the plugs after installing the new HEI dizzy

- Wire Stripper: to connect power from new distributor to power source

- Remote Starter Switch: to find TDC (by bumping motor until you feel whoosh on your thumb lol)

- Pen style telescoping magnet: in case the oil pump shaft decides to come out with the distributor

.... and last but not least PATIENCE.... it comes in handy
 
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 05:30 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 72Truckin
What type of relay would I need to get?
Something like this:

1 Each 5 Pin 12V DC 40A No Automotive Car Relay Spda JD1914 30A with Harness | eBay

If you need help wiring it up I can find a link explaining what each pin does, so that you know where to connect it to.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 08:14 AM
  #25  
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Here is wiring layout for typical 5 pin relay:


Take your current coil wire and hook to #85, take #86 to ground
Take 12v from battery to #30 and take #87 to your new distributor.

Viola' you're done.


I was at Summit racing last week and bought a relay and plug for $5.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 01:09 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Freightrain
Here is wiring layout for typical 5 pin relay:


Take your current coil wire and hook to #85, take #86 to ground
Take 12v from battery to #30 and take #87 to your new distributor.

Viola' you're done.


I was at Summit racing last week and bought a relay and plug for $5.
Freightrain, I got the 5-pin, made all the proper connections... went to start the truck and the truck will not even crank.

I removed the 5-pin set-up, put everything back to how it was before, and still no juice.

Checked fuses and all fuses in the cab are fine, checked one in-line fuse near the starter relay and that is good.

Battery is good, as it was starting and running the truck the day before I did the 5-pin installation.

Think the 5-pin install could have blown the starter relay on the sidewall?

Any ideas what might have happened?
 
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 03:08 PM
  #27  
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Ok, so it won't even crank when you turn the key? Does everything else in the cab work?

Have you checked your neutral safety switch? Try holding the shifter up into Park farther and turn the key. Typically that will show if the switch is out of adjustment.

Can you jump the starter soleniod on the inner fender and get truck to crank?
 
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 11:16 PM
  #28  
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Freight - I found out the issue = Battery was no longer holding a charge.

I got a second verification of the bad battery, by taking the battery to PepBoys, and the first check showed the battery was good, but with a low charge, and it did take a charge, but then slowly showed a drain in volts.

Must have had a bad cell, some corrosion or something.

Holy Moly - This truck now starts up super fast... just about no need to even pump the gas pedal first!

The battery I chose is the Bosch 78 DT (Dual Terminal) - not for the dual terminal, but because it has 850CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) and a whopping 1000 CA (Cranking Amps)

Bosch Premium Performance Battery Group Size 7T | Product Details | Pep Boys

There was a printable $25 off coupon for a $100 or more purchase, which reduced the price to just $88 total out the door.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 11:23 PM
  #29  
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I enjoy working on this truck so much, It doesn't even hurt when I have to buy a replacement part
 
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 11:28 PM
  #30  
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Just to get this out of my system - I almost started to panic when the truck didn't start. So many scenarios for all types of components that could have gone bad.

I almost started to think about changing out the starter relay, possible bad coil from too much voltage or something going to the dizzy - so glad a stepped back, took a breath, then went at it with a clear head.

Let my headache be a lesson to others - please do not over-complicate any engine issues.
 
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